Build Chicago builds a 40

[chicago]

Man that looks great

Thanks Brother!
Im pretty happy with how it came out over all. The wind tried to **** me today though. This AM when I was prepping everything, winds were totally CALM. I had just started on the primer coat and the wind kicked up. Problem is, with the garage door OPEN, the visqueen blows in and threatens to stick to the fresh paint. I ended up having to SHUT the garage door.
Im glad I wore a dual filter mask for this whole process.

 

[jefishing]

Looks great congrats man

 

[gothodgie]

looks sweet... smurfasourusrex...

 

[LittleMan]

Looks good man. I'm kinda worried though - what are WE supposed to do for entertainment when you're done with this build???

 

[waiting for time]

Nice work Keith, came out great.
What is your ETA on finishing?

 

[chicago]

looks sweet... smurfasourusrex...

She DID get a new name! After paint was on, the wife and I came up with a name. Matilda...Matti for short. The meaning is "powerful Battler". Had to be a female name for when I get MAD at it, and some cutsie lil girl name just doesnt fit. Sorry man...Nothing SMURF related.

Looks good man. I'm kinda worried though - what are WE supposed to do for entertainment when you're done with this build???

LOL...there'll be pleanty more of this build after a while. Need to get all the gear organized, finish the half doors...crap like that. Not to mention....the dreaded BUGS that need to be worked out. Aside from that....its YOUR turn. Waiting for time has a great build in the 40's section.. His has got more bitchin sheet metal work. LOTS of sheet metal work.

Nice work Keith, came out great.
What is your ETA on finishing?

Cant say for sure. Itll depend on the wiring. I have to go home to Chicago this week. Im gonna miss my end of August run time for sure, but hoping sometime in Sept. to be behind the wheel.. That'll be FUNDS dependent too. The exhaust is gonna be about 450 bills. Still gotta get the wiring harness too...

 

[srgould41]

Commenting on your front drive shaft clearance. I can't believe you have so much room! I have a 700R4 and AA adapter. I can't even get a finger between my DC at the u-joint and the pan and that was after hammering the pan for clearance. What is your minimum gap when you cycle the front suspension?


By the way, just caught up reading your build. It took me 2 days Very nice work!

 

[waiting for time]

Waiting for time has a great build in the 40's section.. His has got more bitchin sheet metal work. LOTS of sheet metal work.

I just added something mechanical, needed a change.
When your done are you going to yank my chain like I did yours?

Hmmmm........... I might tune down for the rest of your build.

Cant say for sure. Itll depend on the wiring. I have to go home to Chicago this week. Im gonna miss my end of August run time for sure, but hoping sometime in Sept. to be behind the wheel.. That'll be FUNDS dependent too. The exhaust is gonna be about 450 bills. Still gotta get the wiring harness too...

I feel your pain on the funding site, there is always something that needs to be paid other then for my cruiser. Thats why I love the sheet metal, you can fab things up from not to expensive steel.

See, your cheapness is starting to rub off.....

 

[waiting for time]

Keith,
What is the distance between the rear hoop of your cage where it meets the tub and how far is it from the rear of the tub?
I am working on the support from underneath while I can still get to it and would like to know where to put my support plate.
Thanks.

 

[chicago]

Commenting on your front drive shaft clearance. I can't believe you have so much room! I have a 700R4 and AA adapter. I can't even get a finger between my DC at the u-joint and the pan and that was after hammering the pan for clearance. What is your minimum gap when you cycle the front suspension?

By the way, just caught up reading your build. It took me 2 days Very nice work!

Thanks for commenting on that!
I haven't had the opportunity to flex the suspension yet, so I donno how it changes. Like I said though, I could have a single joint put on in lieu of the dc.
Do you have any issues w/ yours hitting as it is? As I am to understand, the DS runs really close regardless. It should be okay, but don't wanna find out the hard way.
Thanks for the props. It's been a journey. :$

 

[chicago]

Keith,
What is the distance between the rear hoop of your cage where it meets the tub and how far is it from the rear of the tub?
I am working on the support from underneath while I can still get to it and would like to know where to put my support plate.
Thanks.

Donno right now man, but I'm gonna have to get that dimension for you when I get the cage back in. It an inch or two though.

 

[CruisinFJ60]

I like the blue

 

[serenity]

That paint wins. I dig it.

 

[chicago]

I like the blue

That paint wins. I dig it.

Thanks Gents. Im diggin the Blue. More important...the wife likes the blue.
Now I just gotta get everything back together.

 

[srgould41]

I know the journey. I took about 18 months to get mine on the road again and I have a long ways to go yet before I finish off my wish list. Lots of projects waiting for money

I am using a Spicer 1310 ujoint and flange at the t-case. It didn't clear the trans pan lip and side of the pan. I had to grind most of the lip off that area and use a low profile fastener in the corner hole. I also tapped the pan in until it hit the valve body. I had to clearance the front corner of the pan as well because when I cycled the suspension I only had about an 1/8" of room. I didn't want to take a chance so I made some more room with a hammer.
I am guessing your split case makes a big difference in clearance.

I doubt I would have been able to use a DC since those are a little bigger. Your set up seems to work better. Do you think you need the DC in front? Mine has a really long front shaft. Even with a spring over the angle would be fine. If I were to change anything I would use a 2 piece shaft in front and get rid of the slot I had to make in the skid plate for the shaft.

Thanks for commenting on that!
I haven't had the opportunity to flex the suspension yet, so I donno how it changes. Like I said though, I could have a single joint put on in lieu of the dc.
Do you have any issues w/ yours hitting as it is? As I am to understand, the DS runs really close regardless. It should be okay, but don't wanna find out the hard way.
Thanks for the props. It's been a journey. :$

 

[rusty_tlc]

Thanks Gents. Im diggin the Blue. More important...the wife likes the blue.
Now I just gotta get everything back together.

And if Momma aint happy nobody aint happy.

 

[chicago]

I know the journey. I took about 18 months to get mine on the road again and I have a long ways to go yet before I finish off my wish list. Lots of projects waiting for money

I am using a Spicer 1310 ujoint and flange at the t-case. It didn't clear the trans pan lip and side of the pan. I had to grind most of the lip off that area and use a low profile fastener in the corner hole. I also tapped the pan in until it hit the valve body. I had to clearance the front corner of the pan as well because when I cycled the suspension I only had about an 1/8" of room. I didn't want to take a chance so I made some more room with a hammer.
I am guessing your split case makes a big difference in clearance.

I doubt I would have been able to use a DC since those are a little bigger. Your set up seems to work better. Do you think you need the DC in front? Mine has a really long front shaft. Even with a spring over the angle would be fine. If I were to change anything I would use a 2 piece shaft in front and get rid of the slot I had to make in the skid plate for the shaft.

No, didn't really NEED the DC joint, but my concern was my wife would like to toole around inthis on occasion and I'd be concerned w/ vibes while she's driving. Not that she would be in 4wd, but.... The what If thing always pops in my mind.
However... Keeping the pan safe is more important over all. I'll flex it out tonight and see what happens. Mine too are the spicer joints. It a nicely built drive shaft. I have it, I've already paid for it and I'd like to avoid paying more to put a single on. But. If I do, then I do.

 

[chicago]

Some odds and ends tied up. Both the fuel and trans lines are run and wrapped with spiral wrap.
One major thing I got figured was getting the trans temp sensor and coolant temp sensor mounted. This was FAAAAAAR easier than I thought.
For the coolant...I picked up an adapter from autometer. Its metric to NPT. There are TWO sensors lengths I actually needed BOTH (though I didnt realize it) The longer one I used for the coolant temp and the shortie for the trans. I did have to drill out the coolant adapter to get the longer sensor through to the coolant. For the trans temp sensor russle makes an inline fitting for use with the AN fittings that has a threaded port off the side. That one I used the short sensor cuz it wont impede the flow AT ALL.

 

[chicago]

Another thing I did was flex the PS of the rig and see how close the shaft is to the trans pan at full stuff. The CLOSEST it gets at ANY POINT is 3/8 in. Still a concern, but...I think Im gonna run it and see. I SHOULD be good. O dont think itll change much even under load???

Anyone have any thoughts otherwise?

 

[locrwln1]

Everything is looking great. Nice job on the paint. Looking forward to the finished product. I keep meaning to swing by, but either you are busy or I am.

Jack