Chasing #6 Misfire; An Adventure More Difficult Than Twas Foreseen (93 FZJ80)
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BakerFJ
Benny Bodangus
- Thread starter
- #22
Tested the O2 resistances. Spec is 5-6.5 ohms. The driver side tested 0L and the passenger side tested 5.8 ohms. This would explain my issues. Going to be on vacation soon so I'll hold off on buying parts till after, O2 sensors and wiring harness and I should be gucci. I suppose I'll test the engine coolant sensor too. Will post an update with the results from that soon. Im excited to have decent gas mileage!
BakerFJ
Benny Bodangus
- Thread starter
- #24
Replaced the O2 sensors, runs a ton better, but still not right. Runs a tad rough still. The only things left I can think of it being is the wiring harness, coolant sensor, or valve adjustment. The parts of my wiring harness that are a tad exposed don't touch anything, so I don't imagine they would cause a problem. And a valve adjustment is a headache but I'll do it if I have to. Is there a way to tell the valves are out of adjustment without opening the valve cover? A door opened for me and I will be driving my Land Cruiser to Pennsylvania at the end of the month. Time to get crackin. Been moochin the two car life for too long. This'll be a good kick in the butt to finish my loose ends on the good ol' rig.
Swap the ECT sensor.
Cheap.
Takes 5 minutes.
Inspect it's connector/wiring.
Cheap.
Takes 5 minutes.
Inspect it's connector/wiring.
BakerFJ
Benny Bodangus
- Thread starter
- #28
Got the small crack in the fuel tank repaired and put the tank back in this morning. Dont need to only be half full now
Replaced the ECT as well today, the old one had wayy too high of resistance. this smoothed out the idle a bit but still is misfiring on #6. it's getting spark, fuel injector resistance tested about 14.3 Ohms, (FSM says 13.4-14.2) I figure this is O.K.. voltage to the injector from the harness is 14V, good. Found that the #6 injector wires were melted open where the joint to the harness is, got them pulled out as far as the exposed portion was and taped them off, thinking that must have been the problem. It wasn't. Runs just as bad as it was.
I tested fuel pressure weeks ago and it was also good. also checked to make sure I didn't have any injector connectors swapped, and They're all in the right spot; brown grey brown grey etc.
When measureing exhaust manifold temps, #6 was also significantly cooler than the rest. sitting about 260-270F whereas all the others are 330+F
Also to note, went to redo the ignition timing after I put the new ECT in and when I jumped the diagnostic port while running for base timing, rather than just flashing, it was flashing code 24. which is weird because it wasn't doing that yesterday, and shouldn't. But the old ecu I had did do the same thing until I swapped in a different one. What I'm thinking is either wiring or the #6 (new) fuel injector is bad. Which would suck because I just did the whole intake menifold and fuel injectors cleaned and flow matched. except the #6 was new to replace the old #6 which was tested bad by the injector shop I sent it to. should've sent the new injector with but whatever. *might* try to pull the fuel rail tomorrow while at work and see if I can monitor the spray pattern.
Might also further pull apart the harness to inspect, although the junction was the only spot I see that got hot. all the wires towards the rear of the engine are fine. also, the harness is ass to pull apart.
Tomorrow I will most likely start by checking over all the electrical outputs at the ECU. Fun times.
FFFFFFFFFFFFf
13 days to figure this out.
things left to do: grease u joints, rear brakes, repack rear bearings, add moly grease to knuckles, oil change
Replaced the ECT as well today, the old one had wayy too high of resistance. this smoothed out the idle a bit but still is misfiring on #6. it's getting spark, fuel injector resistance tested about 14.3 Ohms, (FSM says 13.4-14.2) I figure this is O.K.. voltage to the injector from the harness is 14V, good. Found that the #6 injector wires were melted open where the joint to the harness is, got them pulled out as far as the exposed portion was and taped them off, thinking that must have been the problem. It wasn't. Runs just as bad as it was.
I tested fuel pressure weeks ago and it was also good. also checked to make sure I didn't have any injector connectors swapped, and They're all in the right spot; brown grey brown grey etc.
When measureing exhaust manifold temps, #6 was also significantly cooler than the rest. sitting about 260-270F whereas all the others are 330+F
Also to note, went to redo the ignition timing after I put the new ECT in and when I jumped the diagnostic port while running for base timing, rather than just flashing, it was flashing code 24. which is weird because it wasn't doing that yesterday, and shouldn't. But the old ecu I had did do the same thing until I swapped in a different one. What I'm thinking is either wiring or the #6 (new) fuel injector is bad. Which would suck because I just did the whole intake menifold and fuel injectors cleaned and flow matched. except the #6 was new to replace the old #6 which was tested bad by the injector shop I sent it to. should've sent the new injector with but whatever. *might* try to pull the fuel rail tomorrow while at work and see if I can monitor the spray pattern.
Might also further pull apart the harness to inspect, although the junction was the only spot I see that got hot. all the wires towards the rear of the engine are fine. also, the harness is ass to pull apart.
Tomorrow I will most likely start by checking over all the electrical outputs at the ECU. Fun times.
FFFFFFFFFFFFf
13 days to figure this out. things left to do: grease u joints, rear brakes, repack rear bearings, add moly grease to knuckles, oil change
If it was me I would measure valve lash
@BakerFJ I saw it noted that you checked compression on #6. I didn’t see you mention HG replacement (sorry if I missed it).
FWIW - When mine HG went, one the first signs was rough running and #6 misfire.
FWIW - When mine HG went, one the first signs was rough running and #6 misfire.
BakerFJ
Benny Bodangus
- Thread starter
- #31
The HG has already been replaced by the PO, and no signs of bubbling in the reservoir nor low coolant to show as such.
Got down to business today with the good ol' power probe and multimeter. There's two wires to the injectors; power and control. the power tested 12v, which is good. but the control side was not switching like the rest of the injectors (about 2.5v to ground, should test 9-12v with ign on) and it also read 0V with ignition on (position 1)
also tested injector resistance again to be triple sure, and it was 14 Ohms (OE Spec 13.4-14.2)
So I tested contuinity across the yellow/blue (control) wire from the ecu plug to the injector connector, and it shows that it was good, since yknow I already fixed the broken part. Also inspected both commonly worn places on the harness and everything checked out well.
This leads me to my diagnosis, which I won't know is forsure until I get the new part in; ECU is bad
Although I had a new(used) ECU in there already, I had only discovered the shorted wires on the harness 2 days ago (long after I threw in the ECU for sh*ts and giggles). I believe the reason I get shown code 24 while trying to set timing with the cruiser running is because now both ECUs have that Injector 6 circuit shorted to power (i.e. probably fried). So I will get on to getting a replacement ECU and *hopefully if the Land Cruiser gods say it may be so* the Land Cruiser will run once more!
My fingers are crossed
Got down to business today with the good ol' power probe and multimeter. There's two wires to the injectors; power and control. the power tested 12v, which is good. but the control side was not switching like the rest of the injectors (about 2.5v to ground, should test 9-12v with ign on) and it also read 0V with ignition on (position 1)
also tested injector resistance again to be triple sure, and it was 14 Ohms (OE Spec 13.4-14.2)
So I tested contuinity across the yellow/blue (control) wire from the ecu plug to the injector connector, and it shows that it was good, since yknow I already fixed the broken part. Also inspected both commonly worn places on the harness and everything checked out well.
This leads me to my diagnosis, which I won't know is forsure until I get the new part in; ECU is bad
Although I had a new(used) ECU in there already, I had only discovered the shorted wires on the harness 2 days ago (long after I threw in the ECU for sh*ts and giggles). I believe the reason I get shown code 24 while trying to set timing with the cruiser running is because now both ECUs have that Injector 6 circuit shorted to power (i.e. probably fried). So I will get on to getting a replacement ECU and *hopefully if the Land Cruiser gods say it may be so* the Land Cruiser will run once more!
My fingers are crossed
BakerFJ
Benny Bodangus
- Thread starter
- #32
I would too, but I already did the valve cover gasket and used a lil' RTV to help seal it up because the first one I had on there leaked. not in the mood to scrape all that up haha. Should've checked as a "while I'm in there" thing but I didn't, so oh whale. If this injector ordeal doesn't sort it out though, that is what I'll be doing most likely
BakerFJ
Benny Bodangus
- Thread starter
- #33
Got the new ECU (updated one, part# 89661-60221) installed today. Engine runs smooth! But alas, now I cannot get any speed going in drive. It's like I'mI'm in 3rd gear 
couldnt even get up my baby driveway, but could get up in low gear... Ugh balls. Stay tuned lol and any ideas on what could be my issue now are all welcone
couldnt even get up my baby driveway, but could get up in low gear... Ugh balls. Stay tuned lol and any ideas on what could be my issue now are all welcone
BakerFJ
Benny Bodangus
- Thread starter
- #34
Got the new ECU (updated one, part# 89661-60221) installed today. Engine runs smooth! But alas, now I cannot get any speed going in drive. It's like I'mI'm in 3rd gear couldnt even get up my baby driveway, but could get up in low gear... Ugh balls. Stay tuned lol and any ideas on what could be my issue now are all welcone
couldnt even get up my baby driveway, but could get up in low gear... Ugh balls. Stay tuned lol and any ideas on what could be my issue now are all welcone
BakerFJ
Benny Bodangus
- Thread starter
- #35
Got the new ECU (updated one, part# 89661-60221) installed today. Engine runs smooth! But alas, now I cannot get any speed going in drive. It's like I'mI'm in 3rd gear couldnt even get up my baby driveway, but could get up in low gear... Ugh balls. Stay tuned lol and any ideas on what could be my issue now are all welcome.
Uodate: it was just a buried connector I didn't see that was unplugged. She runs good now!! Transmission shifts weird, gonna check into that tomorrow. Maybe fluid level.. Or cable adjustment.
couldnt even get up my baby driveway, but could get up in low gear... Ugh balls. Stay tuned lol and any ideas on what could be my issue now are all welcome.Uodate: it was just a buried connector I didn't see that was unplugged. She runs good now!! Transmission shifts weird, gonna check into that tomorrow. Maybe fluid level.. Or cable adjustment.
BakerFJ
Benny Bodangus
- Thread starter
- #36
Got the new ECU (updated one, part# 89661-60221) installed today. Engine runs smooth! But alas, now I cannot get any speed going in drive. It's like I'mI'm in 3rd gear couldnt even get up my baby driveway, but could get up in low gear... Ugh balls. Stay tuned lol and any ideas on what could be my issue now are all welcome.
Uodate: it was just a buried connector I didn't see that was unplugged. She runs good now!! Transmission shifts weird, gonna check into that tomorrow. Maybe fluid level.. Or cable adjustment.
couldnt even get up my baby driveway, but could get up in low gear... Ugh balls. Stay tuned lol and any ideas on what could be my issue now are all welcome.Uodate: it was just a buried connector I didn't see that was unplugged. She runs good now!! Transmission shifts weird, gonna check into that tomorrow. Maybe fluid level.. Or cable adjustment.
BakerFJ
Benny Bodangus
- Thread starter
- #37
Got the new ECU (updated one, part# 89661-60221) installed today. Engine runs smooth! But alas, now I cannot get any speed going in drive. It's like I'mI'm in 3rd gear couldnt even get up my baby driveway, but could get up in low gear... Ugh balls. Stay tuned lol and any ideas on what could be my issue now are all welcome.
Uodate: it was just a buried connector I didn't see that was unplugged. She runs good now!! Transmission shifts weird, gonna check into that tomorrow. Maybe fluid level.. Or cable adjustment.
couldnt even get up my baby driveway, but could get up in low gear... Ugh balls. Stay tuned lol and any ideas on what could be my issue now are all welcome.Uodate: it was just a buried connector I didn't see that was unplugged. She runs good now!! Transmission shifts weird, gonna check into that tomorrow. Maybe fluid level.. Or cable adjustment.
BakerFJ
Benny Bodangus
- Thread starter
- #38
Got the new ECU (updated one, part# 89661-60221) installed today. Engine runs smooth! But alas, now I cannot get any speed going in drive. It's like I'mI'm in 3rd gear couldnt even get up my baby driveway, but could get up in low gear... Ugh balls. Stay tuned lol and any ideas on what could be my issue now are all welcome.
Uodate: it was just a buried connector I didn't see that was unplugged. She runs good now!! Transmission shifts weird, gonna check into that tomorrow. Maybe fluid level.. Or cable adjustment.
couldnt even get up my baby driveway, but could get up in low gear... Ugh balls. Stay tuned lol and any ideas on what could be my issue now are all welcome.Uodate: it was just a buried connector I didn't see that was unplugged. She runs good now!! Transmission shifts weird, gonna check into that tomorrow. Maybe fluid level.. Or cable adjustment.
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