Charcoal Canister

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The check valve on the stock canister can be cleaned/repaired. It's your only hope of passing smog in California. Since 2015 they have to do a visual inspection and fail you for any parts that are not stock or stock replacements. The vc120 that I used To cure my tank VACUUM problem, is plastic, obviously a different size and the hoses have to be rerouted. Maybe it will pass smog in a non-communist state, but not in Cali.
 
The check valve on the stock canister can be cleaned/repaired. It's your only hope of passing smog in California. Since 2015 they have to do a visual inspection and fail you for any parts that are not stock or stock replacements. The vc120 that I used To cure my tank VACUUM problem, is plastic, obviously a different size and the hoses have to be rerouted. Maybe it will pass smog in a non-communist state, but not in Cali.

I know Cal is strict with inspections, but how can they determine if a duralast charcoal canister is a correct replacement part and which models it's a correct replacement part for? Two top lines going to and coming from the same places, what to question?
 
I know Cal is strict with inspections, but how can they determine if a duralast charcoal canister is a correct replacement part and which models it's a correct replacement part for? Two top lines going to and coming from the same places, what to question?
The bottom air line. The durmast model doesn't have a port. The AC Delco model does. It would take pretty good and someone familiar with 80s to see that mine is not stock. Used SS long screws and flipped the lower band so the bracket wouldn't hit the use/relay box. All 3 hoses routed with a new lower hose. Ill find out in a month when I go for my annual checkup.
 
The bottom air line. The durmast model doesn't have a port. The AC Delco model does. It would take pretty good and someone familiar with 80s to see that mine is not stock. Used SS long screws and flipped the lower band so the bracket wouldn't hit the use/relay box. All 3 hoses routed with a new lower hose. Ill find out in a month when I go for my annual checkup.

Insert any manufacturer iname in my comment, wasn't really being particular to one over the other. I suspect you will be fine.
 
The fact that some states still require this system to be intact in order to pass their annual emissions inspection is why I am surprised that no one makes a direct fit replacement charcoal canister.
 
I went to Thompsons In Placerville and the guy said "you passed the computer test, but you are in violation of modifying the original parts. "He said he would pass it this time, but promised it would never pass again.
 
I know Cal is strict with inspections, but how can they determine if a duralast charcoal canister is a correct replacement part and which models it's a correct replacement part for? Two top lines going to and coming from the same places, what to question?
Worked fine for me.
 
I went to Thompsons In Placerville and the guy said "you passed the computer test, but you are in violation of modifying the original parts. "He said he would pass it this time, but promised it would never pass again.

Hit him in head with shovel and bury him. Problem solved.;):eek::meh::skull::slap:
 
Anyone have the part number for the Delco version? And what store did they get t from? My VatoZone is showing the VC120 as discontinued.
 
Anyone have the part number for the Delco version? And what store did they get t from? My VatoZone is showing the VC120 as discontinued.
Post #44 solved it for me.
 
If your state emission laws requires OEM equipment be installed, refreshing the OEM canister isn't that hard. The hardest part is getting the lid off the canister. A flat file and patience will do the trick. The old charcoal can be replaced with fresh charcoal purchase in the Aquarium section at Wal-mart. The check valve on the top needs to be cleaned with brake cleaner and compressed air. Once the check valve is operating freely, install the canister's internals adding fresh charcoal, then seal the lid back on using silicone sealer, JB Weld, etc. You'll be good to go.
 
Oops, bump…

Regarding the check valve, am I understanding this test correctly - Air goes in tank pipe, and you want to feel air come out the other two lines without restriction? Then, air goes in purge pipe, and you do not want to feel air coming out elsewhere? As it is, air into tank line is definitely restricted, whereas air into purge line comes freely out the bottom hose.

Have not gotten around to checking VSV or anything yet, but have the 0401 code and slight release of pressure from gas tank when removing cap.
 
Cool, thanks. Started reading that thread earlier but didn’t go far enough.

Regardless, when doing the test, air should be able to flow into the canister through the tank pipe, yes? Never had to work on anything in an evap system, so active noob status

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air should be able to flow into the canister through the tank pipe

Yes, when there is pressure in the tank it flows into the canister. If the purge valve is open then it gets sucked into the engine. If the purge valve is closed, or there is too much pressure, then it can flow out the bottom. If there is vacuum in the tank, then air can flow from the bottom into the tank.
 
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