If it is like the earlier 80s, I think you still automatically lock when shifting into lo, IOW you can not disengage the CDL in lo (w/out mod). Try it, and you will see whether the CDL light comes on.
center diff lock question
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If it is like the earlier 80s, I think you still automatically lock when shifting into lo, IOW you can not disengage the CDL in lo (w/out mod). Try it, and you will see whether the CDL light comes on.
I thought that ABS didn't come till OBD2?
No, my (unlocked) 93 had ABS, 4 wheel discs, full floater.
Hmm, sucks for all of ya'll '93 plus guys.
I would never add the fuse, but I would love to add that FF rear you're rolling with.
You have one of the rare (in the US) 93-94 FZJ80s without ABS and without rear disk brakes and without the Full Floater rear axle.
I was unaware that those models had the CDL switch but since they are a lot like the 91-92 models (same dash, axle, xfer case) it makes sense. I edited my above post to reflect these non-ABS 93 & 94 vehicles.All US spec 80s (91-97) have a locking center differential. Your rear axle will make it impossible to retrofit OEM electric lockers without a complete swap out of the rear axle.
-B-
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The center diff lock switch is $50 or more from Toyo for the 95-97. The pin 7 mod I still need to do, as I haven't done it yet.
I pulled the emergency switch from the dash on my '97 and noted the number on top of the switch. It is a clip-in rectangle switch of generic type. It was letter-letter-801 or something like that. I went to salvage and looked for the same emergency switch and number in Camrys and etc. Found 2 in early '90's Tercels and took them. This was in a salvage yard that allows free-range pilfering for a small fee. I got both switches for $3.00. The yard is in Mesa, AZ on Extension Rd. north of the tracks right near brother Kevin"s shop (toolsrus). It is under the name of Pick-a-Part but was going under another name at the time. There are many yards with the same attitude.
I modified the switch.
First, I razored off the little guide from inside the plug side of the switch so that the factory CDL plug in the dash would fit. Then it plugged right in. Then I pryed out the plexiglass emblem from the front of the switch. It is just glued in.
I put 1000g wet sandpaper on a surface, wet the paper, and sanded off the painted "E" emblem from the back of the plastic. From there you can do your own thing. I printed "CDL" on paper and took it to a copy shop. Had it printed in negative so that CDL was clear and all else was black. You could just leave it blank if you want. I glued it to the back of the plastic and added a layer of taillight lense repair tape to make the letters red, then super-glued it back in. Now the face says CDL in red when the lights are on. I made two, one for my truck and the other for my Bro's new 80 that he got after the roll. I don't know that he has put his in yet, but it is so simple that if he hasn't, he should be spanked!
This is in line with another post that I made on finding parts across Toyo model types or even manufacturer lines. That is in another thread and I need to look it up next to see if anyone has any other bright ideas.
I pulled the emergency switch from the dash on my '97 and noted the number on top of the switch. It is a clip-in rectangle switch of generic type. It was letter-letter-801 or something like that. I went to salvage and looked for the same emergency switch and number in Camrys and etc. Found 2 in early '90's Tercels and took them. This was in a salvage yard that allows free-range pilfering for a small fee. I got both switches for $3.00. The yard is in Mesa, AZ on Extension Rd. north of the tracks right near brother Kevin"s shop (toolsrus). It is under the name of Pick-a-Part but was going under another name at the time. There are many yards with the same attitude.
I modified the switch.
First, I razored off the little guide from inside the plug side of the switch so that the factory CDL plug in the dash would fit. Then it plugged right in. Then I pryed out the plexiglass emblem from the front of the switch. It is just glued in.
I put 1000g wet sandpaper on a surface, wet the paper, and sanded off the painted "E" emblem from the back of the plastic. From there you can do your own thing. I printed "CDL" on paper and took it to a copy shop. Had it printed in negative so that CDL was clear and all else was black. You could just leave it blank if you want. I glued it to the back of the plastic and added a layer of taillight lense repair tape to make the letters red, then super-glued it back in. Now the face says CDL in red when the lights are on. I made two, one for my truck and the other for my Bro's new 80 that he got after the roll. I don't know that he has put his in yet, but it is so simple that if he hasn't, he should be spanked!
This is in line with another post that I made on finding parts across Toyo model types or even manufacturer lines. That is in another thread and I need to look it up next to see if anyone has any other bright ideas.
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JDM DiffLock
Just to further muddy the waters.
I have a JDM cruiser 1993 model with 16 inch rims (15's will not fit) ff rear axle with disk brakes and no abs and factory front and rear diff locks. I also have the Center Diff Lock switch on the dash the same as Fire.
I suspect that my vehicle was manufactured as the factory geared up to manufacture the first of the 24 valve diesel cruisers hence the larger wheels to allow clearance for the larger disk brakes fitted to the 24 valve cruisers.
All in all I think that I got the best deal that I could with my vehicle. The only thing that I would have wanted that I did not get was a factory fitted winch as they are a very good winch.
I also have the ice / cool box.
One day when I get around to it I will do the 7 pin mod to allow running in low ratio without the Center Diff Locked. Although I am not sure when it would be helpfull given that when I need low ratio I usually need all the traction I can get.
We have a lot of mud around where I live and when it gets slippery the best solution is to lock her up and let rip. 34" Simex Jungle Trekker 2s help as well.
Damn they can throw some mud.
Well thats my $0.02 south pacific shekels worth.
Cheers and keep the rubber side down
Just to further muddy the waters.
I have a JDM cruiser 1993 model with 16 inch rims (15's will not fit) ff rear axle with disk brakes and no abs and factory front and rear diff locks. I also have the Center Diff Lock switch on the dash the same as Fire.
I suspect that my vehicle was manufactured as the factory geared up to manufacture the first of the 24 valve diesel cruisers hence the larger wheels to allow clearance for the larger disk brakes fitted to the 24 valve cruisers.
All in all I think that I got the best deal that I could with my vehicle. The only thing that I would have wanted that I did not get was a factory fitted winch as they are a very good winch.
I also have the ice / cool box.
One day when I get around to it I will do the 7 pin mod to allow running in low ratio without the Center Diff Locked. Although I am not sure when it would be helpfull given that when I need low ratio I usually need all the traction I can get.
We have a lot of mud around where I live and when it gets slippery the best solution is to lock her up and let rip. 34" Simex Jungle Trekker 2s help as well.
Damn they can throw some mud.
Well thats my $0.02 south pacific shekels worth.
Cheers and keep the rubber side down
Thanks for the information on your non-US vehicle.
Sometimes we forget about the various configurations available in other parts of the world and we make statements that are only true for US Spec vehicles. I try to qualify my posts to state "US Spec" but frequently I forget.
Feel free to start a new thread in the 80-Section and post up some pictures of your truck!
-B-
Confusion about the Pin 7 mod is pretty common.
ALL YOU NEED TO LOCK THE CENTER DIFF IN HIGH-RANGE IS A CORRECTLY WIRED CDL SWITCH.
TO HAVE THE CENTER DIFF UNLOCKED IN LOW RANGE YOU HAVE TO DO ONE OF 2 THINGS:
-UNPLUG THE LOW-RANGE SENSOR FROM THE T-CASE
UNPLUGGING THE SENSOR FROM THE T-CASE FOOLS THE COMPUTER INTO THINKING THAT YOU'RE STILL IN HIGH RANGE. UNFORTUNATELY, THIS ALSO PREVENTS THE TRANNY FROM USING THE LOW-RANGE SPECIFIC SHIFT POINTS.
OR
-DO THE PIN 7 MODIFICATION
THE PIN 7 MOD ALLOWS YOU TO KEEP THE LOW-RANGE SENSOR PLUGGED IN BUT DISABLES THE AUTO C.D. LOCK IN LOW RANGE WHILE KEEPING THE APPROPRIATE SHIFT POINTS.
Hayes
ALL YOU NEED TO LOCK THE CENTER DIFF IN HIGH-RANGE IS A CORRECTLY WIRED CDL SWITCH.
TO HAVE THE CENTER DIFF UNLOCKED IN LOW RANGE YOU HAVE TO DO ONE OF 2 THINGS:
-UNPLUG THE LOW-RANGE SENSOR FROM THE T-CASE
UNPLUGGING THE SENSOR FROM THE T-CASE FOOLS THE COMPUTER INTO THINKING THAT YOU'RE STILL IN HIGH RANGE. UNFORTUNATELY, THIS ALSO PREVENTS THE TRANNY FROM USING THE LOW-RANGE SPECIFIC SHIFT POINTS.
OR
-DO THE PIN 7 MODIFICATION
THE PIN 7 MOD ALLOWS YOU TO KEEP THE LOW-RANGE SENSOR PLUGGED IN BUT DISABLES THE AUTO C.D. LOCK IN LOW RANGE WHILE KEEPING THE APPROPRIATE SHIFT POINTS.
Hayes
One question that came to mind with the factory setup on CDL only engaged by the H/L shifter....
I can see the need for unlocking the center diff in low range if you want to be making lot of low-speed turns on the trail and don't want the center diff messing up your turns.
It would seem that having the diff locked in high range (at highway speeds) is a bad (or at least undesireable) thing, and should be avoided....
Could having the center diff locked with ABS confuse the ABS computer when braking while cornering at high speeds (40+), and cause incorrect application of the ABS?
I can see the need for unlocking the center diff in low range if you want to be making lot of low-speed turns on the trail and don't want the center diff messing up your turns.
It would seem that having the diff locked in high range (at highway speeds) is a bad (or at least undesireable) thing, and should be avoided....
Could having the center diff locked with ABS confuse the ABS computer when braking while cornering at high speeds (40+), and cause incorrect application of the ABS?
Locking the center diff disables ABS, no worries there. I don't ever engage CDL on high traction surfaces, but it is nice to have the option to lock on gravel roads when going 20-40mph in Hi, and you don't want to be winding out your RPMs in Lo.
I have a 94 CDL, F&R lockers, FF, 4wheel Disc and ABS. When it is in 4low the center diff always locks and I can't unlock it untill I go back to 4hi.
Actually , The switch allows you to activate the center diff lock when in 4Hi.
Pin 7 mod is to allow you to unlock the center diff when in 4 Lo. Otherwise, it locks automatically. I have not done this mod as I personally don't see driving in LO with the CDL off. Even towing I have never had an issue that 1st gear didn't take care of.
It's like modifying your transfer case shift plate in an FJ40 to allow you to put the Tcase in 2LO. I did that and never used it either.
Pin 7 is to allow an unlocked condition in low range. This is used where slippery conditions require wheel slip to prevent the start of wheel spin. In some conditions wheel slip can start the truck sliding when it is all locked up. This is mostly in snow or ice, but can be used in mud. Snow is not a problem that you have much of in the south seas. Having moved to an area where it snows now and then, I should do the mod. It is best to be able to use low range on ice without the truck locking up and sliding off the road.
wheel slip to prevent wheel spin???? You lost me
Im MY case I have found the best applications of low range without the CD locked are:
1. Manuevering a heavy trailer on a steep slope (boat docks) where lower gearing is a plus.
2. On slickrock situations where traction is abundant and tight turns cause understeer/binding when the CD is locked.
I have noted several people suggest the use of low range on snow and ice and frankly it leaves me puzzled. I've been driving on snow and ice for 30 years and can count the number of times I have done that on two hands. Gears are torque multipliers and low range allows the engine rpm to move higher into the power band at low vehicle speeds.
I (for one apparently) don't want additional torque on the drive wheels on slick surfaces. The only time I use low range in snow is when I'm chained up, have plenty of traction and need the additional gearing to push through the drifts.
Romer said:
Jason Andrews said:
I did it the other way around, I did the unlocked low range mod, THEN added the CDL switch, pin 7 mod. Along with trail riding tight radius, I use it always when towing in reverse. As I regularly jockey a tandem axle car trailer in Chicago, I find that low range is perfect for finite low speed maneuvering of my rig, especially in reverse. I go low range CDL unlocked every single time I put a trailer in reverse, *without* a single exception, and did so with my 4R as well. I found locking the CDL in low range to render low range useless for trailer maneuvering because the turning radius and axle bind just sucked. I did the unlocked low range mod (with the unplugging of the locking switch) within a week of ownership, then plugged the locking switch back in, and did CDL switch/Pin 7 the next week.
The best part of the CDL mod IMO, is the Pin 7 mod. You now have 2 more choices of center differential action using a plug and play (and unplug and play) mod.
My .02
ST
wheel slip to prevent wheel spin???? You lost me
I have noted several people suggest the use of low range on snow and ice and frankly it leaves me puzzled. I've been driving on snow and ice for 30 years and can count the number of times I have done that on two hands. Gears are torque multipliers and low range allows the engine rpm to move higher into the power band at low vehicle speeds.
I (for one apparently) don't want additional torque on the drive wheels on slick surfaces.
I was thinking the same thing. In fact, you're better off doing the opposite, and using a "start in 2nd" button if you've got one.