Caster Shims, Necessary?

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devo said:
How are you measuring caster without going to an alignment place? Is it in the FSM?
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I used the inclinometer on my phone and a couple straight edges.
 
Park on level ground and snd check your tire pressures. Get a cheap angle finder at t he hardware store. Put the angle finder on the bottom trunion bearing cap. Don't use the studs or nuts. You should be able catch the edge of the bearing cap. Pretend the level in the pic is the angle finder.

20230411_200322.webp
 
Also, my crystal ball says one of the first two weeks of august for SAS10.

Pure speculation though
 
devo said:
Of course my 43 wonders! I chase it side to side constantly! I was thinking it was my 40 year old TRE’s or my center arm causing the wonder? As I reviewed my wondering issues it made me think of the caster shims and how they could make a difference. Sounds like it will? It’s funny because I didn’t think twice about castor correction for my 80 after a lift.
@Ol Yeller and Ian did you guys shim the rear?

Thanks everyone for chiming in. I’ll get back to this in many days from now after I do the Fing work.

This reminds me of a quote from JRR Tolkien “all who wonder are not shimmed”

Peace out!
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Bob, I didn’t shim the rear.

I replaced Tre, rebuild center link, rebuild manual steering box, and it would still wander.

I replaced springs/shocks along with shims. Oh yeah, I did knuckles too at that time - at that point it was full nuclear option. I was just tired of incremental fixes.
 
When I got this rig @ 8 years ago the knuckles were redone with the addition of disc brakes. The steering box was rebuilt, center link guts were replaced, and the drag link end was rebuilt . Springs, shackles and bushings 2 years ago. Not sure why I didn’t think of the TREs till lately? They seem to still have life in them after 40+ years!
 
devo said:
Who likes City Racers TRE’s. Not necessarily a fan of 555.
Don’t know if I necessarily need OEM, plus I don’t have the part #’s
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No experience with City Racer's TRE, but I have bought a bunch of other stuff from him and it has always been top quality.
 
devo said:
Who likes City Racers TRE’s. Not necessarily a fan of 555.
Don’t know if I necessarily need OEM, plus I don’t have the part #’s
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From Toyota Parts Deal
45045-69015 End Steering Relay Rod PS
45046-69025 End Steering Relay Rod DS
45046-69035 End Tie Rod DS
45046-69055 End Tie Rod PS
45047-69025 End Steering Drag (Center Arm)

EDIT: Part No's for a '77 don't ask me why
 
devo said:
@77mustard40
Thanks for those #’s. And enabling me to remain lazy!
I’ll find out if they are the same for a 1981 ?
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Your numbers maybe different. I think you have larger pattern knuckles. Idk.
 
More rod end talk & info here:

OGBeno

Post in thread 'Fake OEM tie rod end kit?'

And to clarify things for your Toyota button pusher at a dealership, the only part numbers that are applicable to 4x series trucks globally still available from Toyota are the following (applicable through EOP):

LHD:

45047-60H00
45046-60H02
45045-60H00
45046-60H00
45046-60H03

RHD:

45047-60H00
45046-60H00
45046-60H01
45045-60H00
45046-60H03

These are "kits" per the Toyota part numbering system: You get an end, you get the rod associated with that end, you get a cotter pin, and you get a castle nut. These ends will all have grease zircs already fitted to the...
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Most of the information here is very complete so I’ll only add my latest results. @Jdc1 did a differential swap, bushings, knuckle rebuild, seals, TRE’s, steering arms…in other words a total and complete rebuild. I’d sent along a set of 4* caster shims because the Saginaw power steering conversion was no different then described here…wonky at best and scary at 60/65mph.

The alignment shop confirmed the correction at +3*.

To wrap up a long story…. My truck steers perfectly even at 80mph….(a recent test drive). Another one of the best updates on my 40
 
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