Carb Rebuild - Discharge weight and spring issue

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Joined
Sep 21, 2025
Threads
4
Messages
24
Location
Bigfork, MT
I'm rebuilding my carb (p/n: 21100-61141) on my '85 FJ60 using PinHeads videos and FSM however these both reference an accelerator pump discharge weight, spring and steel ball however mine has rubber washer or something on the top like its capped off. Any thoughts on what this or how I should proceed? Thanks!

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Remove o-ring. Tap the housing for bits to fall out on to a towel or container. If it does not fall out, gently nudge with a dental pick
 
pull that orange washer/gasket off what does it look like then
That did it. Any reason why someone would have put that gasket on there? I did notice the plunger top is a bit marred up.

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Any reason why someone would have put that gasket on there? I did notice the plunger top is a bit marred up.
I've seen that little orange gasket in other carbs, are you sure it's not supposed to be there? The plunger top is marred probably from someone trying to get it out...
 
Thanks for the reply. That’s what through me off is it wasn’t in the diagram I have or in Pinheads video. Perhaps when someone rebuilt this they added that in having worked on older carbs? I have noticed my carb doesn’t have the aux pump and fuel return as shown in the diagrams. My insulator looks different as well. Are there other variations between years? I’ll do some more searching on mud for the variations. Thanks!
 
Did you already have a carb rebuild kit? If you do which one did you get and where? I am going to try and rebuild another one but I'm trying to remember where did I buy it and which one. Just an FYI, try not to switch the primary and secondary jets (#58,#62) I couldn't pass smog for running too rich and later on found out my mistake it's now on it's way to Mark's Offroad in Burbank so he can see what else I fawked up. :bang:
 
Cruiserteq sells the rebuild kits
 
@crutch

That's something one of the noted Carb guru rebuilders here on mud does as part of the rebuild. It helps to seal any 'blow-by' and stiffens up the discharge weight spring. Discharge weight has been filed down to accommodate the washer/gasket. Obviously, that carb has been rebuilt before.

I believe the '8 9' stamped next to it is the rebuild date OR could be the size of the sec slow jet.

When you reassemble, put it back the same way.
 
confirm if it has been filed down. If not do as per schematic. The gasket between the two halves serves as a gasket, hence no need for oring.
 
@vipergrhd Do you have anyone in the PI who can ship you a NAPCO Carb kit ? The 11-T199A. Better because they still use a leather accelerator pump which is better for CA ethanol gas and thicker gaskets.

Otherwise, the Keyster is fine.

@crutch -- It's been filed down. Some rebuilders also stake the discharge weight.

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@vipergrhd Do you have anyone in the PI who can ship you a NAPCO Carb kit ? The 11-T199A. Better because they still use a leather accelerator pump which is better for CA ethanol gas and thicker gaskets.

Otherwise, the Keyster is fine.

@crutch -- It's been filed down. Some rebuilders also stake the discharge weight.

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Thanks everyone for the great info, I want to get this right the first time. I'll put it back the way it was.
 
@crutch

That's something one of the noted Carb guru rebuilders here on mud does as part of the rebuild. It helps to seal any 'blow-by' and stiffens up the discharge weight spring. Discharge weight has been filed down to accommodate the washer/gasket. Obviously, that carb has been rebuilt before.

I believe the '8 9' stamped next to it is the rebuild date OR could be the size of the sec slow jet.

When you reassemble, put it back the same way.
Tell me more about this spike. The ball should seal that discharge weight passage right? Is the o-ring (you say same as the o-ring for the secondary diaphragm) used if the ball seat is marred?
 
Yes, the ball is a 'check-valve' for the accel pump fuel circuit. As I understand it, the reason for the gasket on the discharge weight, is to seal that cavity as the air horn, after 40 years, can slightly warp so the large gasket that normally seals it is not as effective. Also, as you say, it helps if the seat for the check ball is pitted or otherwise corroded so it's leaky. You'll see there's really not a lot of gasket over that Discharge weight, and it's very close the Venturi bores, so this is something learned after a 1000 rebuilds, I imagine.

Personally, I've never done it. I always check the Air Horn with a straight edge as per the FSM and have never encountered a warped one, on a 60-series carb. Did have one on a early two-barrel 40 carb that was so warped it wouldn't run until straightened. But I've only rebuilt a handful of these and always just go back to stock since I'm in the People's Republic of Gavinzuela.
 
I've got another question for you as I'm trying to follow the FSM and don't fully trust the PO with some other things I've found on the vehicle. As I understand it the sizing on the slow jets are 65-68 primary and 90 secondary. I noticed that my bowl is stamped with these corresponding sizes on the casting however the jets were swapped. This makes we wonder about the Venturis. The one installed in the Primary location has a "2" stamped on it but nothing on the end of the other one. Any thoughts on how to verify the Venturis are in the correct location? As always thanks for all the expertise!

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@vipergrhd Do you have anyone in the PI who can ship you a NAPCO Carb kit ? The 11-T199A. Better because they still use a leather accelerator pump which is better for CA ethanol gas and thicker gaskets.

Otherwise, the Keyster is fine.

@crutch -- It's been filed down. Some rebuilders also stake the discharge weight.

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View attachment 4210624
Thanks @Spike Strip, I will have to make a call to my cousin and see if he could call that shop where we get Toyota parts. Last time I hoarded a bunch of parts for my truck and the 60. Pardon the hijack @crutch .
I will try to rebuild another carb and hopefully not fawk it up.
 
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