Camping Equipment for Our Trucks

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Pro-tip: camp near John, and approach his site with a hungry puppy look on your face. Whatever he is cooking is better than yours.
Just now that breakfast might not happen until 1pm!
 
To my best memory, @JohnVee is the only person to feed me cheek meat with his bare slimy hands - and I really liked it. Press "Like" if you too have eaten meat off the face of animal from John.

Wow . .that came out really weird.
Why would you assume “cheek” meant “face”? Meh, whatever helps you sleep at night.
 
I hope this is gonna be cool. Took it in a trade last night. Never seen such a thing. Anybody wanna talk about getting it running for me?

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More or less the same tech as today. It's a small engine. Get it running first, then check out the electrical generation side.
 
I hope this is gonna be cool. Took it in a trade last night. Never seen such a thing. Anybody wanna talk about getting it running for me?

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Take a pic of the inside of the gas tank. That will tell you a lot about what will be involved on the engine side. Probably gonna' take a tank scrub and a carb clean at the bare minimum. I'd bet money that once it's running, the electrical side will be fine as-is.

Here's a video I found:
 
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Nowhere near as cool as the @JohnVee find, but similar. My father-in-law gave me an old Honda EM650 genset five years ago that he had purchased for $20 at an auction. It was in non-running condition when he got it and it sat in his shop for at least 10 years collecting dust before he gave it to me. I'm not sure what the date of manufacture is, but I'd guess late '80's. I decided to get it running for my trip to Moab back in April, but I ended up just picking up a Jackery instead. The little genset does run fine now that I've cleaned the rust out of the gas tank, cleaned the carb, and replaced the fuel and vent hoses.

 
Why would you assume “cheek” meant “face”? Meh, whatever helps you sleep at night.
Wouldn't be the first time I've eaten ass......... wait Boston Butt is actually the butt right ;)
 
Nice! How did the Jackery work out on your trip? Have been wanting one of those battery stations that could handle 1-2 night trips.
Jackery 500 paired with a 50w solar panel worked well to power a fridge and charge phones. I did run the Jackery pretty low a couple of times and had to charge with 12v from the truck to bring it back up. I think a 100w panel might keep the Jackery charged without the need to supplement with 12v. The Jackery is a nice unit though…and I do hate to hear the drone of a gas powered generator in camp. For that reason alone the Jackery is great.
 
I have a Jackery 500 paired to a 100W solar panel on the roofrack. Power my "high end medical sample retired" fridge all day and is typically 100% full by the time the sun goes down or no longer charging. I like Jackery and other portable units, easy to setup into a tent kitchen for long term camping, or move it between vehicles.
There are other brands that have caught up, and maybe even surpass, Jackery already in bang for buck. Plenty of comparison videos on youtube too.
 
This Anker Powerhouse is currently on sale for $200
Anker 521 Portable Power Station, 256Wh Solar Generator (Solar Panel Optional) with LiFePO4 Battery Pack, 200W 6-Port Powerhouse, 2 AC Outlets, 60W USB-C PD Output, LED Light for Outdoor Camping, RV https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09FF46FQ9/?tag=ihco-20
 
Wiring assistance needed. I have a live 1 gauge wire running to the back of my truck. There is no negative. It was running to a quick connect for a warn winch. The negative from the connector was running to the frame. Can i run this 1 gauge to a small fuse panel and have the negative connected to the body? I’m trying to wire up a fridge and dont want to run additional wires. Is this possible? Which fuse box do u recommend?

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Wiring assistance needed. I have a live 1 gauge wire running to the back of my truck. There is no negative. It was running to a quick connect for a warn winch. The negative from the connector was running to the frame. Can i run this 1 gauge to a small fuse panel and have the negative connected to the body? I’m trying to wire up a fridge and dont want to run additional wires. Is this possible? Which fuse box do u recommend?

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I used two conductor 10 AWG wire based on length from the 2nd battery to the back of the Cruiser and the current my fridge draws during compressor startup with positive and negative leads coming off the battery terminals. In addition, I have a dash mounted switch that activates a relay to turn the fridge on and off so I don't have to unplug the fridge each time. There is a 10A fuse between the relay and fridge and a 15A fuse built into the fridge to protect it.

Could you connect the 1 AWG to the fridge with a body ground and make it work? Probably but that's not the way I would do it.
 
Wiring assistance needed. I have a live 1 gauge wire running to the back of my truck. There is no negative. It was running to a quick connect for a warn winch. The negative from the connector was running to the frame. Can i run this 1 gauge to a small fuse panel and have the negative connected to the body? I’m trying to wire up a fridge and dont want to run additional wires. Is this possible? Which fuse box do u recommend?

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I used two conductor 10 AWG wire based on length from the 2nd battery to the back of the Cruiser and the current my fridge draws during compressor startup with positive and negative leads coming off the battery terminals. In addition, I have a dash mounted switch that activates a relay to turn the fridge on and off so I don't have to unplug the fridge each time. There is a 10A fuse between the relay and fridge and a 15A fuse built into the fridge to protect it.

Could you connect the 1 AWG to the fridge with a body ground and make it work? Probably but that's not the way I would do it.
Did something similar. Ended up running both positive & negative wires from battery. Added a relay, then a 6 blade fuse block. Only used 3 of connections. Intentionally placed the ports on the removable access cover in case I wanted to return to OEM more easily. The addition of a dash mounted switch would be nice. Currently every dog walker can peak in the back window and read my battery voltage (glows blue).

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I used two conductor 10 AWG wire based on length from the 2nd battery to the back of the Cruiser and the current my fridge draws during compressor startup with positive and negative leads coming off the battery terminals. In addition, I have a dash mounted switch that activates a relay to turn the fridge on and off so I don't have to unplug the fridge each time. There is a 10A fuse between the relay and fridge and a 15A fuse built into the fridge to protect it.

Could you connect the 1 AWG to the fridge with a body ground and make it work? Probably but that's not the way I would do it.
I aas planning to go to a fuse block and from fuse block to fridge. I found a video that shows how the 1 gauge attaches.
 
Became a fan of these rechargeable lights after this weekend. Nice to have small package with adjustable brightness and color and easy to direct pattern. Will be adding a couple magnets to them as well.

Amazon product ASIN B09HQFYY88
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Did something similar. Ended up running both positive & negative wires from battery. Added a relay, then a 6 blade fuse block. Only used 3 of connections. Intentionally placed the ports on the removable access cover in case I wanted to return to OEM more easily. The addition of a dash mounted switch would be nice. Currently every dog walker can peak in the back window and read my battery voltage (glows blue).

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Very similar.

This is my second panel and is much more functional than the first version I had.
Left to right:
- 45A Anderson connector with 10 AWG wire dedicated for fridge with power switch on dash.
3 gang panel connected to 4 AWG with 60A breaker
- 45A Anderson connector for diesel heater, air compressor, or recharging battery bank.
- cigarette lighter plug (just because)
- voltage monitor with USB port and on/off switch

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Some great power solutions in here.

I feel like my ideal "overlandy" setup would be a Jackery 500 or similar with a dedicated home in the rig but easily removable to switch between vehicles or pull out at camp if needed. Charge at home pre-trip, then hooked up to 12V (ignition) for charging while vehicle running (have to drive at least 2 hours for camping spots around me anyway), and 100W solar for constant topping off. From what I gather this would solve 99% of my use case for 1-3 night camping trips with basic cooking, lighting, and device charging needs for the family.
 
Some great power solutions in here.

I feel like my ideal "overlandy" setup would be a Jackery 500 or similar with a dedicated home in the rig but easily removable to switch between vehicles or pull out at camp if needed. Charge at home pre-trip, then hooked up to 12V (ignition) for charging while vehicle running (have to drive at least 2 hours for camping spots around me anyway), and 100W solar for constant topping off. From what I gather this would solve 99% of my use case for 1-3 night camping trips with basic cooking, lighting, and device charging needs for the family.
That's my exact setup. I use a Bluetti 500w unit and have a 120w solar panel for top up when needed. I like the bluetti as it is a cube and doesn't have the large handle of a jackery, makes for easier stacking and storage in the cargo area.
 
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