Buncha questions sorry

[Saltydecimator]

Questions about 91 3fe:
1 valves. After head being resurfaced the clearance should have decreased by the removed amount correct so is that not too tight to run engine with? Folks keep taking about adjusting then with engine running. So loosening and tightening that screw and nut while the rocker jumping around?
2 obd engine parameter readers. On these older ones the water temp mod can’t be done, will this older obd give info on the fly to a smart phone with a Bluetooth dong?
3 oil. You folks like 15w40 in these? Only 15w40 at my local maomart was labeled for diesels. That matters not?
4 prop shaft grease? What flavor? On aircraft ya supposed to never interchange greases, what’s recommended for these?
5 brakes. Watched a YouTube vid talking about hi temp fluid and performance pads? What’s the common issue causing spongy or unresponsive on these?
6 fuel rail copper washers. Seems stack up in picture and when I removed them was kinda weird. Seems to me the bigger gas pas through bolt had 2 washers against rail wind 1 under the bolt head?
7 over services transmission. Po had said he replaced a buncha fluids and musta misread how much to add? Or is that indicative of different problems?
8 why does the fsm have you jack the truck up to get exhaust on?

 

[Saltydecimator]

Sorry for ugly organizing thanks!!

 

[CJF]

2 no.

7 what?

 

[Saltydecimator]

7- over serviced transmission fluid. “Too much” fluid on the dipstick

 

[CJF]

Overfilled can cause damage. Drain and refill to proper level asap.

Edit: You know how to check the level correctly?

 

[Mandrake]

1) What's the fsm say?
2) No.
3) Diesel oils don't have the friction modifiers that gasoline oils have, but you can still use it if you want. Or keep looking for a 15W40 oil for gas engines.
4) This isn't an aircraft, so use whatever's in the gun.
5) Air in the lines.
6) One copper washer per side of banjo fitting.
7) Then drain some out.
8) Because the fsm was written for pussies and fatas

ses.

 

[nukegoat]

Questions about 91 3fe:
1 valves. After head being resurfaced the clearance should have decreased by the removed amount correct so is that not too tight to run engine with? Folks keep taking about adjusting then with engine running. So loosening and tightening that screw and nut while the rocker jumping around?

seems like a bad idea but i'm not a 3fe guy

2 obd engine parameter readers. On these older ones the water temp mod can’t be done, will this older obd give info on the fly to a smart phone with a Bluetooth dong?

paging @Desert Dino

3 oil. You folks like 15w40 in these? Only 15w40 at my local maomart was labeled for diesels. That matters not?

some people do. i like 5w40. whatever. but yeah, "diesel" oil works

4 prop shaft grease? What flavor? On aircraft ya supposed to never interchange greases, what’s recommended for these?

true for automotive purposes too, technically, but most of the automotive complexes are compatible with one another (i.e. almost all of them are lithium complex

5 brakes. Watched a YouTube vid talking about hi temp fluid and performance pads? What’s the common issue causing spongy or unresponsive on these?

air in the lines and 80 brakes suck

7 over services transmission. Po had said he replaced a buncha fluids and musta misread how much to add? Or is that indicative of different problems?

maybe?

8 why does the fsm have you jack the truck up to get exhaust on?

to make it easier?

 

[Fletcher34]

I run Rotella 15w40 in mine. There's thread after thread of mud users swearing by it to not be "something there". It actually helped drastically slow down my rear main leak to. Only thing you need to consider is the temps in your area.

 

[scottryana]

I am not sure if this is an language barrier or if you are typing on your phone or what, but please go back and edit your original post and take a little time and effort to make it readable. If you are going to come in and ask for help, don't also ask us to guess what you are trying to say. There are a lot of people on here that take the time and put in effort to help people, so please take the same amount of time when asking your questions.

 

[jonheld]

1. No. Follow the FSM.
2. No.
3. 10W30. I like Amsoil synthetic, but use what you like. It's not a diesel, it just sounds like one.
4. NGLI 2 AP grease.
5. It's 27 years old. Replace all the soft lines, rebuild the calipers, rebuild the wheel cylinders, replace the rotors, replace the drums. That's a good start.
6. There should be 1 copper washer on each side.
7. Check ATF level with engine running at normal operating temp on level ground. Shift through all gears or simply go for a drive. ATF level should be on the HOT mark of the dipstick.
8. Not sure what you're referring to.

 

[-Spike-]

80 brakes suck

I hate reading this. I can damn near put you through the windshield, have Centrix rotors and pads, OEM equivalent. But I understand that they are difficult to bleed properly.

 

[jonheld]

I hate reading this. I can damn near put you through the windshield, have Centrix rotors and pads, OEM equivalent. But I understand that they are difficult to bleed properly.

I agree, and my 97 can stop really well. The 91 has drum rears. If properly set up they will stop.

 

[ppc]

The answer to question 2 is "Yes" the ODB1 TOYOCOM device from ZF-ScanTools has the capability to monitor engine coolant temps using the TOYODB1 Android application. This is shown in the video posted by @harrydunn in another thread posted today. The ECT is shown in pink on the right side of the display.

Well, I hope there are a few people left watching this thread. Friend came over last night with his new OBD1 data tool and we grabbed a video of my cold startup. Anything jumping out to anybody? Note the idle is only at 775 RPMs at 87F when it should be around 1200-1500 at cold start. Let me know your thoughts. (FYI...when I started the truck bone cold the ECT was at 55 degrees with the same idle speed, I didn't start the video until a couple of minutes later at 87F ECT). I may need to start a new thread as this one has gotten really long and kind of fizzled out.

 

[nukegoat]

I hate reading this. I can damn near put you through the windshield, have Centrix rotors and pads, OEM equivalent. But I understand that they are difficult to bleed properly.

Have you driven a modern automobile?

 

[nukegoat]

they will stop.

Yes they technically function but they still suck

 

[-Spike-]

Have you driven a modern automobile?

That has nothing to do with it. I can lock the brakes without much effort, period. On 37's. It's not fun, barely controllable, scary AF on my truck with a 6" lift, disabled ABS and no sway bars, but the brakes themselves are perfectly adequate, and were state of the art for the period. In fact they outperformed many similar vehicles of the era in stopping distances and other specs, like the 100 series for instance. People cry that 80 series brakes suck, I say that their brakes aren't working properly.

 

[CJF]

The answer to question 2 is "Yes" the ODB1 TOYOCOM device from ZF-ScanTools has the capability to monitor engine coolant temps using the TOYODB1 Android application. This is shown in the video posted by @harrydunn in another thread posted today. The ECT is shown in pink on the right side of the display.

Well I'll be:

TOYOBD1 - Android Apps on Google Play

 

[jonheld]

Have you driven a modern automobile?

So are you comparing a 20+ year old 6000 lb vehicle to a 2018 sports sedan? In that respect, the brakes are inferior. That is also not a valid comparison.

 

[gummycarbs]

Have you driven a modern automobile?

I'm actually curious what is lacking. I think the newest vehicles I've driven are a 2014 Highlander and a 2013 4Runner, so not exactly high performance.

The PO put on Centric (O'Reilly house brand, I think) up front and Wagner in the back and I really like the braking. I'm running stock tire sizes and haven't towed, though.

 

[nukegoat]

That has nothing to do with it. I can lock the brakes without much effort, period. On 37's. It's not fun, barely controllable, scary AF on my truck with a 6" lift, disabled ABS and no sway bars, but the brakes themselves are perfectly adequate, and were state of the art for the period. In fact they outperformed many similar vehicles of the era in stopping distances and other specs, like the 100 series for instance. People cry that 80 series brakes suck, I say that their brakes aren't working properly.

What advancements in braking technology do you believe are relevant here?