Bumps on my 78’s rear tub/fenders?

[Gusb]

I've got the exact same fender/turn signal spot - except on the passenger side. That's a big slug of rust that's eaten into both pieces. Need to remove and patch/replace the spot-welded support piece on the bottom, patch the body and then weld the bottom enforcement piece back on. When I do my fenders I'll make additional patches if you can wait until HFO (is Olive inside most of the time)?

The windshield frame of course has a good amount of rust inside and it would no doubt be a lot more involved than the fender spot. If you're going to all the trouble of pulling the window frame - the glass should probably come out. To do it right the whole frame could be dipped and then any other problem areas fixed - there must be more going on inside the frame. Again I'd be open to helping - it's just a schedule thing.

Did you replace your front bib at some point?

Off topic - if your 78 has a stock jack can you get the numbers off it for me (or a picture, etc.) I've searched and can't seem to nail it. - Thanks

I could get the work started and just have you make the patches and weld them in. I could grind down the welds after as well. I just want to use you as a crutch so I don't have to learn to weld.

 

[Fast Eddy]

I
Did you replace your front bib at some point?

Here are the threads from my two bodywork sessions where I employ an advanced metal adhesive. You posted in the 2nd one.

Bib repair

Sill and Tub repair

 

[Gusb]

Support brackets in process...

Started patching up the support brackets. The 14ga takes a little more effort of course - using an 1 1/2 inch steel bar to get the radius. Who knows if it's worth the trouble but I'll end up using the original supports anyway. The 14ga does seem to move around less when welding.

 

[Gusb]

Patched bracket ad support plate - and the clean-up bracket mount area. Final welds on the wheel cover patch will be done when the bracket/plate are in place. Although this one was the only one rusted through, if this works out I'll plan to pull the 3 others and clean them up. Weld-thru primer on everything at this point.

 

[Dieseler]

Exellent work Gusp
On those light brackets on the front fenders you do not have to tack them in place,I have a cruiser were they are not attached and stay in place by the bolt for the turn signal.
I prefer it not being attached so I can check for rust evry couple of years and I can clean out trapped dirt which causes the rust when unchecked.

 

[Gusb]

Got the bracket/support pad bolted, jacked and clamped back into the original spot. Plug-welded everything back in. The top of the wheel cover was an 18ga to 14ga plug so stayed around a 14ga setting on the welder to get penetration. Inside the wheel well on the lower part of the bracket the plug welds had 18ga at the back so I kept the welder hot and backed those plugs with a copper plate. Seemed to work out OK - more grinding to add to the list.

That odd color on the steel is from a MetalReady prep before welding - I think it leaves some zinc on the steel. The POR15 people say it enhances welding/conductivity but I'm thinking it may not be the best stuff to breathe in while welding so I may stop doing it in future until I'm ready for paint. I think it helps the weld primer take hold.

 

[KY Longhunter]

GUSB, any updates?

 

[rjcruisers]

very nice

very nice work,, good junk cpu trick!!!

 

[Gusb]

Slow it goes ...

GUSB, any updates?

Well - no great shakes. Been busy with work, etc.

I have all the other brackets (balance of 3) and jump seat plates removed, decided to rework/patch those too. Not as bad as #1 but I've decided to clean up the tub in as many places as possible. At this point I've rough patched/tacked the 3 remaining top wheel cover areas, done a little grinding and getting ready to finish weld patches and get the brackets welded back on. I feel like the red machinist's dye helps me control the grinder. Got a growing pile of small parts that are holding me up (need access to a sand blaster).

Done more thinking than actual work, but I think I've finally decided what I'll do with my sill replacement (see following post).

 

[Gusb]

Kicked around what to do about a sill replacement for a while now.

Thought about after market, etc. Thought about 2x2 tubing, etc.

I'm now thinking I'm going to clean, patch and use the original horns, and try to fabricate the main sill structure and 18ga cover as close to original as I can get. I've examined the original horns and realized they were factory welded to the main structure. I'm thinking of joining a local "tech shop" with access to a bunch of machinery (brake, mill, blast cabinet, etc.) and trying to use as much of the original (inside brackets, nuts, horns) with new cold roll 14ga/18ga for the main structure.

Will probably take me forever just to patch the horns.

 

[Gusb]

Trying to nail down the rear sill channel dimensions - mine is mostly rust and full of Bondo/glass from the PO, so it's hard to get good measurements. Hopefully these are close.

--- SEE CORRECTED DRAWING IN LATER POST ---

 

[miker]

Looks great Gus! Nice clean work.

 

[KY Longhunter]

Nice work. Those welds are really impressive.
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Its funny what gets me excited these days.

 

[Awl_TEQ]

Okay Gus,

Those dims will do nicely - I do notice that 0.553 + 1.400 does not equal 2.073 ?? (1.953) Maybe a double check is in order.

Kevin

 

[Gusb]

Okay Gus,

Those dims will do nicely - I do notice that 0.553 + 1.400 does not equal 2.073 ?? (1.953) Maybe a double check is in order.

Kevin

Sorry about that - updated drawing attached. Dim changes are in red. I'll email you another PDF. Note everything is measured to outside surfaces - with calipers but the original is pretty messed up. Thanks for the catch.

 

[Gusb]

Hey Kevin,

How hard would it be to add the dimpled area on the sill where the bottom door latch goes? I know this is additional time/cost but if you can do it without too much trouble I'm sure it will look a lot better than anything I'll come up with.

Not sure the dims are real critical and the edges are sort of soft angled and not a sharp 90 - see attached. Note it's off-center to the main piece. Let me know what you think.

--- NOTE: INDENT LOCATION ON THIS DRAWING MAY BE .060 inch TOO FAR TO THE LEFT. CHECKING IT OUT AND WILL KNOW MORE WHEN I GET THE SILL FROM KEVIN ---

 

[Awl_TEQ]

Gus, I'll see what I can do.

Stupid question - my 45 has no back door and I don't have a 40 nearby - what is the 18 gauge cover for? Is the dimple through both? Are the 14 and 18 gauge channels just laminated together for extra thickness?

 

[Gusb]

Gus, I'll see what I can do.

Stupid question - my 45 has no back door and I don't have a 40 nearby - what is the 18 gauge cover for? Is the dimple through both? Are the 14 and 18 gauge channels just laminated together for extra thickness?

The 14 ga sill is the main structure with horns - the 18 ga is like part of the body work. I'll try to find some photos...

 

[handcannon]

Gusb

Do you, or anybody else for that matter, know if these dims also work for earlier Cruisers such as my 1971?

Don

 

[Gusb]

Gusb

Do you, or anybody else for that matter, know if these dims also work for earlier Cruisers such as my 1971?

Don

I’m not nearly as knowledgeable or experienced as most on here and mine is the only sill I’ve had my hands on. But I think it is all stock (78) and I’ve gotten to know it much better lately . Part of the reason I'm throwing the drawings up is to at least try to cover 78. CCOT for example lists a good number of sills for various years, I assume they're all different. Hole patterns, spare tire mounts, etc. are different for sure. I also think soft top/hard top (for the same year) are not exactly the same. And of course - newer than 78 is a completely different sill.



Kevin - little more info for the parts:

It’s almost like Toyota designed this area to trap moisture in that 14/18 ga sandwich over time and rot itself away. Seems like the one area that is always shot on an old 40. The design could probably be modified and improved. I’m just trying to get this one close to stock. I will try to cleanup/patch the curved ends and weld them to the 14 ga piece you’re making at the original factory seams. There are 4 support brackets welded in the 14 ga piece – I’ll probably try to pull and weld the originals into your replacement piece.
I looked around after market for a good while but worried about quality, fit, etc. If you ever decided to start pumping these out complete with nuts, curved end horns, etc. I don’t doubt your quality would be best out there.
I think the dimple is also on the 14 ga – completely rotted away on mine so it’s hard to tell. See the attached – hopefully it makes sense.