Buffing/Polishing

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Bucky before and after:
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I did this paint correction using a DA sander with the sanding pad removed and an arbor adapter with a Velcro backing pad using foam buffing pads in two different densities. Yellow (more aggressive) pad with Meguiars Heavy cut compound. I followed this with Meguiars Swirl Reducer on a gray (less aggressive) pad. Final stage was 3M Machine Glaze on a fresh gray pad and finished off with Collinite 854 rubbed on and removed by hand.
 
WarDamnEagle said:
Now that you say that, it could have been something more aggressive. I think I had everything from 800 to 2000 that I was playing with. Can't remember what I wound up using on the bulk of it.
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I don’t think I would take anything more than 2000 to finished paint, esp old paint or 2 stage…
 
I will try and get some pics tonight, but I may not as we are expecting rain/snow tonight (Yay we need it desperately here in California) I really think my paint will come back. If no pics tonight I will send some later this week. I believe my paint is in at least as good of shape or better than the examples above. Got my fingers crossed.
 
Man I would love to be the be one doing that process to that truck. It can be very rewarding. Just go slow and don’t touch it with wet sand paper. It doesn’t have orange peel. It is just old and oxidized paint.
PLEASE PIST PICS!
 
I will post pics. I think I may do it mainly by hand also. Not sure. I am going to try the least aggressive methods first. Clay bar; rubbing compound; polishing compound. I am going to see where that lands and take it from there. I will be asking for opinions/advice along the way.
 
thorslc1977 said:
I will post pics. I think I may do it mainly by hand also. Not sure. I am going to try the least aggressive methods first. Clay bar; rubbing compound; polishing compound. I am going to see where that lands and take it from there. I will be asking for opinions/advice along the way.
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Doing this work by hand will not produce the best results. Get yourself a DA sander and convert it to buffing pads or just buy an orbital buffer. An orbital with foam pads will not cut deep. I can hold mine in one place for a long time without cutting deep or burning paint. Doing it this way requires very little pressure and creates little heat. It's sooooooo much easier on your body than trying to do it by hand. Here's what I use. Cheap and effective.

Amazon product ASIN B000EMD2MC
I use this on a regular electric DA sander. One from Harbor Freight would work fine, but here's the one I have. It does double duty for sanding and body work and with a change of the arbor, polishing:

Amazon product ASIN B002EQ96MG
Another thing to consider is that by using small 3.5" or 4" pads, you are able to get into cracks and crevices better than with some giant 7" pad. It may take a little longer, but you get better results.
 
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Some before pics. What do you think of using CLR on the rust as @wngrog does? I have not even washed it yet. Hood paint still has some luster
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I’ve done CLR before and a car with really thin paint that has surface rust peeking through paint will wipe it off if you are quick and finesse it you can make it do beficial things BUT, your truck is not in need of those things.
Polish it… keep polishing. There is no magic bullet for preservation of an orignal vehicle like yours. Just elbow grease and love.
 
That paint is in good condition still, would clean up super nice.

I'd do an initial CLR with like a blue non scratch kitchen sponge.
Then follow up with a polish. Could probably even do a really good regular wash then polish.

I've had good luck with Griots garage products
 
wngrog said:
Yes. Don’t scratch it but CLR would go first then good Correction compound.
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@wngrog - Thank you for all the great info you have posted re: Patina, paint preservation, etc. I did have a question for you on the CLR. Do you use this full strength or dilute with water in a spray bottle?
 
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