Broken Bolt. Help!

[ClassyJalopy]

How much time do you have to spend watching welding 101 videos on youtube? This day in age, you can learn anything your heart desires, likely for free. It just takes time.

If the welder isn't an option I think a propane torch (be careful) and locking pliers should do it. If it's still THAT stuck after applying a bunch of heat with a torch then you may need to resort to some careful dremel work. I think that bracket comes off, though, doesn't it? It'd be way easier to deal with that on a bench.

I would love to take that bracket off but I can't figure it out from the parts diagrams. It will be a piece of cake for the local machine shop to remove the offending bolt if I could take it to them

I would think carefully before drilling that thing yourself. It's very easy to drill off center if you don't have the proper equipment. A machinist can do it right. But that will cost a bit. Yes, heat is probably the best solution. Btw, and maybe counterintuitively, I have found many times that with a stuck bolt, tightening it first will often release the stuck...

Somebody else posted here how they drilled the exact same bolt and them instead of using the thread they just used a longer bolt and put a nut on the other end. I am keeping that option as last resort.

 

[2001LC]

Bracket is part of oil pump molded case!

1st option) Welding on a nut is best. The heat well expand the contract the threads, loosening them. There is some (minor) concern with heat to the oil pump seals.

2nd option) Use a grinding stone to get a flat surface on end of bolt. Hit it dead center with a center punch for drill bit centering guide. Drill hole in center of bolt, starting with very small sharp drill bit working up in sizes. keep increasing bit size drill out until just starting to cut into threads. Use a thread clean out tool and tap out remaining threads of bolt. Removing radiator to get more working room may help. This is not the easiest thing to do, as location is difficult to work in ans bolt is steel and bracket (oil pump) is aluminium. You'll likely also need a very small drill or a 90 degree angle chuck.

Note: You can try removing with an easy-out once hole in center of bolt is drilled big enough for one. But to much torque on easy-out and it "may" snap in the hole. Then you make drilling out the easy-out while on engine near impossible.

If you damage threads you "may" be able to tap up one size, and drill alternator also (not what you want) or run bolt through it with a nut of same size as OEM.

If all else fails I've a used oil pump listed in mud and CL as parts from some 4.7L 2UZ-fe VVT engines I have.

 

[ClassyJalopy]

Situation update: moderate amount of heat and using a stud extractor was a disaster. Now that even little nub is broken off.

I think my only remaining option is the nuclear one. I will grind it flat and then use a center punch to create a starting point for drilling.
I absolutely refuse to use the easy-out as my past experience of breaking it in the hole still haunts my memories. If I end up screwing up the threads then I will resort to using a through bolt.
Nightmare continues ...

 

[abuck99]

Easy outs are or anything similar will be useless on hardened automotive bolts. In a situation like this stepped drilling is the only option now. @2001LC provided a good process for drilling. Use COBALT drill bits.

If you do your own service work- on 15+ year old truck inevitably you'll have broken bolts or studs: one of these for tight places ($99 if you have the battery), and a set of cobalt bits ($75 on HD online)

 

[CanadianRockyCruiser]

get a welder, or call a friend or neighbor who has one... worst case scenario, call in a mobile welder. Drilling is a poor solution, fraught with error.

You still have enough to weld a nut directly to it, and then remove it like you would any other bolt. First, thread the nut on. Then fill the inside of the nut that attaches to the nut with molten metal. The heat will expand and contract the steel, making it easier to remove your stud. The welded nut will give you enough grip and leverage to remove it. Enough of the half measures.



You can go to AtoZ Rent-All in Madison and rent a miller MIG for $61/day, if you have to.

 

[abuck99]

get a welder, or call a friend or neighbor who has one... worst case scenario, call in a mobile welder. Drilling is a poor solution, fraught with error.

You still have enough to weld a nut directly to it, and then remove it like you would any other bolt. First, thread the nut on. Then fill the inside of the nut that attaches to the nut with molten metal. The heat will expand and contract the steel, making it easier to remove your stud. The welded nut will give you enough grip and leverage to remove it. Enough of the half measures.



You can go to AtoZ Rent-All in Madison and rent a miller MIG for $61/day, if you have to.

I would be very cautious in adding too much heat to that bracket through welding a nut on there. The heat will travel and could damage the seal. I would dab a little welding material, let it cool and build it up slowly cooling in between steps.

 

[CanadianRockyCruiser]

I would be very cautious in adding too much heat to that bracket through welding a nut on there. The heat will travel and could damage the seal. I would dab a little welding material, let it cool and build it up slowly cooling in between steps.

I mean this respectfully: I think there is no concern with adding heat from a welded nut to that stud. It is located far enough from a seal, and on a large volume of metal which will dissipate the heat sufficiently. Let that stud glow! If I wasn't a day's drive away, I'd be happy to do it.

 

[ClassyJalopy]

I mean this respectfully: I think there is no concern with adding heat from a welded nut to that stud. It is located far enough from a seal, and on a large volume of metal which will dissipate the heat sufficiently. Let that stud glow! If I wasn't a day's drive away, I'd be happy to do it.

I might have found a professional to come to my house and weld a bolt on it. I expect to have better news by tomorrow.

 

[ClassyJalopy]

Should I worry about the Truck's electrical system going haywire when I use a welder on there? Should I look up how to disconnect the engine ground?

A local metal workshop owner will come over tomorrow to weld a nut over the broken bold and help me part ways with $75. Hopefully that would be the end of this saga!

I have already purchase the correct replacement bolt from the local Yota dealer in anticipation.

 

[abuck99]

I mean this respectfully: I think there is no concern with adding heat from a welded nut to that stud. It is located far enough from a seal, and on a large volume of metal which will dissipate the heat sufficiently. Let that stud glow! If I wasn't a day's drive away, I'd be happy to do it.

No offense taken. The respect goes both ways.

 

[abuck99]

Should I worry about the Truck's electrical system going haywire when I use a welder on there? Should I look up how to disconnect the engine ground?

A local metal workshop owner will come over tomorrow to weld a nut over the broken bold and help me part ways with $75. Hopefully that would be the end of this saga!

I have already purchase the correct replacement bolt from the local Yota dealer in anticipation.

Just disconnect the battery.

 

[Weedhopper]

Try this. It cools, not sure it freezes, and lubricates the threads. Combination of shrinking the bolt and lube.

It looks like you can get a grip on the bolt. Even with a welded nut I would still use this stuff.

Good luck !

 

[FxFormat]

This is what i used on all these broken bolts, get them right out, as long as you have clearance for the tool

It clamps down on the stud and the harder you turn it the stronger it clamps down and will remove it.

 

[2001LC]

This is what i used on all these broken bolts, get them right out, as long as you have clearance for the tool

It clamps down on the stud and the harder you turn it the stronger it clamps down and will remove it.

Sweey! I've not seen one of those, what do they call it?

 

[FxFormat]

Sweey! I've not seen one of those, what do they call it?

Search Amazon Ares broken stud removal, i use this at my shop a lot to remove broken exhaust studs

 

[ClassyJalopy]

This is what i used on all these broken bolts, get them right out, as long as you have clearance for the tool

It clamps down on the stud and the harder you turn it the stronger it clamps down and will remove it.

This is exactly the tool I used to break off most of the remaining bolt piece. To its credit it did have a death grip on the stud but apparently that bolt is really stuck!

 

[iwashmycar]

I’ve had luck in past Dremeling a gap and using this crazy socket. Depends how much meat is left though

 

[FxFormat]

This is exactly the tool I used to break off most of the remaining bolt piece. To its credit it did have a death grip on the stud but apparently that bolt is really stuck!

bolts don't get stuck and break like that unless it was cross-threaded or really really rusted, in your case, 100% sure that bolt was cross threaded, gotta drill it out and re-tap the hold. sorry man, things like this suck when it happens.

 

[ClassyJalopy]

bolts don't get stuck and break like that unless it was cross-threaded or really really rusted, in your case, 100% sure that bolt was cross threaded, gotta drill it out and re-tap the hold. sorry man, things like this suck when it happens.

I think you are onto something here. We welded a nut on there and it just broke off the remaining bolt!

 

[94SRUNNER]

Time to drill and tap?