Not really sure... Looking at the product number online it looks as though they are if the listing is legit.
I guess I probably won’t matter anyway...my guy isn’t strict, or I’ll just swap them out if needed.
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Not really sure... Looking at the product number online it looks as though they are if the listing is legit.
According to DS the cibies and also the Koito housing with the H4 will not need a wiring harness upgrade. You can pretty much plug n play. However he did state that if you did upgrade the harness you would get a better light product. He said it would be noticeable but nothing like 50% more light or anything. For now I plan on installing the Koitos on the stock harness and then upgrade the harness this spring when its not freezing outside. Im only trusting his word on the lights which I think is solid. He is an engineer after all and specializes in automobile lighting. Who knows guess we will see.H4 housings are plug and play in a fj60. Stock wiring works for stock bulbs. All the heavier harness does is beef up the wiring and help reduce voltage drop between battery/alt and filament.
You will need an adapter harness to run led.
According to DS the cibies and also the Koito housing with the H4 will not need a wiring harness upgrade. You can pretty much plug n play. However he did state that if you did upgrade the harness you would get a better light product. He said it would be noticeable but nothing like 50% more light or anything. For now I plan on installing the Koitos on the stock harness and then upgrade the harness this spring when its not freezing outside. Im only trusting his word on the lights which I think is solid. He is an engineer after all and specializes in automobile lighting. Who knows guess we will see.
Your battery sits by its self at 12.6v. When charging it ranges from around 13v to 14.4v. Your bulbs are rated at 12v. So if you can reduce the resistance between the battery and the lights you will get a brighter bulb since it will actually have 13-14v passing through it. Bigger wires in the harness also cut resistance and then heat. The stock harness with a high wattage bulb will get hot and run the risk of burning up.
I’m not going to say what I do for a living but I have a solid 25 years playing with lights and other auto electronics in hobby land. (43yo)
The run-around was basically Stern asking me what I was going to be doing with the lights and what they were going on. Something he had no business asking or knowing. Oddly, I got the same run-around from Susquehanna Motorsports (rallylights.com) at about the same time.That is too bad. I have been buying stuff from him for decades. Never had an issue. I just bought a bunch of stuff for my 62. It took him some time to get it all to me, but he did email me to let me know he was going to be delayed on one of the parts. The wiring harness was top notch. I saw a lot of similar harnesses on Amazon for a lot cheaper, but I cant imagine them being of the same quality.
Historically H4’s were not DOT approved but many of them are now. However, you would need an incredibly strict inspection station to fail you for non dot headlights unless they were super obviously illegal.
Worst case you pop your old sealed beams in for inspection day and swap back after
There is no such thing as "DOT Approved", Fed DOT does not approve anything. They publish standards for automotive equipment and it is all on the supplier to prove that they make all of their parts in conformance with the standard(s) that apply to said parts. It is only when there is a question that arises due to a crash or something similar that the vendor gets audited to check that their parts are still in conformance to the applicable standard(s).And what is DOT approved? $$$$. You pay us money we give you approval. Euro cut lights were so much safer than original dot blob pattern. It’s an arbitrary stamping with little oomph behind it. At least for headlights.
With a fluted lens the reflector is important, but what drives the light pattern is the lens. With a clear, unfluted lens, then the reflector is what drives the light pattern. As I am who suggested those lights form amazon I have a set of them. They're as real as I can tell them to be and they are a very nice light pattern to drive with. I run 55/100's in all of my H4's so that I have a legal low beam. There are many reasons why I don't worry about having a legal high beam. HID fanboy conversions that are poorly made or aimed is just one of them.So as stated before, I found these Cibie's on Amazon that are supposedly the real deal. From what everyone is saying, the reflector in the housing will make the biggest difference on a quality housing vs. moving to LED/Truck-lite type setup. DS charges about $150 for his housings but while I would rather support a small guy like him, the $50+ difference is a bit too much to pass on Amazon. Guess I know what I am asking for from Santa.
Your battery sits by its self at 12.6v. When charging it ranges from around 13v to 14.4v. Your bulbs are rated at 12v. So if you can reduce the resistance between the battery and the lights you will get a brighter bulb since it will actually have 13-14v passing through it. Bigger wires in the harness also cut resistance and then heat. The stock harness with a high wattage bulb will get hot and run the risk of burning up.
I’m not going to say what I do for a living but I have a solid 25 years playing with lights and other auto electronics in hobby land. (43yo)
When I am ready to upgrade what harness do you run or like? That will be probably next.
I just make my own. But there are several references in this thread to existing harness suppliers that should be fine for H4's.
But in general I like to replace all of my battery cables with either 2 or 4 gage welding cable....including the cables off the back of the alternator and to the starter. Also ground the engine to the chassis and battery. Using good connectors and heat shrink to seal things up and then convert to marine style battery terminals which make hooking up the battery easier. I usually buy the cable from Airgas because they have reasonable prices and various lengths on the shelf. Plus they sell a nice simple crimping tool for the bigger connectors and often have the connectors as well.
I have not rewired my lights yet but I need to look at the stock headlight relay and see what it is rated for. However I will likely just use the stock relay as is and then wire its outputs to a separate set of relays for Low and high beam..with appropriate wiring and new connectors. I by a lot of wire from Waytek. I also have a contact in Poland who I know of that makes reproduction wiring harnesses for old Honda motorcycles....with correct wiring colors, connectors, etc....and will add updates if needed. If I send him a headlight harness and discuss upgrades he could be a potential source for a stock looking harness.
yessirHI, So the 82440s Cibies work fine in the fj60 with no fit problem ? Thanks, Mike
LHD or RHD?I'd really like a set of these IPF lights but they are only offered for LHD traffic pattern.