brake questions

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Joined
Aug 26, 2004
Threads
33
Messages
145
Location
Edmond, OK
Got some questions for you all:

-How easy is it to rebuild wheel cylinders?
-I heard that it is fairly simple but is that really the truth?
-Does anyone have any tips to make sure they don't leak?
-Were is the best place to get reasonable but yet good quality brake system parts?

I have to rebuild my brake system and have seen the complete kits on CCOT but worry about the quality for the price. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Brian
 
It is pretty easy to do and reliable. I have rebuilt 100s of cylinders (not that many cruiser ones) and none of them leaked. You need to clean them and hone the inside surface. (I use 400 grit silicon carbide paper and my finger as a hone and solvent as a cutting fluid). Wash out any oil based solvent you use with brake cleaner. Pitting is OK if it is outside the sealing surface. The hard part on cruisers is getting the adjuster screw unstuck. I get the kits at NAPA for a few bucks each.

The reason shops don't rebuild them any more is because of legal liability. It is about as fast to rebuild them as replace them if you have a real hone.
 
Purchase new OEM wheel cylinders, and not have to think about them, other that to adjust them for 20+years...


Good luck!


-Steve
 
I would base my decision on whether to rebuild or replace on whether the truck is gonna be a daily driver or just a weekend toy. If it's just a play toy, buy new. If it's a dd, rebuilds will actually last longer. It's kind of a use-it-or -lose-it thing. The rear wheel cylinders on my 45lwb are 40 years old and work just fine! :)
 
It also depends on the condition of the cyliders and your "pistons" themselves. I have had some that I rebuilt and just ended up replacing the whole thing after a month or so when they started leaking again. They were questionable (lots of pitting) at the time of the rebuild but I went with it to try and save $$. Ended up costing me more in the end than just replacing them.

If they are in pretty good shape then it's easy to hone them out and clean em up, parts store has a nice honer for like 10 bucks, but if they are pretty bad shape then I'd just replace em.
 
One thing to add to the above that I do...an old timer in the british car repair business told me this years ago IIRC (as I too am getting old)...is, when installing the new rubber seals/cups/etc. into the bore, smear just a little bit of dielectric grease/vaseline on the rubber prior to inserting into the bore. I've done this faithfully and haven't had any issues.
 
Yes, you definitely want lots of lube in there on both the cups and the pistons. Once the steel pistons get moisture on them they will start to corrode and bind to the cylinder wall. Grease works well. I tried antisieze on the piston area once and it just hardened up after time and I would not recommend that. :doh:
 
The rebuilding is the easy part, getting the lines off and the adjusters unstuck are probably the parts most prone to seizing and resulting hassles.

My results with rebuilding cylinders are about 50% - seems like some really crappy looking bores end up working and others that look good don't last long. Good luck.

(FYI - rear discs kick ass)
 
Use brake assembly lube or glycerol. Oil based products are bad for the neoprene seals and are not miscible with brake fluid. Maybe that's why some of you guys have had problems with them leaking?

We routinely rebuilt cyclinders in the shop I worked at back in the 70s in about 3-4 minutes without removing them from the backing plate and they didn't come back leaking. Just a quick scrub with the hone, wipe it out with a clean rag, install the seals, pistons and dust caps: done!
 
its not hard to rebuild them, rebuild kits at napa cheap
 
i just go to wheres closer for brake pads and shoes, i probably could tell a differance from checker brakes to napa brakes to midas?
 
birddog019 said:
So, what type of solvent should I use while honing, Also is napa a good source for pads and shoes?

Brian

In the shop, we used the residual brake fluid. I like paint thinner or parts washing solvent (same thing). As long as you get all the oil residue out it is all the same.

I would pick a place that is close to you and knows what they are doing. Nothing is worse than walking out with the wrong parts, so take the old ones with you.
 
Truthfully I think you would be better off replacing them. I did them on my cruiser. I got the kit from CCOT for like $350 or so. its real fast to do, and comes with all the correct, pads, springs, hardware, and a master cylinder. I got my drums cut at NAPA, got new lines from napa, and it only took about 2 hours to put the complete thing in (thats including disassembling, making new lines, and assembling) I just like knowing that I have a brand new brake system when I really need it. I also installed a new brake booster from NAPA.
 
CruisinGA said:
Was not aware that Napa carried brake booster- how much was it?


NAPA has a few listings for LC boosters but it is an ordeal to get one. I no longer try. About 5+ years ago you could buy them cheap at NAPA.


My rule of thumb on drum brake cylinders:

If the system works and can be adjusted adj it, new shoes and leave it alone.

If it is frozen or leaking in 1 or 2 cylinders give rebuilding a shot. NAPA is the way to go for kits. New shoes and go.

If more than 2 are frozen or leaking then you can assume the system is very contaminated. I would replace all of the cylinders.

I have had wonderful success with CCOT cylinders. No success at all with the CCOT brake masters.

I only use OEM or ASAIN brake masters available aftm.

Always buy a new spring return kit for each axle. NAPA has nice ones.
 
I want to say that the booster was around $125, I didnt think it was a big deal to get one. it took like a week to get, it had to come from some wharehouse down in kentucky or something.

dd113 wat kind of problems did u have with CCOT brake masters. My brakes for some reason arent adjusted right. you have to hit the brake twice to get it to stop. Ive adjusted the wheel cylinder soo many times, bled the system, and it still doesnt help. im wondering if it is the master cylinder. my friends 70 FJ40 that he had had the same problem and he said he had to adjust his about once a week.
 
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