Bolt on turbo kit (7 Viewers)

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Anything above 3500 ft ASL the density of the air has dropped enough that cooling becomes a problem because there's not enough MASS of air moving across the radiator anymore. At 5000 Ft, the density is 0.66 that at sea level.

Sitting at 7200 ft at the moment, and though I've known the effects of altitude on HP, I hadn't thought about cooling. I've just been blaming it on living in a desert environment (and until I did the rear heater bypass, the rusted/porous cooling lines). This makes so much sense. Any thoughts on solutions? Cooling fan clutch refresh?
 
@NLXTACY

What’s the cost vs return benefit, between only coating the turbo with fancy smancy ceramic, vs coating the turbo, J and down pipe with the less expensive option? Everyone wants cool underhood temps, but with turbo comes heat.

Aside from that, too many over engineered options pushes the price point beyond what people think is reasonable. You can’t please everyone, but my completely not scientific, redneck esti-gineering makes me wonder if more application of ceramic paint will produce the best results in heat Managment while keeping you profitable.
 
Sitting at 7200 ft at the moment, and though I've known the effects of altitude on HP, I hadn't thought about cooling. I've just been blaming it on living in a desert environment (and until I did the rear heater bypass, the rusted/porous cooling lines). This makes so much sense. Any thoughts on solutions? Cooling fan clutch refresh?

Yes, cooling fan refresh or increase in oil viscosity or ADD electric cooling fans to increase the mass of air across the cooling fins. The electric fans can be set up on a manual switch or even on a temperature switch. There are a few threads here on adding electric fans to these trucks.

If I did a lot of time at elevation or lots of elevation changes (if I drove to CO a lot) I would do the electric fans addition. I did a set of elecrtic fans on a 69 Chevy K20, except I was eliminating the main fan and swapped for electric. I installed a thermobulb with switch (from NAPA) into the upper radiator hose and set the thermostat to run. I also installed a manual override switch for when the fan relay failed......

Any further comment can be taken outside this thread.
 
Sitting at 7200 ft at the moment, and though I've known the effects of altitude on HP, I hadn't thought about cooling. I've just been blaming it on living in a desert environment (and until I did the rear heater bypass, the rusted/porous cooling lines). This makes so much sense. Any thoughts on solutions? Cooling fan clutch refresh?
Ron Davis makes an outstanding radiator.
 
Oil hoses are about to get underway. Excited to have new tools :p

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That collector looks like it’s about to liquify :D

Yeah it does, hit a pot hole at that temp and the thing with bend I bet. Crazy that it can get that hot. :)
 
Wow, getting all high-tech there. To make my drain line, I wrapped the braided hose in scotch tape and grunted it into the fitting with my little sausage fingers. :eek:

Trust me, if it were just for my truck I wouldn’t have spent the money. But making minimum of 50 hoses?! Hell naw!
 
I don't blame you, I'm not kidding when I say grunt. It was not easy and the neighbors probably learned a few new words. :hillbilly:
 
Yeah it’s pretty crazy to see the kind of temps turbos hit when pushed really hard. Like that manifold if made out of 400 grade stainless might last 3 pulls, 304 maybe 6-8 months, 316 a year, 321 or inconel maybe 2-3 years. It gets so hot it changes the molecular structure of the metal.

But you can’t compare a lazy 1FZ turbo to something like that that’s probably 40-45psi all out. :)

Yeah it does, hit a pot hole at that temp and the thing with bend I bet. Crazy that it can get that hot. :)
 
Yeah it’s pretty crazy to see the kind of temps turbos hit when pushed really hard. Like that manifold if made out of 400 grade stainless might last 3 pulls, 304 maybe 6-8 months, 316 a year, 321 or inconel maybe 2-3 years. It gets so hot it changes the molecular structure of the metal.

But you can’t compare a lazy 1FZ turbo to something like that that’s probably 40-45psi all out. :)

And they are probably tuned to the ragged edge of timing and higher AFR than we would run.
 
How much of that was sarcasm, and how much is more heat shield I need to buy for my wiring?

Zero over 1500° almost translucent could not keep headers together.
Note a SC not a turbo. My experience is the turbo run much cooler.
 
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I've seen the exhaust manifolds of a Dodge 318 in a Winnebago glow red pulling a grade in CO. No turbo involved :D
 
I was a kid when I left Colorado/Wyoming and wasn’t aware forced induction created so much heat at elevations. I’ll see what I can do to manage/mitigate it as my wife’s inheriting property out that way and we like to visit regularly.
 
Don't take my post the wrong way. You won't have any issues with the 80 turbo setup.

It was kind of a tongue in cheek post about the ceramic coating.

I have been running my turbo setup with fake ceramic coating for many thousand miles, and have had no heat issues. AC blows ice cold, cruises at 186 with 100 degree ambient temps, idles at 196-202 in 100 degree ambient temps. My downpipe is wrapped with the old fiberglass header wrap not even the new good stuff.'

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I was a kid when I left Colorado/Wyoming and wasn’t aware forced induction created so much heat at elevations. I’ll see what I can do to manage/mitigate it as my wife’s inheriting property out that way and we like to visit regularly.
 
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Don't take my post the wrong way. You won't have any issues with the 80 turbo setup.

It was kind of a tongue in cheek post about the ceramic coating.

I have been running my turbo setup with fake ceramic coating for many thousand miles, and have had no heat issues. AC blows ice cold, cruises at 186 with 100 degree ambient temps, idles at 196-202 in 100 degree ambient temps. My downpipe is wrapped with the old fiberglass header wrap not even the new good stuff.'

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Do you run an intercooler? If so what type?
 

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