- Joined
- Apr 26, 2003
- Threads
- 255
- Messages
- 5,504
- Location
- Pimpin part in SanAntonio TX
- Website
- www.texas4x4.org
- Thread starter
- #561
Nice that's funny
BObed the 60 16in
- Thread starter kling-on
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Well if I could stop breaking this fat whore I would be much happier... I had some pictures I was gonna post a while back but I forgot what they were of... Broke another rear axle shaft trying to pull a suburban out a month or so ago, didnt even have a load on it when it popped.
Picked up a full float GM corp. 14 bolt from a friend today, well he actually brought it over to me, so hopefully I can get this thing fixed the right way here before to long. it already had rotors and brackets for the calipers, but I still need calipers, some brake line (not any on the axle so will have to flare my own.), spring perches gears and then have the hubs turned down and drilled to 6 lug so I dont have to buy new wheels.
Then up front I will be buying 6 shooters and some other front end goodies to make it stronger. then I still need to pull the transmission and cases to put in a good not cracked bell housing. however my weld job may still be ok but dont want to chance it, I want s*** right, tired of missing the fun with my friends.
Picked up a full float GM corp. 14 bolt from a friend today, well he actually brought it over to me, so hopefully I can get this thing fixed the right way here before to long. it already had rotors and brackets for the calipers, but I still need calipers, some brake line (not any on the axle so will have to flare my own.), spring perches gears and then have the hubs turned down and drilled to 6 lug so I dont have to buy new wheels.
Then up front I will be buying 6 shooters and some other front end goodies to make it stronger. then I still need to pull the transmission and cases to put in a good not cracked bell housing. however my weld job may still be ok but dont want to chance it, I want s*** right, tired of missing the fun with my friends.
- Joined
- Apr 26, 2003
- Threads
- 255
- Messages
- 5,504
- Location
- Pimpin part in SanAntonio TX
- Website
- www.texas4x4.org
- Thread starter
- #563
Put a D60 in the front and be done with it
You can guarantee I have been looking for one! That passenger drop being needed is a killer tho. they are going for 1k around here, not to mention the cost to build the thing the right way the first time. Been trying to find a whole truck even if I could to get just the axle and maybe transfercase from and sell / scrap the rest.
Im worried that even with the 6 shooters and everything up front it will no longer be able to handle it or wont take it much longer. good thing about the 6 shooters is if I break one its warrantied and it will buy me some time to save up for a D60 and then I can just swap all the good stuff to the neglected Fiona ( I started her this weekend even, been like 3 months! lol).
Im worried that even with the 6 shooters and everything up front it will no longer be able to handle it or wont take it much longer. good thing about the 6 shooters is if I break one its warrantied and it will buy me some time to save up for a D60 and then I can just swap all the good stuff to the neglected Fiona ( I started her this weekend even, been like 3 months! lol).
- Joined
- Apr 26, 2003
- Threads
- 255
- Messages
- 5,504
- Location
- Pimpin part in SanAntonio TX
- Website
- www.texas4x4.org
- Thread starter
- #565
Just don't spend too much time on makein the rear a 6 lug 14 bolt... Buy wheels and run different or even get 6 to 8 lug adapters for the front. How much wider is the 14 bolt... And I guess you be upgreading trailer too. That was my deal the truck barly fits now 
If machine labor is close to or more than 2 new beadlock wheels then I will buy new wheels. Quote a friend got was about 150 or so to machine it down. Rear axle wms to wms it 57-58" the 14 I got is a SRW so it is 67". The CC/DRW hubs make it 63"... at 63 I can get the back squeezed on... I think... I want it full width tho. And I can run the spacers up front to make it look a little more normal for the time, but that is a lot of "swing" of the big heavy tires on the knuckles... D60 is inevitable. The trailer will be to small so I am wanting a 30' gooseneck so someday I can put a camper on it. Still gonna be a while before its wheeling again cause I got a good bit of work to do and parts list needed with very limited funds. I think in the long run new wheels would be better since I plan on tons front and rear. Then I would kinda like some double bead locks but then need new tires... its a vicious circle that my wallet just can't keep up with.
Decided to run stock 7" backspace Humvee wheels out back on the full width 14B with the Yota stuff still up front. Once I have a d60 front I'll match all the wheels with the pressed centers from trail worthy Fab.
Played with it a little this week too (the truck). Replaced my propane converter and tweaked the mixer a little and tada! Bitch runs again, also got a rebuild kit for the vacuum lockoff and then a spare filter kit also. Haven't done those yet but I have them. Also the switch for my electric lockoff has just been dangling out of the dash by the wires since I got the truck so I finally took the time to mount the switch in a secure place after drilling a hole in the dash to the left of the steering column. Then since code complained about it being a "junk vehicle" cause of the no fenders... I threw one on, it doesn't line up at all but its there, still gotta do the other side. Gonna try and get the 14 B out of my truck but need some help unloading the heavy thing. Then hopefully I can drop it under the truck in an afternoon. Still meed gears and a driveshaft flange to mount up to the Yota shaft (gets rid of stupid and weak strap design) and to build another traction bar then tires that are the same size for the 16.5's. Longish list but its getting much shorter little by little. Then time to spend money on the front end to hopefully end some knuckle issues.
Sent from my DROIDX using IH8MUD
Played with it a little this week too (the truck). Replaced my propane converter and tweaked the mixer a little and tada! Bitch runs again, also got a rebuild kit for the vacuum lockoff and then a spare filter kit also. Haven't done those yet but I have them. Also the switch for my electric lockoff has just been dangling out of the dash by the wires since I got the truck so I finally took the time to mount the switch in a secure place after drilling a hole in the dash to the left of the steering column. Then since code complained about it being a "junk vehicle" cause of the no fenders... I threw one on, it doesn't line up at all but its there, still gotta do the other side. Gonna try and get the 14 B out of my truck but need some help unloading the heavy thing. Then hopefully I can drop it under the truck in an afternoon. Still meed gears and a driveshaft flange to mount up to the Yota shaft (gets rid of stupid and weak strap design) and to build another traction bar then tires that are the same size for the 16.5's. Longish list but its getting much shorter little by little. Then time to spend money on the front end to hopefully end some knuckle issues.
Sent from my DROIDX using IH8MUD
- Joined
- Apr 26, 2003
- Threads
- 255
- Messages
- 5,504
- Location
- Pimpin part in SanAntonio TX
- Website
- www.texas4x4.org
- Thread starter
- #568
Pics of the fenders
Well havent done much to this thing cause its been broke, not running right, broke, running worse, and broke some more. Last it wheeled was in march at the annual Lone Star Cruiser Round Up at K2 (katemcy rocks) off road park just outside of mason Texas. I broke a spring on that trip but wheeled it again later that day with a busted main leaf . Fixed that nonsense and tried to get ready for a trip to Clayton OK but busted a rear axle shaft pulling out a truck... it didnt have hardly any load on it and still broke so whatever. I got angry at it and decided I was NOT gonna fix that stupid broken rear end AGAIN!!
So I didnt.
Been gathering some parts for a while, so let me show yall what I ended up doing. Well for now till I get more money for parts.
. Fixed that nonsense and tried to get ready for a trip to Clayton OK but busted a rear axle shaft pulling out a truck... it didnt have hardly any load on it and still broke so whatever. I got angry at it and decided I was NOT gonna fix that stupid broken rear end AGAIN!! So I didnt.
Been gathering some parts for a while, so let me show yall what I ended up doing. Well for now till I get more money for parts.
1.) First drug these out cause I was gonna need some new wheels for the end result.
2.) then pulled the diff cover off to let out all the brand new only 1 trail ride clean fluid out...
3.) muddy thing making a mess all over the place.
2.) then pulled the diff cover off to let out all the brand new only 1 trail ride clean fluid out...
3.) muddy thing making a mess all over the place.
1.) Got the heavy bastards mounted
2.) I knew the bushings were done and the pipe bent but didnt know the bolt was done too
3.) Guess this can go back to Fiona where it belongs
2.) I knew the bushings were done and the pipe bent but didnt know the bolt was done too
3.) Guess this can go back to Fiona where it belongs
- Joined
- Apr 26, 2003
- Threads
- 255
- Messages
- 5,504
- Location
- Pimpin part in SanAntonio TX
- Website
- www.texas4x4.org
- Thread starter
- #572
Keep the pics comin... Looking good
1.) New style "S" bolt for your trac bar system
2.) Its still good...
3.) "T" bushing
2.) Its still good...
3.) "T" bushing
1.) Broken pile out
2.) Well its under it but not at all in place yet
3.) Adjusting pinion angle to something that looks good and lining frame over the axle as it was the easier way.
2.) Well its under it but not at all in place yet
3.) Adjusting pinion angle to something that looks good and lining frame over the axle as it was the easier way.
1.) when you use your high lift, always check to make sure the top end of it faces up or is removed... 
2.) got some good penetration (thats what she said)
3.) Flux with a 220V Hobart Handler 187
2.) got some good penetration (thats what she said)
3.) Flux with a 220V Hobart Handler 187
1.) nother
2.) Well its on its own weight, not bolted down, but on its own weight.
Then that was all for Friday.
2.) Well its on its own weight, not bolted down, but on its own weight.
Then that was all for Friday.
- Joined
- Apr 26, 2003
- Threads
- 255
- Messages
- 5,504
- Location
- Pimpin part in SanAntonio TX
- Website
- www.texas4x4.org
- Thread starter
- #578
;p
1.) painted and bolted in place with antiseize on the threads the a quick shot of paint again just to help make double sure they dont rust any time soon and I can remove the bolts easily if needed. (but if I am having to remove them I will be very angry!)
2.) Its huge but looks great to me! I opted to not center the rear output by cutting and swapping axle tubes from side to side with the shafts, Figured it was a trail truck and i wouldnt notice any vibration from my under 40mph driving that the very not straight drive shaft didnt already make. If it binds somehow for some reason I will add a double cardon joint.
3.) Side shot of it being done for now. Still need brake calpers for it and the other stuff I mentioned before and gonna have to figure something out for a trac bar, but the offset pumpkin is in a terrible place for that... sooo.. I dont know what I will do about that yet. maybe move it to the other side somehow but space is very limited, and if it stays on the driver side it ill have to move over and the exhaust is in the way. worst case a single chamber flow master and side exit exhaust will free up the room I need, but I like how it isnt all that loud and I can hear easily and talk easily when it is running.
2.) Its huge but looks great to me! I opted to not center the rear output by cutting and swapping axle tubes from side to side with the shafts, Figured it was a trail truck and i wouldnt notice any vibration from my under 40mph driving that the very not straight drive shaft didnt already make. If it binds somehow for some reason I will add a double cardon joint.
3.) Side shot of it being done for now. Still need brake calpers for it and the other stuff I mentioned before and gonna have to figure something out for a trac bar, but the offset pumpkin is in a terrible place for that... sooo.. I dont know what I will do about that yet. maybe move it to the other side somehow but space is very limited, and if it stays on the driver side it ill have to move over and the exhaust is in the way. worst case a single chamber flow master and side exit exhaust will free up the room I need, but I like how it isnt all that loud and I can hear easily and talk easily when it is running.