Hmm, I have a napa filter on mine and it seems to read low at idle... I think I'm going to swap it out to be safe. Which filter did you switch to?
Bizarre oil pressure - low on cold start, higher after warmup (1 Viewer)
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- Thread starter
- #22
Like you guys, the defective filter was a NAPA Gold.
Replacement filter is a Mobile1 as I could not get a Toyota filter on short notice.
ETA: Changed oil with filter (although there was less than 2k since last change). Will send a sample for analysis at next change.
Replacement filter is a Mobile1 as I could not get a Toyota filter on short notice.
ETA: Changed oil with filter (although there was less than 2k since last change). Will send a sample for analysis at next change.
Last edited:
Rivman1243
SILVER Star
I got whatever Napa had that was cheap because I plan on changing the oil and filter again soon, trying to flush out and clean up the inside of the engine without using a cleaner. When I replaced the valve cover gasket and spark plug tube gaskets it looked a little crusty in there
Dave 2000
Not all Land Rovers are useless!
Glad you have it sorted, I would open up the filter to see if there is any metal in there or other reason for the low pressure, use a 'Dremel' tool and cut carefully around the top. There has been a lot of 'stuff' about filter copies being rubbish in the past, be good to know what was going on inside. Did you change the oil as well, not being a dick but as per bloc, it will give a good base for analysis.
regards
Dave
regards
Dave
- Thread starter
- #25
I did change the oil at the same time as the filter. I saved the defective filter, but have not as yet done anything to examine the filter internals. I thought it might be best not to cut into it in case there is some chance of having its function checked first.
bloc
SILVER Star
Nearly every one of these that I've seen pictures of has the same dark brown deposits in the front of the valve cover... even ones that the rest of the valve train looked GREAT. Clearly not a lot of oil getting splashed around up there and letting more deposits sit around.
Yours looks a lot better than many.. for the record.
Rivman1243
SILVER Star
Good to know! I was thinking it didn't look too bad. The texture seemed really course so I didn't want to knock it loose with some sort of cleaner and then trash the bearings. Just been changing the oil about every 2.5-3K. The oil is starting to stay clean longer than 3 minutes.
So I went out to replace my Wix oil filter with a K&N unit and had loads of trouble removing the filter. No clearance to be able to bear down on it. Covering the filter with a paper shop rag finally gave my band clamp some grip.
I don't feel like going though that again, especially considering that I punctured the cheap filter in the process and lost a good bit of oil and disabled the vehicle.
So now I'm looking at installing a remote filter setup.
Here's a good write up on installing a dual remote.
Slee - Oil Filter Relocation (Toyota 80 Series Land Cruiser)
I don't feel like going though that again, especially considering that I punctured the cheap filter in the process and lost a good bit of oil and disabled the vehicle.
So now I'm looking at installing a remote filter setup.
Here's a good write up on installing a dual remote.
Slee - Oil Filter Relocation (Toyota 80 Series Land Cruiser)
bloc
SILVER Star
Some guys run a higher detergent oil to help clean things out.. used to be diesel engine oils had stronger detergent packages, not sure whether that's still the case. Might do some digging on bobistheoilguy.com for info.
Your strategy is probably fine, though.
bloc
SILVER Star
Amazon.com: Lisle 63600 Oil Filter Tool: Automotive
Or the cheap plastic ones from oreilly.
Way cheaper, and less change of anything failing.
I use OEM filters that are smaller (less startup rattle in my case) and punch a hole in the top before pulling the filter during an oil change. This allows much of the oil to drain out into the crank case. Put some tape over the hole, get it turning slightly, then spin the hell out of it and get it out. The smaller OEM filters come out more easily, and the combination of a shop rag wrapped around the bottom and working quickly keeps spilled oil to a minimum.
The one case I like for moving the filter is having it hanging down so if the drainback valve isn't tip-top the worst that can happen is lose 1" of the oil in the filter (enough for air to bypass and stop siphoning). With the stock location the whole filter can drain, in theory.
A few people have installed a Ford racing part for that.. Though it is far from cheap
Amazon.com: Ford Racing M-6880-M22 90° Oil Filter Adapter Kit: Automotive
- Thread starter
- #35
I'm wondering if it has to do with the function of the anti-drainback valve. The sealing surface is pressed up hard against the small holes (more than the replacement Mobile1 filter) as if the spring is too strong or the cartridge is too long for the canister. But that's just speculation.
