Best replacement radiator for the money today...

[LJE]

Grabbed mine from Decatur Toyota online - 20% off sale underway plus free shipping. The items from Decatur are always double boxed and extremely well packaged.

$302 shipped.

Genuine Toyota Parts and Accessories: Official Online Store Serra Toyota of Decatur

Find genuine Toyota parts and accessories that fit your Toyota. Your source for everything from batteries and floor mats to body panels and engine gaskets.

autoparts.toyotaofdecatur.com

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I'll second that Decatur does an excellent job shipping! My radiator was double-boxed with lots of packing material between the two layeys of boxes. I was impressed.

 

[AFei]

IMHO, the "Best replacement radiator for the money today" is the all aluminum eBay radiator made by Alloyworks:
3 Row Core Aluminum Radiator For 1998-07 06 Lexus LX470
3 Row Core Aluminum Radiator For 1998-07 06 Lexus LX470/Toyota Land Cruiser 4.7L | eBay - https://www.ebay.com/itm/404989542907

It costed me $143 only include everything shipped to the door. It's well packed/protected. it looks well made. Before installing it, I did the pressure test. The radiator held 30 PSI for 12+ hours and the built-in ATF cooler held 90 PSI for 12+ hours.

The pressure test is very important and I highly recommend to do it before installing any radiator. It did expose one small leading from the oil cooler fitting nut. I just fixed it by removing the fitting and quickly sanding the flare surface a little bit.

it holds about 3 quarts more coolant. I have tested it for about 30 minutes while the outside air temperature is over 110 degree. With the thermostat removed, the coolant temperature could barely reach 180 degree.

At this moment, I could conclude it's the best radiator for the money today without any question. However, it is definitely not the perfect radiator.
As all other people who purchased this radiator, the coolant reservoir installation bracket on the radiator is off for about 2 inches. I have to use a DIY bracket to attach the reservoir (by using a standard light mount bracket). Very simple and easy DIY and just took 5 minutes to drill a hole.

That's the only correction I have to do.

Another modification is the foam stripping on the top and side edges. I believe this is optional and I did it anyway. Couldn't find more specific sizing info, I used the 1" W X 3/4" T closed cell foam strips with tape. Man such a big mistake! The idea size should be 1/2" W X 3/8" T. The top strip is against the engine bay front bracket, and the passenger size strip is against the condenser. It just put too much stress to the condenser and the radiator, and I end up have to trim half thickness to avoid possible damage. For the same reason, you don't have to use any special cement or use weight to secure the foam strip to the radiator, as it's secured by the condenser and the body, at lease the top and passenger side. The pre-installed tape is good enough.

The DIY bracket to mount the reservoir:

Foam strip pushes against the body bracket:

Also have to DIY the bracket to repair the broken mount hole on the sprout:

 

[yngmrostrvile]

IMHO, the "Best replacement radiator for the money today" is the all aluminum eBay radiator made by Alloyworks:
3 Row Core Aluminum Radiator For 1998-07 06 Lexus LX470
3 Row Core Aluminum Radiator For 1998-07 06 Lexus LX470/Toyota Land Cruiser 4.7L | eBay - https://www.ebay.com/itm/404989542907

It costed me $143 only include everything shipped to the door. It's well packed/protected. it looks well made. Before installing it, I did the pressure test. The radiator held 30 PSI for 12+ hours and the built-in ATF cooler held 90 PSI for 12+ hours.

The pressure test is very important and I highly recommend to do it before installing any radiator. It did expose one small leading from the oil cooler fitting nut. I just fixed it by removing the fitting and quickly sanding the flare surface a little bit.

it holds about 3 quarts more coolant. I have tested it for about 30 minutes while the outside air temperature is over 110 degree. With the thermostat removed, the coolant temperature could barely reach 180 degree.

At this moment, I could conclude it's the best radiator for the money today without any question. However, it is definitely not the perfect radiator.
As all other people who purchased this radiator, the coolant reservoir installation bracket on the radiator is off for about 2 inches. I have to use a DIY bracket to attach the reservoir (by using a standard light mount bracket). Very simple and easy DIY and just took 5 minutes to drill a hole.

That's the only correction I have to do.

Another modification is the foam stripping on the top and side edges. I believe this is optional and I did it anyway. Couldn't find more specific sizing info, I used the 1" W X 3/4" T closed cell foam strips with tape. Man such a big mistake! The idea size should be 1/2" W X 3/8" T. The top strip is against the engine bay front bracket, and the passenger size strip is against the condenser. It just put too much stress to the condenser and the radiator, and I end up have to trim half thickness to avoid possible damage. For the same reason, you don't have to use any special cement or use weight to secure the foam strip to the radiator, as it's secured by the condenser and the body, at lease the top and passenger side. The pre-installed tape is good enough.



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The DIY bracket to mount the reservoir:
View attachment 3670833

Foam strip pushes against the body bracket:
View attachment 3670831

Also have to DIY the bracket to repair the broken mount hole on the sprout:
View attachment 3670836

What made you select this particular one? There is a 4row listed with a review from an individual that claims no fitment issues.

 

[hoser]

I would caution against buying a 4 core aluminum radiator just because it has more cores. More cores was a selling point regarding copper and brass radiators which had tube sizes that were limited due to the strength of the material. Aluminum tubes can span longer.

Which configuration has more surface area? Which radiator has more possible failure points? Which one has better airflow?

1998 OE...

But don't get me wrong, there are other dimensions to take into account that might make a 3-row radiator better than a 2-row. But in the case of the 100 series, I would certainly NOT use a radiator that has a greater depth as that would put the radiator closer to the cooling fan.

 

[AFei]

What made you select this particular one? There is a 4row listed with a review from an individual that claims no fitment issues.

As @hoser said, I read somewhere that more tiny rows might not be necessarily more efficient than larger cores. Also more failure points. So my logic is simple: 3=(2+4)/2 . So 3 row has the best of both side. In other words, 3 row may also have the worst of both side

The 3 row doesn't have issue fitting into the car. However, it does have the issue to let the reservoir fit onto it....

If you compare the pictures of the 3 row and 4 row, you would be able to see the reservoir mounting bracket is at the same spot which is lower for about 2", as shown in this picture. It supposedly align more with the big hole...

 

[OwnerCS]

I just received a new Toyota OEM from Olathe -- double-boxed. No damage to the boxes. It looks like Toyota packaging is the problem. The cardboard packing strips made indentions in the cooling fins. Is this normal? I talked to Olathe parts, and they all come like this from the Toyota packaging. If it doesn't leak, that's all that matters.

 

[Zuberg]

That sucks. It's definitely the factory packaging. When mine arrived from one of the Decatur sales it had some bent fins in one corner. For the cost it's not unreasonable to expect better packaging.

I just gently straightened the fins. Shouldn't have to do this with a spendy OEM radiator but I have to pick my battles these days.

Yours is a good bit more bent up than mine was though.

 

[Rhetoric]

I just received a new Toyota OEM from Olathe -- double-boxed. No damage to the boxes. It looks like Toyota packaging is the problem. The cardboard packing strips made indentions in the cooling fins. Is this normal? I talked to Olathe parts, and they all come like this from the Toyota packaging. If it doesn't leak, that's all that matters.

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Dont sweat it. Fins are going to get bent in normal use anyway. Either use a fin comb or a small screwdriver if it bugs you.

Have a peek at your condenser and transmission cooler for bent fins, too.

 

[Jack90210]

I just received a new Toyota OEM from Olathe -- double-boxed. No damage to the boxes. It looks like Toyota packaging is the problem. The cardboard packing strips made indentions in the cooling fins. Is this normal? I talked to Olathe parts, and they all come like this from the Toyota packaging. If it doesn't leak, that's all that matters.

View attachment 3672925

View attachment 3672926

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Unfortunately, mine arrived from Olathe with similar damage last year. I straightened a few fins out and installed it.

 

[super90]

I've had radiators damaged in shipping three times. Poor packaging in all cases. That was for a Toyota and other cars.

I just order mine from the local dealer that provides a discount, and pick it up from them directly. That minimizes shipping.

Factory parts for me. Radiator lasts 150-200k easily.

 

[OwnerCS]

I tried to straighten out the fins. There is not much that I can do for it. That part of the radiator is not in the main cooling payload area. If it lasts half as long as the original at 22 years, I will be more than satisfied.

 

[Craptaztic]

Will the CSF or Mishimoto radiator take OEM caps or is there a standard 16psi (1.1 bar/atmo) cap that will fit either of them?

 

[Buddysuede]

@Craptaztic I run the CSF and it has been great. I run it with the OEM cap just in case other components in the system cannot handle the extra pressure the CSF is capable of. Zero regrets for me with this one.

 

[Craptaztic]

Will the CSF or Mishimoto radiator take OEM caps or is there a standard 16psi

@Craptaztic I run the CSF and it has been great. I run it with the OEM cap just in case other components in the system cannot handle the extra pressure the CSF is capable of. Zero regrets for me with this one.

Perfect. That is exactly the info I needed.

 

[medtro]

@Craptaztic I run the CSF and it has been great. I run it with the OEM cap just in case other components in the system cannot handle the extra pressure the CSF is capable of. Zero regrets for me with this one.

Is there any leak from the lower rad hose neck?

 

[Buddysuede]

@medtro Absolutely zero leaks so far. It been approximately 1.5 years and ~20K miles so far without issue.

 

[2001LC]

I went to using only Toyota T-Rads, about 5 years ago. They save time as they come with top foam and fitment is always perfect.

When I did used CSF (last was ~2019), with new OEM lower hose and factory clamp. I would see a weep, at lower hose to goose-neck of rad. I found it was mainly due to a casting seam. So I'd file the seam smooth, keeping round shape of pipe. Then fill in void/valley of casting with, FIPG 1282B. Let cure overnight. No more weep.

 

[Buddysuede]

@2001LC I'm running the all aluminum CSF and have had zero issues. What radiator is that in those images? Looks plastic and completely different. I'm talking about this guy. CSF 7207

 

[2001LC]

The one you have, aluminum CSF. I've issue the goose neck for cap. It's a subaru neck, as such only; the CSF rad cap should be used. Which releases at high pressure than spec (Toyota cap). The radiator has no warning informing shops, they must use CSF cap. Which has a different pressure and depth into neck. Using anything but, may result in improper function. A rabbit hole we travel down, when OEM not used!


I was writing about this plastic CSF for $250:

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/csf-oe-quality-radiator-g1000130859csf/10744280-P

 

[Craptaztic]

I went to using only Toyota T-Rads, about 5 years ago. They save time as they come with top foam and fitment is always perfect.

When I did used CSF (last was ~2019), with new OEM lower hose and factory clamp. I would see a weep, at lower hose to goose-neck of rad. I found it was mainly due to a casting seam. So I'd file the seam smooth, keeping round shape of pipe. Then fill in void/valley of casting with, FIPG 1282B. Let cure overnight. No more weep.

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Was that a CSF? I didn't know they made plastic/metal style radiators for the 100. Not that I want a plastic rad but we've been discussing the all-aluminum rads from CSF or Mishimoto as possible alternatives to OEM. Wait that's been asked and answered.

BUT the aluminum CSF for the 100 takes an OEM cap per @Buddysuede who is currently runs one that way. The Mishimoto takes the subaru caps.