Yes. That is showing the left is pointed out and the right is pointed in. How are the rear control arm bushings and rear panhard bushings?
Begging the Collective Mud Brain: after 1.5 years and 3 mechanics, post-lift handling still sucks!!!
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Yes. That is showing the left is pointed out and the right is pointed in. How are the rear control arm bushings and rear panhard bushings?
I know you said your sway bars are there, but have you checked the bushings and made sure all the bolts are tight? If the problem was just wandering I'd look at your alignment setup, however, if you say it's tippy I think you have worn out sway bar bushings. Also, have you checked the alignment of your rear axle? Additionally, check that the pan hard bushings are in good shape along with the pan hard Rod bolts being tightened up to spec?
Good luck, sorting these things out always sucks.
Good luck, sorting these things out always sucks.
You say the right side is 1/2" higher, I believe it should be the left that's higher. I put the taller springs on the left side and mine drives great.
Not on my LC but I have had terrible experiences with bad shocks, I change shocks first, no matter my symptom's.
Not on my LC but I have had terrible experiences with bad shocks, I change shocks first, no matter my symptom's.
I was thinking that too... the springs are reversed of what they say because they are made in Australia.
" 6. Springs have white tabs on them with the spring identification, for example OME850 DS. Make sure that you have the both DS and PS springs for both the front and the rear.
7. IMPORTANT. In the US, with left hand drive vehicles, if the springs are labeled DS and PS, we install the DS (Driver Side) springs on the PS (Passenger Side) and visa versa. The springs are labeled for the right hand drive vehicles. If you can not locate the labels, or you have used springs, make sure you mark the springs that you remove from your vehicle and match long with the long and the short with the short springs.
Lately some springs are labeled A and B. A is for Australian driver side, so in the US this should go on the passenger side and B should go on the driver side. "
Slee - OME Suspension Installation (Toyota 80 Series Land Cruiser)
" 6. Springs have white tabs on them with the spring identification, for example OME850 DS. Make sure that you have the both DS and PS springs for both the front and the rear.
7. IMPORTANT. In the US, with left hand drive vehicles, if the springs are labeled DS and PS, we install the DS (Driver Side) springs on the PS (Passenger Side) and visa versa. The springs are labeled for the right hand drive vehicles. If you can not locate the labels, or you have used springs, make sure you mark the springs that you remove from your vehicle and match long with the long and the short with the short springs.
Lately some springs are labeled A and B. A is for Australian driver side, so in the US this should go on the passenger side and B should go on the driver side. "
Slee - OME Suspension Installation (Toyota 80 Series Land Cruiser)
I also have the 2.5 full heavy kit and added a 30mm Man-A-Free spacers up front. When I installed the lift it would dart all over the highway over 50mph. I added the Slee Caster Correction plates and it settled back down.
+1 on spending some time investigating the rear.
Things that I have found with my 311k suspension: All rubber is shot
-the rear sway bar bushings had shrunk to the point the sway bar moved 1" before anything "caught" and actually started providing anti-sway properties
-same story with rear lower shock bushings. Could physically move the shock body about .5" with my hands
-lower control arm bushings providing minimal support--cracked and dry-rotted
-radius arm bushings are the same
-OME system has been in place for long enough that the springs are more rusted than the rest of the undercarriage--this means the caster bushings are probably just as shot as the stock bushings, if not more
If your new steering box doesn't do the trick, replace all the rubber.
-the rear sway bar bushings had shrunk to the point the sway bar moved 1" before anything "caught" and actually started providing anti-sway properties
-same story with rear lower shock bushings. Could physically move the shock body about .5" with my hands
-lower control arm bushings providing minimal support--cracked and dry-rotted
-radius arm bushings are the same
-OME system has been in place for long enough that the springs are more rusted than the rest of the undercarriage--this means the caster bushings are probably just as shot as the stock bushings, if not more
If your new steering box doesn't do the trick, replace all the rubber.
I am no expert in any way, shape or form, but would the drag link need to be adjusted after a lift? Could this be that the drag link is to short now?
I sort of have the same issue but I have my front sway bar disconnected right now so this could be a contributing factor.
I sort of have the same issue but I have my front sway bar disconnected right now so this could be a contributing factor.
Yeah, check the steer box first before R&R. The adjustment may indeed help. Check proper adjustment procedure in FSM for good results, don't just start cranking it down.
Not mentioned yet, but also potentially a steer box issue and not good news, although repairable...there have been instances of cracking on the frame underneath with the steer box mounts. Visual inspection should reveal and search here is your friend for past examples.
Not mentioned yet, but also potentially a steer box issue and not good news, although repairable...there have been instances of cracking on the frame underneath with the steer box mounts. Visual inspection should reveal and search here is your friend for past examples.
How many miles on your LC? Obvious question, but with the OME lift, were new shocks and stabilizer installed also? I have the OME Heavy lift with nitrocharger shocks, steering dampener and caster kit. I come from the Jeep world so don't have another LC to compare it to buts its the best handling lifted vehicle I've ever driven.
Yeah something is definitely off. Your setup isn't all that extreme to be hard to drive. My 80 with a similar setup and less castor correction is easy to drive with one hand even in heavy traffic.
This may be a really stupid observation...I was really confused on why mine was so twitchy after the lift. Turns out that when my new tires were put on at 500 feet above sea level, they were over-inflated. When I got to Moab and went to air down after the most white-knuckled ride of my life for three days, I found my tires to be inflated over 90 pounds. Every time I hit the brakes or let off the gas, I was all over both lanes of the interstate. I never even thought to check the inflation because they were installed the day before I left. After that, it handled fine. The Fox shocks have a little more initial lean-in than I would like but it's not twitchy.
I have 2.5 OME mediums, FOX shocks, OME damper, TJM castor correction bushings and it rides great.
I have 2.5 OME mediums, FOX shocks, OME damper, TJM castor correction bushings and it rides great.
another thing is rear wheel bearings these have a free floating rear end and they come loose I know mine did
Why is no one mentioning the shocks? Check your shocks to see if they are still working!
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- #37
Thanks RJ.
- Thread starter
- #38
In case anyone's following this, just heard from my mechanic and the rebuilt steering box is worse than mine!
The search is back on...
And TJ said the rear swaybar is canted up on one end due to the 2.5" lift--he's going to lengthen it and see if it helps.
The search is back on...
And TJ said the rear swaybar is canted up on one end due to the 2.5" lift--he's going to lengthen it and see if it helps.
Do you have any pics of what's going on with the suspension?