Installed it. Started up and immediately got the battery symbol on the dash.
Any ideas?
Any ideas?
Battery Replacment Recommendations (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Hokie LX
- Start date
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It’s installed backwards
James Bentley
SILVER Star
some things get better
some things are good and great just the way they are ,
my OEM TOYOTA TRU-STARTS , made by interstate here in the lower 48 , ALL group 27's F and NON-F , 2002 TACO Pre-runner has group 24 , im coasting on 10+ years average , by topping off with yes , Distilled water at each seasonal FALL maintenance time
- i also remove , polishes bright the top lead posts , w/ 220 emery cloth , then wrap it around my pointer finger , polish the inner rims , and use a ACID bryush and apply a MED. generous amount of this to both terminals and inside the OEM YAZAKA Japan terminals bands too , i swear , like 100 fols on the OEM YAZAKI red flex accordion boots at B+ terminal , and down at main starter lug , ALL locations get this :
- these 2 OEM japan Spec. YAZAKI service terminals are unique , there M8 Studs are a a TAD longer then other ones and BOTH have color keyed plastic bottom plates cover features to then , MOST i see on toyota's today DO NOT ?
- i DO NOT use serrated M8 flange nuts on the male studs , i opt for marine grade stainless steel smooth ones , my choice there , less mangle lees issues ...
- Fully Synthetic marine Grade Food Service di-Electric Grease
- this has been my approach and recipe for issue free , proper fit , form and function for since T-TEN in the mid 1990's ....
- that round cavity is where the M8 service nut goes , a little happy nest / keeper ...i like happy little keepers
- i use ALL these parts incorporated into my unique take on , my hand-assembled 40 , 60 battery cables too , factory FIT FORM and FUCTION , all japan spec parts too ! \
.
,
.
.
some things are good and great just the way they are ,
my OEM TOYOTA TRU-STARTS , made by interstate here in the lower 48 , ALL group 27's F and NON-F , 2002 TACO Pre-runner has group 24 , im coasting on 10+ years average , by topping off with yes , Distilled water at each seasonal FALL maintenance time
- i also remove , polishes bright the top lead posts , w/ 220 emery cloth , then wrap it around my pointer finger , polish the inner rims , and use a ACID bryush and apply a MED. generous amount of this to both terminals and inside the OEM YAZAKA Japan terminals bands too , i swear , like 100 fols on the OEM YAZAKI red flex accordion boots at B+ terminal , and down at main starter lug , ALL locations get this :
- these 2 OEM japan Spec. YAZAKI service terminals are unique , there M8 Studs are a a TAD longer then other ones and BOTH have color keyed plastic bottom plates cover features to then , MOST i see on toyota's today DO NOT ?
- i DO NOT use serrated M8 flange nuts on the male studs , i opt for marine grade stainless steel smooth ones , my choice there , less mangle lees issues ...
- Fully Synthetic marine Grade Food Service di-Electric Grease
- this has been my approach and recipe for issue free , proper fit , form and function for since T-TEN in the mid 1990's ....
- that round cavity is where the M8 service nut goes , a little happy nest / keeper ...i like happy little keepers
- i use ALL these parts incorporated into my unique take on , my hand-assembled 40 , 60 battery cables too , factory FIT FORM and FUCTION , all japan spec parts too ! \
.
,
.
.
Last edited:
I don’t know the whole FOOD SERVICE end of this but it has a pile of uses …
Pick up a 6 pack of WEST SYSTEM EpoXy Syringes and a fist full of 7-11 coffee wood stirres , this is how I re-load them to precision inject all my male and female electrical connectors inside my Toyotas and out , bulb sockets too !
Pick up a 6 pack of WEST SYSTEM EpoXy Syringes and a fist full of 7-11 coffee wood stirres , this is how I re-load them to precision inject all my male and female electrical connectors inside my Toyotas and out , bulb sockets too !
I just did these 2 ctr small little crevices to show its precession metering !
When u stop
pushing the syringe 
top it stops !
Pretty killler kool and neat and tidy too …
This is the way …..
.
When u stop
pushing the syringe top it stops !Pretty killler kool and neat and tidy too …
This is the way …..
.
- Thread starter
- #147
FWIW to follow up on this thread I started years ago, my Group 49 battery from Napa was great for the past 6 years and I never had any issues with it. I replaced it recently chasing down some electrical nuances and realized it was not the problem. I replaced it with another Group 49 Napa Legend Premium AGM.
I have the same battery. 3yrs old and after a week or two of no use it reads 12.3v or 12.4v, should I be concerned?
I eventually recharge it, but was wondering if this seems normal.
- Thread starter
- #149
No, resting voltage is usually around there. It's normal.
I dont have this setup so I cannot really comment on that. But one thing I see here which may or may not be good is that following - I can see this setup having a see-saw effect. Where the Terminal is being rocked UP like a see-saw "IF" the rear copper end is a lot heavier. Its like a torque effect. So basically make sure this screw on the "P" section is torqued down correctly. Hopefully not crazy tight where it can break the billet.
My group 49 battery is a Duracell from Batteries+
The measurement from the center of the positive post to the edge of the *raised* vent section of the battery top is exactly one inch.
The corners with the posts are essentially inset into the top of the battery - biggest issue would likely be being able to connect them only very straight as in your photo above.
I can see that with the shorter battery, fusible link weight, and bulkier billet terminals. Thanks!
I use a group 49 battery this is a picture of mine.
I hope this helps you.
I hope this helps you.
