basement remodel questions

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didn't get to borrow the xray thingy will report back after I mark depth and locations of lines under slab..

After you guys have explained stuff it doesn't sound all that hard to do.. hardest part is cutting and removing concrete. I can tie into existsing stubbed dry vent as it's just round the corner from where i'm going with the bathroom. I'll have one of my buddies come over and assess running hvac and return as well next time he stops by.
Trainrech is bringing me a framing nailer to the meeting.. Saves me from buying one. (have other nailers just not framing)
Have a buddy who is going to loan me a quickie saw with hose hookup as well when i'm ready. (BONUS)
I'll get HVAC stuff started including return line in other basement room. Why not! Don't have to use it but I can start of it now.

Thoughts on pocket door hardware. This half bath isn't going to be very large.. it's a half bath! a pocket door to it and the other room would be very beneficial. Looks like framing depends on hardware purchased. From my research this is the best company for pocket door hardware stuff
Johnson Hardware® POCKET DOOR HARDWARE
Anyone have other sources?

Trying to do this as $ allows.. Luckily the house came with a pile of lumber in the basement. it's all neatly stacked in 2 spots.
Subfloor goes in before walls? or walls first?.. Was looking at Dricore panels. have little rubber feet bonded to plywood.

Ok. Steer me. I know I'm asking lots of questions but I have an audience of knowledgeable folks.
Looks like i put up xps foam on exterior walls (no mold growth) according to building science corporation pdf on building practices. Not sure on thickness. then either furring strips or 2x4 normal building practices. Those 2 measurements will determine distance from existing wall the stub goes for toilet.

The current walls in basement are just on the slab that's the reason i'm asking bout subfloor before or after walls. Seems strange they didn't do that on the existing hallway. And I'd have no subfloor in the garage/shop part cause i'll probably expoxy that area later.

Ok Fire away at the newbie please and thank you.

Lastly. for vent garage sink since there is an I beam above and hvac ductwork above I'll probably do a captured vent in the wall with a breather panel for access. Code states it has to be at least 4" ? above trap. I'm thinking I can easily put it in the wall with access panel in the back of a kitchen cabinet mounted above. That drain line "Should" be about a foot from the base of the wall. that one will be easy to tie into.
 
Wow, that was a mouthful

Thoughts on pocket door hardware. This half bath isn't going to be very large.. it's a half bath! a pocket door to it and the other room would be very beneficial. Looks like framing depends on hardware purchased. From my research this is the best company for pocket door hardware stuff
Johnson Hardware® POCKET DOOR HARDWARE
Anyone have other sources?

Although pocket door hardware and framing kits are available at about any big box store, I do not recommend them in a basement. I find that they are too flimsy in a moisture rich enviornment, (they are made of 3/4 x 1 1/2 furring strips) and they typically bow after a few months. That bowing makes the pocket door rub when you open it. So, to stop this, I like to frame it with metal studs. The wall ends up 6" deep instead of the 4" with drywall. I will draw a picture for you later. The hardware I prefer is Johnson. I purchased through McCray lumber, but you should be able to find at Home Depot or Lowes.


Trying to do this as $ allows.. Luckily the house came with a pile of lumber in the basement. it's all neatly stacked in 2 spots.
Subfloor goes in before walls? or walls first?.. Was looking at Dricore panels. have little rubber feet bonded to plywood.

Why do you need a subfloor? Moisture issues? What flooring are you going with? Either way walls would come first (using that subfloor method) but I question your need for it. If you go tile or resiliant flooring, no subfloor please!


Ok. Steer me. I know I'm asking lots of questions but I have an audience of knowledgeable folks.
Looks like i put up xps foam on exterior walls (no mold growth) according to building science corporation pdf on building practices. Not sure on thickness. then either furring strips or 2x4 normal building practices. Those 2 measurements will determine distance from existing wall the stub goes for toilet.

I agree with the solid foam on exterior walls. In regard to the framing method, to me this is a question on how straight (plumb) your outside walls are and if they are earth contact (on the other side of the wall) or not? Remember that concrete is not a good insulator. If there is no earth on the other side to insulate, the -10 degree wind it is going to make your concrete stinking cold. Plan on R12 or more on a non- earth concrete wall, which means you need to frame up with a 2 x 4. Again, I prefer metal in a basement... you will never have rot. If your walls are out of plumb by more than an inch, I also frame up with either 2 x 3 or 2 x 4. I usually taper the boards to fit the walls to maximize the size of the room. So, that brings us to the third option. Straight concrete, and no big insulation needs. Then I use 3/4 pressure treated furring strips. Nail and glue them to the wall at 16" intervals. Use a concrete nailer with short nails. This uses a .22 charge, so you will feel like you at home at the gun counter. Insulate with 3/4 foam between the strips by gluing to the wall and to the drywall.

If you are drywalling the ceiling, put furring strips on the ceiling at 24" increment to even out the wavy ceiling. I am not going to ask if you have a wavy ceiling, because they all are. This will also help prevent future cracking. You will want 5/8 rock for the ceiling and 1/2 for the walls. If you want sound deading between floors, we have another long conversation of how to do that. For a man cave, instulation may be good. That way, you really can't hear Jenn call for you to come out.





The current walls in basement are just on the slab that's the reason i'm asking bout subfloor before or after walls. Seems strange they didn't do that on the existing hallway. And I'd have no subfloor in the garage/shop part cause i'll probably expoxy that area later.


Lastly. for vent garage sink since there is an I beam above and hvac ductwork above I'll probably do a captured vent in the wall with a breather panel for access. Code states it has to be at least 4" ? above trap. I'm thinking I can easily put it in the wall with access panel in the back of a kitchen cabinet mounted above. That drain line "Should" be about a foot from the base of the wall. that one will be easy to tie into.

For the garage sink Studor maxi vent (again) is the way to go. The code is measured from the trap, so I usually have space to put them under the sink, in the back, with a riser. That way no access panal is needed.
 
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Eric,
Kelly pretty much hits the nail on the head. My only thoughts are if you have a moisture rich environment you first better address that problem, because if it is wet you're gonna have more problems than what he's mentioned, the question is when will it show. Get some clear plastic, several peices 18" square or so. Duct tape a piece to each concrete wall and one to the floor, making sure that all four edges are completely sealed. Watch it daily and if you have moisture coming through the concrete you will see the concrete looking wet and moisture on the plastic. If you do, which I expect you will, means that your first step after replacing the concrete floor will be to seal the floor and the walls. Also I believe that code requires any wood that touches concrete must be pressure treated. I also like the 2x4's for exterior basement walls spaced in as necessary for insulation, straightening and plumbing(both kinds of plumb). Ceiling, spray paint the joists with kilz, insulate with unfaced insulation for sound if you want, drywall the ceiling or suspend a ceiling. Drywall isn't my preference because it closes up electrical and plumbing access to upstairs, unless you will have flammables in basement, then it's 5/8 fire rock, two layers in the garage wouldn't be out of line. Suspended ceilings are gonna lower the ceiling and make it look like a cave. Might be appropriate. Paint is cheap if it's acceptable. Remeber when you are planning where your walls will go that if you put a wall under a beam that any door in that wall will probably have to be cut. If you use prehung doors the door knobs usually are about the right height for dwarfs after cutting the doors off. It usually works better to put the wall on the side of the beam and the swing all doors away from the beam. You might consider not even putting a sink in the 1/2 bath if the garage sink is close. I have also seen concrete walls skimmed and painted, just kinda depeneds on how much you want to invest.
CraigC
 
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Rob can i borrow your concrete nailer for a while? PLease. and thank you. In no hurry meeting is fine but only if you don't need it back immediately.

Craig.. Strangly headroom isn't an issue in the basement. it's not 10 foot ceilings by any means but there are 2 doors in the little hallway that go to the stairs and they're fullsize. I didn't look at "under the beam" didnt' even think of that tho. there will be need for one door under the beam.
I"m in no major hurry but it will make it much more pleasurable to work down there if I make it "my" shop instead of a basement and I don't have to take off my shoes to go upstairs to use the head.
 
Chris.. You stil have my basement design in your computer? can you draw it up without moving the plumbing? I could just go the easy route and utilize the existing stubs and make the area I was planning on putting the bathroom "storage"..
 
Will do tape on floor with clear plastic. This is fun.. you guys barking orders and I get to see if I can follow correctly.
 
I did measure the height to the "I" beam where one door will go. by measuring a door next to it it appears I have plenty of room to not have to cut down and build a "height challenged person" door. THink I had an extra 1.5" or so above the frame (box) of the other door.

Didn't get to the moisture test yet. Was going thru boxes in the garage and organizing by project and truck and junk and ebay piles. (time consuming)
When we got the place there was a moisture problem on one wall in the garage. I did redirect the gutters (which drained back towards the foundation!) and drylocked one wall. that fixed the one known problem. I wasn't about to move my garage shelves in if it leaked. I think it would be best to drylock walls before doing anything cause ya can't get to it once there is a wall in place!
 
Hey, question for you. Thinking of using an old front bib with marker lights on my 75' -- the Treeroot conversion.

You have any old ones sitting around in the piles? Will work for parts....
 
For both side marker lights and front ones that are under your headlights on older bibs..
Pop out the plastic part under the lightbulb. Snap in new one that has 2 wire contacts instead of 1. Pop in new bulb that has park and turn, rewire and your done. it doesn't even do any damage to the bulb housing. I did that on the 40 when I shaved the turn signals off the fenders. I might have the little parts that snap into the bottom at the house. or easily off shelf at parts store. I can probalby have most of it waiting for you at the house with an example.

The part under the bulb will need to be pushed sideways a touch to release the base. There is a spring under the base and the wire runs all the way thru the whole assembly. It'll take you longer to run the wiring from your junction block on the fender than to do the conversion.
 
Exactly what I want to do... I only have post 75 bibs without the marker lights. I thought about drilling new holes, but they don't appear to look right without the stamped recess. So, I am looking for a old bib to do this.
 
YOur needing the front bib or the side skirts for above the fenders? I think i confused myself. Either way you'll need to stop by. or let me know before the meeting so I can bring with.
I have both. Finding the lights to go in is a tad harder but I am pretty sure I know where both extras are now. Been doing some major garage cleaning. Sadly Jennifer and I love the show Hoarders.. And I had to admit I are one(with cruiser parts).. so doing a self intervention by organizing and cleaning the clutter.
 
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Sounds good. Was planning on stopping by to look at your project anyway.

k
 
Hey, did you know an licensed electrician?
 
Kelly.. In looking at pics of your project. it appears your needing the side bibs and corresponding marker lights so you can shave the turn signals off your fenders.. And are wanting to change your existing front bib lights to a park/turn assembly. In english you want the front lights to go from an 1156 to an 1157 bulb. and it appears you need the side skirts with the integrated marker lights cause yours don't have those currently. If i'm reading this correctly then I now know what i need to "find" in the pile and will do my best to have it ready for you. Pretty sure I have all of these things and will attempt to find the proper socket conversion pieces as well prior to your arrival. I know I found 2 of the bases for the socket conversions last night.

Confirm the parts your looking for so i can dig the appropriate things out thus making your visit to my domain as effecient and rewarding as possible. Meaning i'd rather have exactly what your looking for awaiting your arrival. The side marker lights can also be converted from 1156 to 1157. I'll do my best to find all this stuff.

HOpe tax season is going well for you.

And lastly are you asking for an electrician or you are one? I"m corn-fused on that question.

Once you confirm the above I will dig thru the hoard. Later...
 
Yeah, it is confusing when you are dealing with me -- I always have about 20 projects going on.

Here is what I am interested in doing on my "other" original fj project.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/89360-fun-40-parts.html

He took a later model 40 without the round marker lights below and inside of the headlights on the bib, and added them by taking an older pre 70's bib, and altered it to fit a mid 70's FJ.

So, I am looking for the bib, I have a set of lights from Toyota, and I need to do the conversion you talked about to add the turn light. I feel like I can do that, but if you have the stuff already, I can buy that from you too.

On the electrician, I can do about anything, just don't have a stamp from the state saying I can. My office needs some work done, and we need a licensed electrician to run a couple circuits. Office will not pay for it if it is too expensive, so I am looking for someone that will work with me. I can run the 100 foot of line in the ceiling (to code) just need someone to wire it up.
 
Don't have an electrician, you will be mine (sounded all valentine like didn't it)

Have bib. was unsure if you needed front bib or side skirts. All I ask is you return what your not using as the bib was to be wall art in the shop. it needs some work but not a ton. Very easily accessable ..

Was just delivered the ground penetrating radar thingy to use this weekend!
 
tornadoalleycruiser said:
Was just delivered the ground penetrating radar thingy to use this weekend!
Click to expand...

That's going to be some serious doppler :D

Oh, instead of the pocket door idea have you considered just sliding doors (I call it barn door). It's what all the cool kids are doing, and sooo much easier to frame. It solved my cramped laundry room/garage entry problem. But you don't need the expensive Johnson Hardware stuff.

I've also done the basement floor stain. It looked incredible, and got thumbs up from all, even the inspector. But patience is a virtue because the prep work... well you know. Looks like you've got plenty of help/advice, but if you need more.
 
so, I have been lurking on this thread. Erik, if you need any help let me know. I'm happy to help frame in your basement. We can do it in a weekend or over a few evenings! Just let me know!!!
 
Zane.. Don't even think for a minute you were gonna get out of helping me.
X-ray thingy didn't work for me.. probably user error or lack of the "transmitting signal" part of the item. So.. Once find drains will report back. Probably rent the fish thingy and go thru the cleanouts of which I know I have 3.
 
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