Bannana needs help. 30mm crank bolt siezed?

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Azca said:
Have you tried a come-a-long yet? That may be scary, in and of itself, though... :hmm:
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No. But entertained the idea of using a static tow strap and a tow point on the ford. But....no. If I was in the bush. Yes. Driveway. Nah.

This is like a game of how many different ways can you pull out a loose tooth.

Per above: level 1. I have a dude that's as wide as he is tall (stone mason) coming over in the next day or so.

Just ordered the torque multiplier from Amazon arrives Thursday. Same price point as the gun and hoses. Maybe more utility at EOD ?

All returnable.
 
You can make a sst easily no welding required. Need a peice of 3/8" 2" wide bar stock long enough to go from the far side of the crank pulley to past the frame then lay it on the crank pullet a little past and mark the center of the bolt and the center of the 2 threaded holes. Use the large hole saw to cut a half moon section out large enough to fit your socket. Drill the 2 smaller holes and thread in correct sized bolts through the bar and into the pulley until very snug. Tire it to the frame rail and then put a long cheater bar on the breaker bar and pull like hell. I did mine with the motor on a stand. I set the end of the tool on a jack stand. Was tricky because it kept wanting the pick the motor up on the pivot point that arrangement made
 
First off, with the impact gun, you should not need to heat, or to put the 14mm socket in the flexplate. Try it with impact only first, you may be impressed.


Questions:
1) is there a link on mud to pulling the Rad? I know it is straight forward enough in the FSM...but I'm a visual learner.
pull bottom hose first, drain as much out as you can, while taking the cap off to allow to vent. take top hose off, the hose to overflow and the small one in the middle. While that is draining, loosen the tightner on the alternator, and then pull four bolts on fan blade (on waterpump). Take two bolts off shroud at top, then pull the shroud with the fan.
There are two bolts you have to take off from the front of the vehicle, that secure the radiator. you need to pull the grill, turn lights and headlights. Really takes about 5 minutes to do this. Bolt is 10mm if I recall correctly. use 1/4 extension to get to them. Two more bolts down on the sides of the radiator, then pull the two transmission cooler lines and plug immediatly with some bolts.

Done.


2) if I heat the bolt, do I need to replace with a new one? ie do I mess up its strength/temper? DONT HEAT THEM UP.

3) the rad and its hoses are less than a year old. But might try to replace low pressure PS hoses and the other ones down at the bottom right side - whatever those are? Those are tranny cooler lines. replace with transission bulk lines.
 
2fpower said:
First off, with the impact gun, you should not need to heat, or to put the 14mm socket in the flexplate. Try it with impact only first, you may be impressed.


Questions:
1) is there a link on mud to pulling the Rad? I know it is straight forward enough in the FSM...but I'm a visual learner.
pull bottom hose first, drain as much out as you can, while taking the cap off to allow to vent. take top hose off, the hose to overflow and the small one in the middle. While that is draining, loosen the tightner on the alternator, and then pull four bolts on fan blade (on waterpump). Take two bolts off shroud at top, then pull the shroud with the fan.
There are two bolts you have to take off from the front of the vehicle, that secure the radiator. you need to pull the grill, turn lights and headlights. Really takes about 5 minutes to do this. Bolt is 10mm if I recall correctly. use 1/4 extension to get to them. Two more bolts down on the sides of the radiator, then pull the two transmission cooler lines and plug immediatly with some bolts.

Done.


2) if I heat the bolt, do I need to replace with a new one? ie do I mess up its strength/temper? DONT HEAT THEM UP.

3) the rad and its hoses are less than a year old. But might try to replace low pressure PS hoses and the other ones down at the bottom right side - whatever those are? Those are tranny cooler lines. replace with transission bulk lines.
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Propane torch would not overheat your bolt. Apply heat for a minute or so from approximately opposite sides of the bolt head.
 
scoba said:
Propane torch would not overheat your bolt. Apply heat for a minute or so from approximately opposite sides of the bolt head.
Click to expand...

I am not saying it will overheat it. Just don't see any value to doing it. The threads are not close to the head. My comment was hook up the impact and let it do the work - you may be surprised.
 
2fpower said:
I am not saying it will overheat it. Just don't see any value to doing it. The threads are not close to the head. My comment was hook up the impact and let it do the work - you may be surprised.
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There is nothing to do with threads. the heat will expand metal and move head of the bolt away from the pulley which will make cracking it easy.
 
image.webp
Tool fairy showed up with not one, but two impact guns.

Now how the heck am I gonna decide which one to use.

Prob the 1200k.
 
You don't need a huge CFM air compressor. Hit it for a couple of seconds, let the air pressure rebuild and do it again.
 
Just get the torque multiplier and be done with it. Remember you aren't just taking it off. It has to be torqued back on (to a certain spec, or close) as well. You can't do that with an impact or by 'feel' with a cheater pipe.
 
I have a torque multiplier coming too.

I agree that if I can do it with that I'm golden. If not, I got bigger issues.

Not sure why they shipped two impact guns. regardless. Whatever I don't use gets returned.
 
well.
Torque multiplier showed up.
Leaned on it. Leaned on it with a friend. Applied some heat to the head for the heck of it.

Nope. No go.

So now.

Do I pull the rad and try the impact or make peace with it for now and button it back up?

image.webp
 
indeed - i was always on "team impact gun" - alought it required pulling (which also means draining) the rad.

more than 2-3 bump stops was getting me a bit nervous -
then to be putting that much constant - dull "low gear" torque- with cheeter bars and mutipliers on the power convertor with the 14 mm socket against the bell housing was also a bit unnerving to me....

hopefully - with you air cat gtg - you can give it one 2 sec. blast at full reverse ft/lbs and the bolt will finally be free....

keep us posted - was looking for you post.

bF
 
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Oi. Put a bigger breaker on the torque multiplier and now the 14mm socket can't hold on the converter. Doesn't look damaged.

But dang....hearing metal clang to the ground under the truck when I was yanking on it. Should have been wearing brown colored pants.
 
baselfish said:
indeed - i was always on "team impact gun"

bF
Click to expand...

So. Yeah. That impact gun. Hmmm.

Anyone want to buy a slightly used torque multiplier?
 
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well. This just got really interesting quick.

How F'd am I?
 
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Good helpers.
Dry fitting the cat.
Left my air hose at work.
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Fail. @120 psi
Not sure about my options now.
 
Did you also try to tighten it with the impact wrench? Sometimes if you tighten then loosen magical things happen. Also hitting the bolt face with a hammer can sometimes work.

Next things to try:

- CRC freeze off then hit it with the impact
- Propane torch until hot then hit with impact (who knows, maybe someone did this before and used loctite)

It'll be noisy but you will have to full throttle that impact wrench for a while.

These situations remind me of the safe break on Bad Santa. Throw everything you have at it with apparently no progress and just one final tap and it pops open. Good luck man!
 
Ok,
Now its desperation time. Nothing's off the table.
I have a FJ60 w a 2F & manual transmission (with heavy flywheel).

Although the 2F engine is very different than yours, I think the method I used to loosen my crank pulley nut is worth a try since you haven't tried it yet, and it worked for me.

I don't know if you can set up the wrench like I did on your 80, but if you can, this method was a success for me. Link below-

Whoa! I'm having crank seal woes...
 
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