Bannana needs help. 30mm crank bolt siezed?
- Thread starter HardyDanger
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- Thread starter
- #22
...been out leaning on a 4' breaker, with the hood tied up to the rear bumper, with the 14mm deep socket on the torq converter. nada movement. Couldn't convince my wife to push on it (she's 105 wet so she'd prob have to jump on it) I might try with my neighbor in the morning.
I proclaim it's beer:30
pour yourselves one on me. thanks for all the advice!
re: impact guns: home dopey has a husky 1/2" 800ft/lbs ($109) and a husky 3/4" 1400ft/lbs ($249) on the shelf.
now...hoping my compressor will power it.
I proclaim it's beer:30
pour yourselves one on me. thanks for all the advice!re: impact guns: home dopey has a husky 1/2" 800ft/lbs ($109) and a husky 3/4" 1400ft/lbs ($249) on the shelf.
now...hoping my compressor will power it.
This. I let my 3/4" breaker bar "hang" about an inch. It was still roped to the frame but a little loose.
- Thread starter
- #25
ditto. there was about an inch...then BANGGG!!!....
If you don't want to remove the radiator and use an impact then a 'Torque Multiplier' will do the job.
Heat up the bolt with propane torch (yellow bottle) direct the flame on to the head of the bolt perpendicular to it not towards the pulley so you do not damage the rubber, should be going easy after that. It worked for me.
I can't imagine one of these bolts not coming off using the lock the flywheel method. Here's what I could imagine ....
1) you are not strong enough even with the cheater bar
2) you just aren't giving it your all because your scared of breaking something
3) your turning it the wrong way
Don't take this the wrong way, just some ideas. I've done 4-5 of these, one this morning actually, and taking that bolt off has never been an issue. I'm fairly strong and it does take a decent pull on that breaker bar before the bolt makes its distinctive crack. After that you can take them off with your hand. Also, make sure you have the 6 point socket and not the more common 12, because if you round that bolt off you are f'd. One last thing, lots of people try to save time and effort leaving the radiator in. I'm convinced it does neither and always opt to pull it when I do this job.
1) you are not strong enough even with the cheater bar
2) you just aren't giving it your all because your scared of breaking something
3) your turning it the wrong way
Don't take this the wrong way, just some ideas. I've done 4-5 of these, one this morning actually, and taking that bolt off has never been an issue. I'm fairly strong and it does take a decent pull on that breaker bar before the bolt makes its distinctive crack. After that you can take them off with your hand. Also, make sure you have the 6 point socket and not the more common 12, because if you round that bolt off you are f'd. One last thing, lots of people try to save time and effort leaving the radiator in. I'm convinced it does neither and always opt to pull it when I do this job.
- Thread starter
- #29
Ha. Love it. I've been muddling over those three points for the last hour!
6pt sockets. Check. Learned that lesson long ago.
I can rule out number 3.
Re 2. Is a distinct probability. And by breaking something. It was me, I had a vision of me cracking the nut then me sailing backwards to the pavement in a free fall fail!!
Re 1. It's also possible. Not gonna rule it out, didn't eat my wheaties this morn and I'm fighting a tennis elbow thing so trying to be smart about it.
Somewhat related to your struggle:
I was replacing the timing belt on a friends Highlander. Crank bolt needs removed to access it. Tried the breaker-bar/starter bump method two dozen times with no results. Bought the HF 1/2" earthquake (700ft-lbs reverse) impact... still no luck. Took it to a shop to get the bolt off. He used lots of heat and a 3/4" impact... still took a good 15 seconds of hammering to finally break loose.
Hope you're able to find a solution. Also, it can help to pull your pipe/breaker bar in hard "impacts" rather than slowly adding more and more torque. Not nearly as instantaneous as an impact gun, but still helpful.
I was replacing the timing belt on a friends Highlander. Crank bolt needs removed to access it. Tried the breaker-bar/starter bump method two dozen times with no results. Bought the HF 1/2" earthquake (700ft-lbs reverse) impact... still no luck. Took it to a shop to get the bolt off. He used lots of heat and a 3/4" impact... still took a good 15 seconds of hammering to finally break loose.
Hope you're able to find a solution. Also, it can help to pull your pipe/breaker bar in hard "impacts" rather than slowly adding more and more torque. Not nearly as instantaneous as an impact gun, but still helpful.
I had the exact same vision when I first did one from inside the fender well. I think some people have made it seem like it lets loose and there is this bolt of lightening followed by an earthquake. It really is just a loud crack, you won't hit yourself, just don't pull the bar towards your face. I don't know how tall you are but I have done the last 3 standing outside of the vehicle on the ground.
- Thread starter
- #32
So here is my plan for tomorrow.
Level 1)
Radiator still in. Apply mapp gas heat direct to bolt. Use 4' breaker and 14mm socket + an extra body or two.
Strategically. Leaving in the radiator pisses off my HOA 39% less.
Level 2)
Pull radiator. heat. Impact gun 1/2" 900+ft lbs . And Rent 14 cmf compressor. My 3.5 cmf comp for the nail gun ain't gonna cut the mustard.
Level 3)
Flat bed the whole mess to "Big Tony's wrecking yard". Ply him with wads of cash 18 jelly donuts and a case of coors light and have him do it.
Then tow it back, finish up the job and nice and quietly at home.
Level 4)
This is a parallel path: A spa day for my wife for putting up with our new family member's ecentricities and wonton neediness.
Level 1)
Radiator still in. Apply mapp gas heat direct to bolt. Use 4' breaker and 14mm socket + an extra body or two.
Strategically. Leaving in the radiator pisses off my HOA 39% less.
Level 2)
Pull radiator. heat. Impact gun 1/2" 900+ft lbs . And Rent 14 cmf compressor. My 3.5 cmf comp for the nail gun ain't gonna cut the mustard.
Level 3)
Flat bed the whole mess to "Big Tony's wrecking yard". Ply him with wads of cash 18 jelly donuts and a case of coors light and have him do it.
Then tow it back, finish up the job and nice and quietly at home.
Level 4)
This is a parallel path: A spa day for my wife for putting up with our new family member's ecentricities and wonton neediness.
JaketheSSnake
SILVER Star
Lol at level 4! I caught a lot of static from my wife in the 2-3 months I spent going over just about every nut, bolt, and gasket on mine. They definitely get jealous 
Honestly CFM is not the issue. I have done this on a pancake compressor before. All you need 140psi and a good impact wrench. I use the harbor Freight $80 earthquake impact. Done 1/2 dozen or more of these and works every time.
Just had a good friend in same situation. @kc_chevota . He tried everything. Then turned up the air pressure and reduced the flexible air line length, and bam it came off.
Just had a good friend in same situation. @kc_chevota . He tried everything. Then turned up the air pressure and reduced the flexible air line length, and bam it came off.
indeed would concur.... 1/2 impact wrench ~ 900 ft/lbs "should" be sufficient -
CFM is only a issue - for sustained air tool use (grinding, sanding, painting, etc...)
a "modest" pancake compressor should suffice
sadly though - don't have much more to add...
if the bump stop didn't work after 2-3 tries - I wouldn't do it anymore...
I do believe you are on the right track...
pulling the rad (to gain access) appears to be the best -
pb blaster + heat + 14mm wedge in the bell housing....
triple and quad check your impact gun is set properly (lefty loosy) - 12pt 30 mm socket.
have the compressor set at the max PSI setting for your gun - with indeed a short short air hose run -
again - check to make sure gun is set properly and then "hit it"
mud gods willing - the bolt will break free....
keep us posted....feel you pain...
Bf
CFM is only a issue - for sustained air tool use (grinding, sanding, painting, etc...)
a "modest" pancake compressor should suffice
sadly though - don't have much more to add...
if the bump stop didn't work after 2-3 tries - I wouldn't do it anymore...
I do believe you are on the right track...
pulling the rad (to gain access) appears to be the best -
pb blaster + heat + 14mm wedge in the bell housing....
triple and quad check your impact gun is set properly (lefty loosy) - 12pt 30 mm socket.
have the compressor set at the max PSI setting for your gun - with indeed a short short air hose run -
again - check to make sure gun is set properly and then "hit it"
mud gods willing - the bolt will break free....
keep us posted....feel you pain...
Bf
- Thread starter
- #36
Check check! Muddy Claus is coming to town, hopefully he can help!
I'm not in pain yet...I kinda enjoy problems like this, mainly from the learning you get out of it. Pain will come if I have to take her somewhere...and by her, I mean the LC...just made a spa date for my wife, that was a foregone conclusion.
thanks for the notes on the compressor, at work now...looking at the compressor we have here.
its this one: seems like it should be able to do the job.
Makita MAC2400 Big Bore 2.5 HP Air Compressor
by Makita
Link: Makita MAC2400 Big Bore 2.5 HP Air Compressor - Stacked Tank Air Compressors - Amazon.com
I have a 15' line with 3/8" fittings waiting for the nitrocat gun to show from amazon tonight.
Questions:
1) is there a link on mud to pulling the Rad? I know it is straight forward enough in the FSM...but I'm a visual learner.
2) if I heat the bolt, do I need to replace with a new one? ie do I mess up its strength/temper?
3) the rad and its hoses are less than a year old. But might try to replace low pressure PS hoses and the other ones down at the bottom right side - whatever those are?
I'm not in pain yet...I kinda enjoy problems like this, mainly from the learning you get out of it. Pain will come if I have to take her somewhere...and by her, I mean the LC...just made a spa date for my wife, that was a foregone conclusion.
thanks for the notes on the compressor, at work now...looking at the compressor we have here.
its this one: seems like it should be able to do the job.
Makita MAC2400 Big Bore 2.5 HP Air Compressor
by Makita
Link: Makita MAC2400 Big Bore 2.5 HP Air Compressor - Stacked Tank Air Compressors - Amazon.com
I have a 15' line with 3/8" fittings waiting for the nitrocat gun to show from amazon tonight.
Questions:
1) is there a link on mud to pulling the Rad? I know it is straight forward enough in the FSM...but I'm a visual learner.
2) if I heat the bolt, do I need to replace with a new one? ie do I mess up its strength/temper?
3) the rad and its hoses are less than a year old. But might try to replace low pressure PS hoses and the other ones down at the bottom right side - whatever those are?
- Thread starter
- #38
Dang! Only issue is the delivery aspect...might look locally for one. Tahoe trip right after xmas.
Have you tried a come-a-long yet? That may be scary, in and of itself, though... 