Bannana needs help. 30mm crank bolt siezed?

[bloc]

Try a larger air line, and maybe removing the air regulator. Your existing line being short helps but still may be restricting airflow, which makes everything after the very first "impact" much less forceful.

 

[HardyDanger]

Ok,
Now its desperation time. Nothing's off the table.
I have a FJ60 w a 2F & manual transmission (with heavy flywheel).

Although the 2F engine is very different than yours, I think the method I used to loosen my crank pulley nut is worth a try since you haven't tried it yet, and it worked for me.

I don't know if you can set up the wrench like I did on your 80, but if you can, this method was a success for me. Link below-

Whoa! I'm having crank seal woes...

Whoa!
that's epic. I let mine swing progressively from about an inch to about whatever the fracking distance it was from where the breaker touched the ground to the frame rail. That said, I like your use of lumber to hold steel to steel!!!

 

[HardyDanger]

Did you also try to tighten it with the impact wrench? Sometimes if you tighten then loosen magical things happen. Also hitting the bolt face with a hammer can sometimes work.

Next things to try:

- CRC freeze off then hit it with the impact
- Propane torch until hot then hit with impact (who knows, maybe someone did this before and used loctite)

It'll be noisy but you will have to full throttle that impact wrench for a while.

These situations remind me of the safe break on Bad Santa. Throw everything you have at it with apparently no progress and just one final tap and it pops open. Good luck man!

yep. fwd. backward. I think i tried sideways. I did try heat for what it was worth.
i didn't try the BFH approach...

 

[HardyDanger]

My wife just said, "what are you doing now? talking to your peeps? My gawd you are such a dork, you are so dorky." (but she said it with a smile on her face.)

so yes. Status. it's all put back together.

Crank bolt 18 - Mud 0

Had to call the code. That thing doesn't want to come off, so I figure it can stay on for now. we have to be on the road tomorrow.

I think I might make the SST to lock off the balancer...but no time tonight or for the next couple weeks.

That said. THANKS TO ALL THAT HELPED ALONG THE WAY!!!!!!!!!!!!!! AMAZING TO BE PART OF THIS COMMUNITY. it was half the reason I wanted to buy an LC.


Got it all buttoned up. Timing was spot on.

Got the rad back in. Got the belts on squeal free.

One last win.
Never would have found this, save for pulling the rad. The brass bolt that affixes the nipple for one of the t cooler lines was a Time Bomb. Was held on by maybe two threads that were pinky tight.

Made it to o'rielly's with five to spare to get coolant and atf

all that said, merry, merry

one thing thought i'd share:
Made a skid plate for that pesky nipple at the top of the rad (pic after I pulled the cardboard protecting the fins that's what the tape is all about)...
its a simpson strong tie from home dopey. you can seee part # in pic.

and this was my rig for tightening alt belt.
longgggggg ext. + uni joint + 12mm deep socket. (I think it was 12) + milwak 18v impact driver. zip zip zapped!!
(you can also see my ghetto Ac delco CC rigged in the background

 

[HardyDanger]

Try a larger air line, and maybe removing the air regulator. Your existing line being short helps but still may be restricting airflow, which makes everything after the very first "impact" much less forceful.

So, not pictured was my last ditch effort. I realized that the quick connect was 1/4, so I pulled that an went 3/8 right to the tank. I cranked the regulator to max...and....well....

Since I currently have the mental capacity of a soap dish, I had not the inclination to retry with 1/2" all around, not to mention Mcmaster carr doesn't deliver at 10pm.

 

[bajaphile]

Well that sucks! haha.
Same thing happened to me a couple years ago. I worked on it for a few days and gave up. About a year later when the oil leak got real bad, I went for it again and got it right away with a giant breaker bar (4-5ft? not sure, it barely fit under the hood).

FYI the alternator adjustment bolt head is accessible between the wheel well and frame rail with a 18" 3/8 drive extension.

 

[flintknapper]

Wow.....your crank bolt is really a bugger!

Never heard of one that couldn't be removed with a good torque multiplier (which you have) and cheater bar.

I am REALLY surprised the impact wouldn't break it loose. One thing for certain....you gave it one heck of a try.