ATrac question

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Oh, and "4X4 101" says that a 4WD vehicle is really only a 2WD vehicle unless it has locking differentials. Wait...maybe that's advanced "4X4 102".

Actually - I believe that's exactly the point I was making. Drive force goes to the path of least resistance (spinning wheels). Therefore, if CDL is open and 3 wheels are spinning, the only way for the vehicle to move forward is to brake all 3 spinning wheels. Do you agree?
 
You're dodging the question - if CDL is open with 3 wheels slipping and only one wheel getting traction, do you agree that the only way for the vehicle to move forward is ATRAC braking on the other 3 at the same time?

I'm just trying to be logical here.

Yes...I'm dodging...I've explain it until I'm dead and can't write any longer. Sorry about this. Other's with experience will have to help.
 
Surely this isn't such a tough question - can anyone else explain how it's possible to get one wheel moving when CDL is open, one wheel with traction and 3 wheels slipping ..... unless ATRAC is braking the 3 slipping wheels simultaneously?!!!!
 
Atrac plus F/R lockers equals unstoppable, but if I had to pick between the two options I would choose lockers. The 40s and 80s can't even spell Atrac

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Agree that lockers are the better option. But this video demonstrates that lockers used improperly are subject to getting stuck like everyone else. Lockers != invinceable. Also the ATrac system is pretty capable. So we can talk of the differences of ATrac to lockers to CDL this and that but sometimes it comes down to just knowing your truck and having the skills.
 
Atrac plus F/R lockers equals unstoppable, but if I had to pick between the two options I would choose lockers. The 40s and 80s can't even spell Atrac

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Fair enough and I completely agree. The best part about ATRAC is that it's always there but never binding. You don't have to make a choice, it just works - the majority of the time.

Settled? Now I'd like to hear more from Spresso about his preference for a front locker on a lifted hundy.
 
...but I got great mileage during the break in of my 4.88; now I like to feel the returned surge when I accelerate. LOL
 
On a lifted 100 the front end likes to unload rather quickly. Just the nature, a locker will prevent the wheel that looses traction to speed up and create that bang and jolt. When I go up a hill with little rocks and small bumps, I do the old left foot braking method. It puts a little pressure on the front wheels, not enough to stop you, but just enough to keep the front wheels from jolting and shocking the front end due to contact loss, being a open diff and the small lag between traction loss and atrac intervention, it gives a much nicer transition between traction/loss of traction/traction. No more banging and jolting
 
On a lifted 100 the front end likes to unload rather quickly. Just the nature, a locker will prevent the wheel that looses traction to speed up and create that bang and jolt. When I go up a hill with little rocks and small bumps, I do the old left foot braking method. It puts a little pressure on the front wheels, not enough to stop you, but just enough to keep the front wheels from jolting and shocking the front end due to contact loss, being a open diff and the small lag between traction loss and atrac intervention, it gives a much nicer transition between traction/loss of traction/traction. No more banging and jolting

I do this too sometimes... the only problem is that this deactivates ATRAC as far as I know (i.e., ATRAC won't do it's thing if you are applying brakes)
 
Left foot braking really helps controlling the 100. A lot of the rocky, boulder type wheeling in AZ is really made easier with left foot help to control RPM and the loading and unloading of the front suspension when on the ledges, bigger rocks.
 
Left foot braking really helps controlling the 100. A lot of the rocky, boulder type wheeling in AZ is really made easier with left foot help to control RPM and the loading and unloading of the front suspension when on the ledges, bigger rocks.

I'm not particularly good at it, but that's how I was taught to do technical stuff: constant power, variable (left-foot) braking to control speed. If done well, it more smooth with less chance of driveline shock.

I'm interested in the comment about brake = no ATRAC. True?
 
OregonLC said:
I'm interested in the comment about brake = no ATRAC. True?

Holding the brake and throttle will kill atrac. If you find yourself going uphill and do not want to roll back pull the e-brake and give it gas. When the system starts working drop the brake and you on zee way.
 
2000UZJ said:
Holding the brake and throttle will kill atrac. If you find yourself going uphill and do not want to roll back pull the e-brake and give it gas. When the system starts working drop the brake and you on zee way.

...I need to get my e-brake fixed then.

- Sent from a better phone than an iPhone
 
I'm not particularly good at it, but that's how I was taught to do technical stuff: constant power, variable (left-foot) braking to control speed. If done well, it more smooth with less chance of driveline shock.

I'm interested in the comment about brake = no ATRAC. True?

What you describe is called Power braking and is an important skill to use when on a difficult trail. I can't imagine doing the rubicon without it. That trail really taught me the in's and out's of power braking. Otherwise, your trying to power over stuff and creating potential breakage or moving un predicatbly due to the obstacle. Power Braking allows you control as you go over an obstacle.

I have been going back and forth on lockers and wanted to see how the ATRAC works. If it shuts off (makes sense) while your power braking, then that in itself defines a need (for me at least) to put ARB lockers in the front and rear. Christo already has me convinced on the front.
 
It also can lock up the torque converter causing less slip and less heat. Gives a more direct "launch" vs a roll back and then movement.

But yes, I hVe ran several trails where you need both feet on both pedals to really control the speed and direction
 
i run ATrac with steady throttle input and let the system do its magic while I give steering wheel input.....

I used brake trick on slow speeds where I could roll back or in vehicles without traction control to help the LSD apply pressure more evenly between tires....been doing it since a kid 30 years ago. If my ATrac is working hard then I dont touch brakes...just concentrate on my line, keeping steady throttle, and trying not to let suspension hop or cause wheel bounce.
 
Just found this video on youtube randomly. I am assuming the ATRAC in the tundra is quite similar in its operation to whats on the 100 series and FJC. Shows that if you have only one wheel with traction, ATRAC WILL send power to that one wheel and pull the vehicle forward.

‪How A-trac works‬‏ - YouTube
 
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