ASCO Locking Hubs - trouble reassembling

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77TLCFJ40 said:
I recently rebuilt a set of 62 hubs for my 40 with RCVs and ran into a similar issue. My dial was not fully seated in the hub cover. Grease it and apply constant pressure until you feel that last small movement. Try not to put too much focused pressure on the hub cover.
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Tried again today with Rainman to get these back together. We confirmed that with the new seal, the c clip will not seat. With the OLD seals, which are slightly smaller, it WILL seat, but it WON'T turn without a great deal of force, and it WON'T go from Free to Locked - PERIOD. It binds up about 1/2 inch from the Locked position.

Rainman looked at me and said - "Heck, buy some new Warns and be done with it."

I just read on Pirate4x4 - "What it is is the ASCO dial, and the AISIN dial are .005/.010 different in diameter. So you cant take the blue dial, and put it in the black ring. However, I have run across red dialed ASCO hubs, and those did not interchange either. Really this only matters if you have a large pile, and rip 'em all down together. So just keep your hubs seperate when rebuilding/replacing o-rings, and youll be fine!"

I'm wondering if the old, loose, seals and the new, thick, seals are both wrong, and therefore not allowing me to reassemble. Geez, how hard can this get? I'm going to try to buff down the new seals a bit (the protruding lip) and see if I can get it to seat after that.
 
VV,

I'm stumped. My hubs are definitely harder to turn with the new seals, but they turn.
 
77TLCFJ40 said:
VV,

I'm stumped. My hubs are definitely harder to turn with the new seals, but they turn.
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I hate to say it, but I'm about done with this.

I took some 600 grit paper and sanded down the mating surface on the handle. It's slick as owl crap now, but it made no difference.

TCSTARK gave me some Warn hubs a while back. I'm going to check those and see if they are the right ones. Hate to put those on this truck since I have the ASCOs and they are all prettied up....
 
What surface, specifically, are you lapping, polishing, etc? Reason I mention this, if the o ring is too thick, as you suspect, you really ought to remove material from inside the groove that the ring sits in on the dial, allowing the ring to seat further in and hopefully compress a bit in the channel.

Get new lockouts and be done with it. By now I bet you could start a fund raiser, we'd all chip in, and you'd have a new set by Friday.
 
If you lived near me VV, I'm sure we could fix these dials on my lathe.

The parts are round are they not ... and alloy is real easy to skim...

:beer:
 
I made the suggestion to buy new because of the A) new parts, B)newer tech, and C) new parts. Of course then I realized I was talking to Victus and remembered he's not one for going the easy way out or one to lay down several weeks of effort to defeat. I respect that but, pride be damned, after all it's such a small part of the big picture...
 
mdsims said:
What surface, specifically, are you lapping, polishing, etc? Reason I mention this, if the o ring is too thick, as you suspect, you really ought to remove material from inside the groove that the ring sits in on the dial, allowing the ring to seat further in and hopefully compress a bit in the channel.

Get new lockouts and be done with it. By now I bet you could start a fund raiser, we'd all chip in, and you'd have a new set by Friday.
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Yea, lots of folks have spent time helping me on this. I don't mean to waste anyone's time. It was just strange.


lostmarbles said:
If you lived near me VV, I'm sure we could fix these dials on my lathe.

The parts are round are they not ... and alloy is real easy to skim...
:beer:
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What's a 13 hour flight between friends?


Rainman said:
I made the suggestion to buy new because ...
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It's a good suggestion. We need to move on from this.

But I DID just get my 20 Ton Press today! Maybe I'll try that.

image.webp
 
Vae Victus said:
It's a good suggestion. We need to move on from this.

But I DID just get my 20 Ton Press today! Maybe I'll try that.

View attachment 1000633
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If it takes 20 tons to put it together, how many men does it take to lock the hubs at the start of the trail?

Not a trick question!

20 Ton Press! Maybe I'll try that.

2 bucks says he breaks the casting.
 
When I rebuilt my front axel and hubs some 10K+ miles ago (20 months ago), I took the old seal (o-ring) to Ace hardware and field fitted a replacement ($o.6o ea.) Everything went back together and works fine with no signs of sweating/leaks. The hubs dials turn with some resistance to my liking.

In defense to my ignorance, I thought the old O-ring was deformed from being 30+ years old.
I used a light coat of grease prior to reassembly.
IMG_0097.webp
 
firestopper said:
When I rebuilt my front axel and hubs some 10K+ miles ago (20 months ago), I took the old seal (o-ring) to Ace hardware and field fitted a replacement ($o.6o ea.) Everything went back together and works fine with no signs of sweating/leaks. The hubs dials turn with some resistance to my liking.

In defense to my ignorance, I thought the old O-ring was deformed from being 30+ years old.
I used a light coat of grease prior to reassembly.
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Two things -
1. Great looking hubs!

2. Duh. Simple solution for a simple problem. Thanks for that great idea. Will try that as soon as I can get to a HW store.

(Rainman - I'll take your $2 anyway :flipoff2:)
 
Weber Sarge said:
If you want , ship 'em up here - I have a lathe / 30t press and a tig - they will go together . Not to mention 40yrs of wrenching experience .
Sarge
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I'll save that offer for something that is really important that I cannot easily replace. I bet @vtgbeemer will lathe the hubs if needed.... He's a little more reasonable - only 45 minutes.
 
Vae Victus said:
Yes, have tried w/out the spring and ball. Makes little difference, though one ball needs to be replaced as it is a bit worn out.
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If you only replace one... I'll shoot you in the foot! Or better yet, I'll sick your dog on you!
 
I suggested you bring them up in a previous post and of course the offer still stands.
 
It's unfortunately our trucks are 6 months apart, but that spans the transition from coarse to fine-spline axles. Otherwise, you could have my coarse spline WARNS. They're just sitting in a rubbermaid bin with all my other coarse spline parts that I can't even give away haha.
 
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