ASCO Locking Hubs - trouble reassembling

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It's unfortunate that our trucks are 6 months apart, but that spans the transition from coarse to fine-spline axles. Otherwise, you could have my coarse spline WARNS. They're just sitting in a rubbermaid bin with all my other coarse spline parts that I can't even give away haha.

Actually only 4 months - Oct '75. So close.
 
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Really? I thought yours was a mid 76? Also - I hate auto-correct. Ruining grammar one forum post at a time...
 
When I rebuilt my front axel and hubs some 10K+ miles ago (20 months ago), I took the old seal (o-ring) to Ace hardware and field fitted a replacement ($o.6o ea.) Everything went back together and works fine with no signs of sweating/leaks. The hubs dials turn with some resistance to my liking.

In defense to my ignorance, I thought the old O-ring was deformed from being 30+ years old.
I used a light coat of grease prior to reassembly.

Ding Ding Ding! We have a winner.

A 1/16 inch walled, 1 7/8" OD o-ring from Ace Hardware got the job done. Both control handles fit into the covers and the C clips fell in the place without even having to press on them. Here's a photo of the proper O-ring.

Thanks all who helped (or gave me grief) along the way :->

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ImageUploadedByIH8MUD Forum1417807306.613113.webp
 
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Never give up is a good motto ...................:clap:
 
Don't you love how it is always the stupid, trivial $%|t that takes the longest?
 
Pretty hubs indeed. Why'd you paint the bolts? Those are still available from Toyota.

Are you sure?
Have a good p/n for that specific piece of hardware? (lockout dial bolt, with flat washer)
I was told two years ago that they were disco...

:meh:
 
Hate to be a downer, but does that do anything at all? From the pic it looks like the outer edge of the o-ring won't even touch the inner edge of the sealing surface.

Are you sure?
Have a good p/n for that specific piece of hardware? (lockout dial bolt, with flat washer)
I was told two years ago that they were disco...

I believe you are right. The real correct ones have a '7' strength mark on them. They are superseded by the ones I got which do not: part number, 91641-80616

2572719295_3e6416894a_b.jpg


Installed, and looking at this pic they don't look to have the washer. I'm going to have to go pull one off and have a look.

hubafter72-jpg.586232
 
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Hate to be a downer, but does that do anything at all? From the pic it looks like the outer edge of the o-ring won't even touch the inner edge of the sealing surface.

Ok Eddie Downer! Just kidding.

I tried a 3/32" o-ring, and it would not seat. Nor would it seat with the old seal (too loose, binding up), or the new seal (too thick, would not seat).

I do feel that this might be on the thin side (if it were 1/64 thicker it might be closer to perfection), however it does provide some interface between the two parts so that it is not the same as when the o-ring is completely omitted. I can feel resistance from the rubber being slightly sandwiched between the parts.

Another issue - this may not be good rubber.

I need to ask Beno if there is a spec for the real seal. Pretty sure the new ones I got from Cruiser Outfitters are not OEM and are not right.
 
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Vae,

A thought: not sure what "surfacing"(sanding, scraping, filing, lapping, polishing, etc.) you may have already done to your hubs before trying out these o-rings, but they might have a better fit on hubs that haven't been "surfaced" yet.

Will be interested to hear of any possible leakage once they are in use. Also, since I am not a plumber, I thought plumbing o-rings use EPDM as the "rubber" compound, and don't know if that is compatible with automotive oils and greases, or will break-down over time.
 
As I mentioned in prior post, I replaced my old O-ring/seals with Ace hardware replacements for the hubs a while back. I use the 40 as a daily driver with well over two hot summers (Tucson, Az) and one winter. No seepage/sweating or leaks of any kind.
I "field" fitted the replacement seals as they had a few close fits. I used calipers for the diameter size as close as I could given the old seal appeared to be somewhat distorted. I also measured the over all size (installed on the dial) to determine how much "interference" fit I wanted. Sorry I don't recall the numbers but the following is the size.

Ace part number #90 L02-1462 ($0.69 ea.)
I hope this helps. Again the hubs rotate with some resistance (as they should).
Hopefully the #90 is a standard size (for Ace Hardware).

I realize this is a pluming part, but they seem to be holding up to the light greased used in the hubs. I was originally looking for a Viton type o-ring but had no luck.
 
The O-rings are all pretty standard size. I was looking on the website last night to get familiar with all the different common SAE and metric sizes.

I can reference your number 90 to my number 65 O ring from Ace and see what the differences are. I can then see if yours is slightly larger, and if it will fit better and give me more interference between the two surfaces, though this one works pretty well.
 
I looked up the #90 O-ring. What I found at a generic site was 1/2"OD x 1/"ID x 1/8" wall. This isn't the Ace Hardware one, so it is most likely different.

There is no way this one fits. Curious to get the dimensions of the Ace Hardware #90.
 
Ok Eddie Downer! Just kidding.

I tried a 3/32" o-ring, and it would not seat. Nor would it seat with the old seal (too loose, binding up), or the new seal (too thick, would not seat).

I do feel that this might be on the thin side (if it were 1/64 thicker it might be closer to perfection), however it does provide some interface between the two parts so that it is not the same as when the o-ring is completely omitted. I can feel resistance from the rubber being slightly sandwiched between the parts.

Another issue - this may not be good rubber.

I need to ask Beno if there is a spec for the real seal. Pretty sure the new ones I got from Cruiser Outfitters are not OEM and are not right.

Remember, these O-rings are holding grease in (and a light coating of grease at that). The grease is thick, and probably doesn't need an INCREDIBLY tight seal in this case. I'd be more concerned with the seal keeping water OUT of your hub internals. It's possible you could test that? put the hub dial back together on the hub body and (maybe use some permatex in place of the paper seal so you don't waste it?). Then just put it face down in water and see if it leaks in around the seal and C-clip...

Or, fill up the hub body with water (using it like a glass for the water) and then twist the dial and see if anything comes through...

Might be dumb, but it would certainly see determine the sealing power of your O-ring (and everything else, haha)

Just a thought!
 
Maybe another reason to NOT pressure wash the hubs after wheeling?
 
I ordered an OEM set of gaskets from Beno. We will see how different they are from the CruiserOutfitter version. Also ordered that dang cone washer I lost while sandblasting. (What is it with me and losing cone washers - lost one from the knuckle too).
 
...I need to ask Beno if there is a spec for the real seal. Pretty sure the new ones I got from Cruiser Outfitters are not OEM and are not right.

AISIN/ASCO Hub O-Rings? If you sourced them from us they are OEM Toyota, we have never stocked anything but OEM Toyota hub o-rings which are an o-ring but not a round cross-section but rather a unique shape. Same as a new AISIN hub comes standard with.
 
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