I'd love to take credit - but my brother was driving
that's why it happened
- I let my brother drive only on dirt roads 
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that's why it happened
- I let my brother drive only on dirt roads 
Well to be fair - it was his cruiser for 35 years before he gave it to me so I always let him drive when we meet upthat's why it happened
Well to be fair - it was his cruiser for 35 years before he gave it to me so I always let him drive when we meet up
Give me the bolt pattern and I'll measure my spare front driveshaft. That is unless you located one.
Looking for a used RTT, not terribly picky, but looking for something quality (CVT or ARB) hoping to spend around $700. Anyone selling?
When you say extra hard top do you mean the whole top or just the cap? Also the 73-78 center console if you still have it.
I have Both a a perfect cap( Top )and A full 78 hardtop in great condition
64mm X 56mm with 10mm bolts
Not sure if the nuts used on the brake drum were too large as far as wrench used or wrong SAE wrench was used. Ended up pulling it off the shelve to remove the nuts. Was when I did I noticed dents in the main tube.
Interesting the driveshaft I believe were from my 73 have the same pattern but used smaller bolts. Which brings up the question does my 73 have smaller holes in the flange or are 73 driveshafts somewhere else. Anyway have a driveshaft while not as bad as yours it does have some dents.
Two left...
Kurt at Cruiser Outfitters has a good tech page on drive flanges that might help you id your mystery shafts here:Not sure if the nuts used on the brake drum were too large as far as wrench used or wrong SAE wrench was used. Ended up pulling it off the shelve to remove the nuts. Was when I did I noticed dents in the main tube.
Interesting the driveshaft I believe were from my 73 have the same pattern but used smaller bolts. Which brings up the question does my 73 have smaller holes in the flange or are 73 driveshafts somewhere else. Anyway have a driveshaft while not as bad as yours it does have some dents.
Cruiser Outfitters
I appreciate you looking through your parts for me but I'll pass on the rusty shaft. My best option might be to re-tube or sleeve my shaft and take it down to Tucson to get it balanced.
I would pass because of the dents. Rust isn't as bad as the photos show. Without the dents wouldn't have a problem sanding painting and running it. While the rust showed worse how bad the the dents are doesn't.
The other set I have match my 68 but had the original driveshafts retubed when I switched to the four speed. Have a number of earlier driveshafts that are skinny compared to these. Guessing early sixties. Forgot I have a set of 84 HJ47RV driveshaft for my 65 FJ45LP-B when I update the drivetrain.
Managed to shoehorn in a H42 and early one piece transfer into my 68. Going to a H55F would require a bunch more mods. Would do my homework about the conversion. My 79 will be a lot easier to install a five speed. A H41 with 3.70s and rubber overdrive might be a better choice. With as many highway miles you do can see the need to do something to drop the RPM.
@Chris in AZupdate:
shortly after taking my money, I got the insurance cards, and they asked for a list of pictures . . . exterior, interior, back, sides, front, engine compartment . . . agent said this was routine for "stated-value"
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by pure chance, I discovered today that Safeco cancelled the policy without even seeing a need to inform me- as a matter of fact, the sent out the snailmail just today, with the cancel date for Friday, leaving me less than 48 hours after the letter would have arrived
(nevermind, I have a USPS hold until a week thereafter, so the deadline would have passed before we even got back into town
guess what, the reason they cancelled was (heard it from two different customer service agents): "these vehicles are not antique or classic enough to qualify under our policy"- "because they seem to be driven offroad" - NO s***
(like I hadn't truthfully mentioned all of this when they sold me the policy
retubing and balancing a driveshaft for my 40 cost $85 at Arizona Driveshaft in Mesa - shouldn't be more in Tucson . . .
Thanks Claudia - I'll look in to it.
My last dealing with a driveshaft shop in Tucson still gets me riled up. Cost was more than quoted and he had no way of balancing it - or even checking the balance. Claimed that the way he made them they didn't need balancing . . .
I have heard good things about Simmons and their driveline shop...
Simmons 4x4 Automotive Repair Center - expert auto repair - Tucson, AZ 85713
WTB: Rear coil spacers. 30mm approximately. Thanks!
Hi CSC, does anyone have a front 100 series AHC shock(s) and/or oem UCAs? I'm stranded in phoenix getting an LX road ready and trying to get by until I can get home and think more clearly about a full suspension.
BTW shout out to Murf and Robert at Camelback Toyota. They've been a Thanksgiving miracle helping me get on the road quickly.
Edit: We can call off the search. I made it home safely. Thanks!
BTW shout out to Murf and Robert at Camelback Toyota. They've been a Thanksgiving miracle helping me get on the road quickly.
Edit: We can call off the search. I made it home safely. Thanks!
Last edited:
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Set of 4 35” Nitto Terra Grapplers 315/75R16 with under 22k miles, about 60% tread left $500
1 tire: Cooper ST Max 255/80R17 tire, zero miles $90. I think has 45k+ mileage warranty left.
Located in Scottsdale. Has Discount Tire Certs, if transferable.
1 tire: Cooper ST Max 255/80R17 tire, zero miles $90. I think has 45k+ mileage warranty left.
Located in Scottsdale. Has Discount Tire Certs, if transferable.
