ARB locker

[secretagent]

I have about 800 bucks to blow and was thinking of getting an ARB locker, Should I go with a front or rear locker first, the other will come when I can scrounge another few hundred . Thanks

 

[cruiseroutfit]

I have about 800 bucks to blow and was thinking of getting an ARB locker, Should I go with a front or rear locker first, the other will come when I can scrounge another few hundred . Thanks

I would do the rear, here is why...

1. Installing in the front will require your to tear apart the knuckles, so in worst case, you are also going to have to pay for the knuckle kit ~$80 and the labor for the front if you can't handle it yourself.

2. The rear is a much easier install, a diff cover (10 bolts) and drop out the 3rd (15 bolts) and your ready to install the locker.

3. Without ram-assist, HD birfs, etc... The locker would be better in the rear IMHO.

Remember, that you will need a minimum of carrier bearings when adding the ARB to the rear, this is assuming your re-using the gears and your pinion bearings and seal are OK. The carrier bearings are ~$40 for both sides.

Hope that helps

 

[sandcruiser]

I vote for the rear.
It offers you the option of flipping the ARB on even if you are in 2wd. I use mine frequently that way when I only need the extra traction for a minute or two.
Very handy.

 

[Landpimp]

$800 plus install............don't forget that.

I vote for the rear, I have 3 cruisers with rear ARB only.

 

[dd113]

Buy a Power track for the rear. Spend the extra cash on diff gasket, pinion oil seal, stake nut, outer axle oil seals and some rear brake work. You can rebuild the rear axle almost 100% then save up more and put an ARB in the front later.

it will be tight to do a rear ARB/compressor for $800

 

[Ian Rogers]

i would go with co2 over an arb compressor, it by far cheaper. CO2 is also great for filling tires and running air tools.

 

[teapot]

rear

 

[peesalot]

could you go back to the jiggly avitar.

 

[Markh]

Keep saving and do both axles. But do the rear if you want one right now. I've had my ARB's for a little over 8 years and can't live without them. The ARB's and power steering were about the best mods I've done to my cruiser.

 

[Ian Rogers]

i would say buy one of the lockers NOW as the U.S. $ is slipping fast to the A.U. $ and if you wait to long its going to be 800 for just the locker

 

[helocat]

If the plan is to do ARB front and rear, I would do rear first. Not for cost saving or anything but for just plain performance now. But if $ is going to be tight and a lunch box locker is going into one end, put the ARB in the front. Being able to quickly lock and unlock the front end is worth it. Also if this you are installing it yourself (its not as hard as most think it is) then the front is where you want your first install. (Less use and at lower RPMs)

I run ARB front and rear in my set up and constantly work the front locker. If I have to back up to re-shoot a line I blow the front locker to help save the birfs. Then lock it back up as I go back up. Also any time you have a bunch of tight maneuvering it is far far easier to blow the front locker and keep the stress off your steering components.

In my case since my rig has slowly become a trailer truck, I no longer see the need for a selectable rear locker. In fact a Detroit would be just fine now. Yes it is fun to shoot lines completely open just to see if I can. It also is nice in snow to keep it open but 95% of the time its locked up.

So Rear if you are putting two in, Front if you are putting just one in.


Mark

 

[Razor]

I vote rear,
I have front and rear arb lockers....I never use the front, untill just recenly in the snow...

2 cent

 

[Tigerstripe40]

I vote rear,
I have front and rear arb lockers....I never use the front, untill just recenly in the snow...

2 cent

I am gonna go against the grain and say do the front with an ARB, but lock up the rear first with a lock right.

That said I would spend an extra $200 and do both the front and rear end. Do the front with an ARB and the rear with a lock right.

I have been REALLY happy with my lock right. I haven't had any problems with it. No driving issues (I can make ti behave badly, but only if I drive it like an idiot).
Besides, on a trail, you usually leave the rear end locked up anyhow/

Personally, I am saving up for an ARB for the front. But I am debating on whether or not to do 4.88's at the same time.

 

[Razor]

Hmmmmm
I don't use my lockers unless it is absolutely neccessary.....I might even back up try again without lockers........OR...get out and use that $2K investment ARB/warn M10K..before the lockers.....

Its just all good and all fun.........Unless you have neither....

 

[camcruiser13]

rear, most of your traction comes from the rear

 

[hatfieldcb]

OK. Which one would you pick for the rear, ARB or Detroit Locker? I'm trying to decide for my project 40. I've heard some negative things about Lock Rights lately. But I suppose it would be cheaper and easier to throw one in the rear for now and step up and put an ARB in the front right away. Later on I can fix the rear. I'm running 35" SSRs and will have on-board air from a York.

Who's got the best prices on ARB? Detroit?

ARB or Detroit in the rear??


Chris

 

[kc_chevota]

sam's offroad, truck add on's, and cruiser soluitions all have them under $800 1 or 2 bucks. sams' includes s/h not shure about the others. never priced a detroit

 

[Gundy]

I vote rear...first

Just doing one I'd say do the rear....BUT.....a lunchbox in the rear
wouldn't cost that much more and the rear is an easy install.
You'll likely be reworking the front while you have it apart for the ARB.
I can tell you it makes tight turns doable in 4wd when you can...pssssst...
and be unlocked in the front. I wouldn't have it any other way.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

...Who's got the best prices on ARB? Detroit?...

Not sure if I'm the cheapest... but I am very competative...

 

[SPRDAV]

I vote rear. I had enough moola when I built my rear so in went an ARB, but when it came time to do the front I only had enough for the Lockrite. It works alot better then I thought it would. When engaged, the rear has a tendency to push the front straight, no matter which direction your turning. If disengaged the rear slips and the front locker controls direction. Something I didn't consider when installing lockers. I will eventually install and ARB in the front to save the birfs but for now I'm going to run this set up until the Longfields blow.