Builds Another Texas LS1 Swap

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Running "proper" exhaust with both cats in a 40 can be a challenge. The only way I have been able to do it is to run the passenger side primary pipe under the engine so both primaries are now on the driver side. The cats then need to be staggered with the passenger in the front and driver in the rear. They also need to be rotated up so they have a narrow but tall profile. That way both cats are the same distance downstream from the manifolds and your O2s will work properly. Then Y them together and run them thru a single 2.5" muffler.

Hth

Georg @ valley hybrids
 
Got the dash in. I still have to hook up the fuel and tranny gauges and fix a couple cosmetic things. But here is a pic of it running. Yes, it is throwing a P0308 code and therefore the check engine light is on. Once I figure that out, I'll be happier.
IMG_0151.webp
 
Description of vehicle obd trouble code P0308 - Cylinder 8 Eight Misfire Detected.

Plug, wire usually, seldom do the coils fail but you can swap the coils to see if the code follows , do this after replacing the plug......
 
damn thats a fancy gauge cluster !!!!!:clap:

Them hubs look good !!!
loose that cover.. they'll look even more better:hillbilly:
 
Any thought of painting the silver black ???? Looks great keep up the good work
 
Description of vehicle obd trouble code P0308 - Cylinder 8 Eight Misfire Detected.

Plug, wire usually, seldom do the coils fail but you can swap the coils to see if the code follows , do this after replacing the plug......

I swapped the wire and coil pack with #6 and replaced the plug and it still throws. I also poured in some injector cleaner. Do you think it's the injector? I've read that since #8 injector is at the end of the rail, it sometimes misbehaves.

Any thought of painting the silver black ???? Looks great keep up the good work

Yes, I'm on the fence about painting it black. I'll first photochop the pic to see if I like it.
 
post up a wide shot of the dash, but Iam thinking it would look better in a flat black to match the plastic surround.
 
Yep, black should look better. Have you thought of overlaying the gauge panel on top of the black plastic instead? Might make it look cleaner.
 
Yep, black should look better. Have you thought of overlaying the gauge panel on top of the black plastic instead? Might make it look cleaner.

Great idea or just make it out of plastic. Know of a source?
 
I swapped the wire and coil pack with #6 and replaced the plug and it still throws. I also poured in some injector cleaner. Do you think it's the injector? I've read that since #8 injector is at the end of the rail, it sometimes misbehaves.
it.

Probably SOP for us is to use injector cleaner directly to the fuel rail, pressurized, disabling the fuel pump so it runs straight on it, hard to do with out the equipment though......
 
Here is the extent of my mad photochop skillz.
dash.webp
 
Not my truck but I like that better
 
I'm sorry, but I did not read the complete thread on the misfire, but check the pink wire to that inj for 12 Volts and blue and white for a ground pulse wile running or starting mode. Also ck to filter in the top of the injector for trash. I hope this helps.

thanks
lee
 
Lee, thank for the tip. I'll dig in to it. When I pulled the plug it was wet. So something is wonky with the injector.

I also just found out that head light beam indicator is required to pass inspection. I found the wire, but it has 12volts when the beam is on low. So I guess I'll be putting in a relay for this.

In other news, I found this TSB when researching the P0308. http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/Bluegorilla/2008-12-05_142924_Coolant_loss_5.3.pdf Looks like a casting problem in some of the heads. I really like the fix, R&R head. :flipoff2:
 
does it run fine or is it really a problem. I can turn that off for you *wink*

also, regarding the guage bezel, I have a really neat water jet guy that could jet out some plastic for you for an overlay. He just needs a drawing, hell even on a paper napkin.

have you checked to make sure that you don't have a short to ground on the injector circuit.

un-plug the injector. turn key on; you should have 12v on one wire and no voltage on the other. Now take a continuity tester that beeps and test between that and ground with the key on. It should not beep. Once a week the guys up front get a call like that. ..

"MY INJECTOR IS STUCK OPEN, CAN YOU WARRANTY THAT?" sure. After you fix the short to ground they say. It's hard to hurt an injector.

Think of it this way. That's a 50+ hp leak you would have, because that's the perfect excuse to go buy some really nice head/cam package!
 
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Wayne and Lee, thank you for the help. I'll look into it.

Wayne, thank you for the offer. I'm going paint it to see how it comes out. If it's crap, I'll shoot ya a PM.
 
Quick update:

Got the fuel gauge hooked up and calibrated. FSM EWD made this real simple, #14 on the C12 connector. My gauge's calibration procedure called for moving the float to empty then to full. This can only be done if the fuel level float assembly is out. When the gauge reads 8% it starts flashing.

I also figured out the bright light indicator. I needed a circuit that was closed only when the headlights were on and the high beams where on. Not sure what Mr. T was smoking when he designed it but when the low beams are on, there is 12v to the dash wire. So I need voltage when the opposite occurs. Therefore I need a relay. Here is a schematic.

After I get all this electrical stuff sorted out, I'm going to start digging into the #8 injector and fuel rail. I also suspect that I'm going to need to load an 06 throttle program because some of the 1/2 to 3/4 throttle runs I've made, it runs like it is at full throttle. Time will tell...
Brightlight Indicator.webp
 
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Jeff,

I looked at the wiring and if you have a wire coming off the dimmer switch on bright you will have a ind for your bright lights only. I agree that Mr T was smoking something? This is the way GM has there's set up and I think it will work for me also on mine.

thanks
lee
 

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