Build Another Texas LS1 Swap

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mmw68 said:
What - you spent money on a harness, Edwin would of made you one, but it would of been all black wires! :lol::lol::lol:
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Nice... But wait mine are all blue is that bad :lol:
 
whoa. Jeff. I've been REALLY busy, but following along.

So, you're not using a step up pump? Are you expecting that inline pump to "pull" fuel from the tank?

Not a good idea IMO. You could probably have just left the stock pump in there and let that "FEED" the inline pump. At low pressure the stock pump should flow plenty to keep up demand with that inline. In all honesty, you may not have a problem, but we'll find out for sure when you get her on the dyno! I can log fuel pressure also. :) right along with all the GM ecu functions including "knock" I believe. Right through the OBD II port, to the dyno, and onto your dyno chart.


Also, sorry I dropped the ball on the PS line. Did you get that wrapped up or do you want me to get that for you?
 
Hi Wayne,

I got the pump about even with the bottom of the tank and it primes with no problems. But yes, we'll find out. :) After I got it all hooked up, I thought about that I should of just ran the stock pump off my GM harness and see how it runs.

No, I'm just starting to get to where I need the PS hose. If you can whip one up for me that would be great. I need a 90 degree from the GM pump and a straight fitting into the box. It does not need to be long, maybe 1' 6". Please shoot me a PM on how much and how to pay you. Thank you.
 
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I know it's not done I was just bustin your chops ;).. But I do want to see it at round up so get busy.
 
Finally got back to this. I went and picked up my PS hose from Austin Rebuilders, $51. It was ready 2 hours after I dropped it off. I gave them my LS1 PS hose and the 80 PS hose and they made me one. So when sourcing an engine, get all the hoses! The same place makes AC hoses but I need to call them and see if they have the fittings. If so, I can take my AC hoses from the 80 and they can make me a set. I also went to the part store and bought all the fluids and filters, tranny coolant hoses.

I also had a idea for the front drive shaft. I'm going to take the tcase front flange off, clock it 90 degress and drill the holes so I can use my FJ80 front drive shaft. The u-joints flanges are about 3 1/4 inches which is 1/4 inch smaller than the AA kit.
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warpdriv said:
I also had a idea for the front drive shaft. I'm going to take the tcase front flange off, clock it 90 degress and drill the holes so I can use my FJ80 front drive shaft. The u-joints flanges are about 3 1/4 inches which is 1/4 inch smaller than the AA kit.
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Kristie's 91 has the same bolt pattern as the FJ60 case.....:hhmm::hhmm:
 
Texican said:
Kristie's 91 has the same bolt pattern as the FJ60 case.....:hhmm::hhmm:
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I always wonders how all that stuff worked for y'all I guess it worked well
 
It's starting to look like a cruiser again!!! I put 16' of coolant hose in and filled up the radiator with coolant, finished getting the font end back together and ran the 6' of new transmission hose today. I also talked with PCI and my new harness should be here any day now.
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Wow! You still have lots of space left for dual batteries, etc. Looks really good. :wrench::wrench::wrench:
 
Austin Rebuilders can do the a/c hoses no problem. I assume you are using the Denso 10S20F compressor that came with the 5.3? If so, you might want to know that they are failure prone. #1 nationally. The belt tensioner is a POS too. Austin Rebuilders can install thicker valve plates inside the compressor so you don't have to worry about it down the road. I sell aftermarket compressors if you want new.

My experience has been that compressors designed for an orifice tube system don't have near the suction of one designed for an expansion valve vehicle. Obviously the 10S20F was designed for an orifice tube, while the OEM Toyota Denso 10PA17C was for an expansion valve car.

Tell Rick, Kelly or Jerry what you are doing when you show up with the hoses.
 
Cool! Thank you for the advice. While I have the compressor off, I'll take down there too and have them upgrade the plates.

I pulled the front tcase flange, popped out the studs, and drilled out the holes for the 80 DS. I then bolted it all together and saw how much clearance problems I have with the diameter of the DS. I have 2 choices to solve this, lift kit or smaller diameter DS. I don't want to put a lift on so after I research pipe sizes I'll post back what I found out. Since the DS was mounted, it also have a good idea on how to run the exhaust.
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warpdriv said:
Cool! Thank you for the advice. While I have the compressor off, I'll take down there too and have them upgrade the plates.

I pulled the front tcase flange, popped out the studs, and drilled out the holes for the 80 DS. I then bolted it all together and saw how much clearance problems I have with the diameter of the DS. I have 2 choices to solve this, lift kit or smaller diameter DS. I don't want to put a lift on so after I research pipe sizes I'll post back what I found out. Since the DS was mounted, it also have a good idea on how to run the exhaust.
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What is the clearance issues with???
 
Shaft interference on 4L60 Swaps

Texican said:
What is the clearance issues with???
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Most of the 4L60E transmissions out there have a pan which is wider on the right side and which interferes with the large diameter stock Toyota shaft to the front differential. It's a pain (and something I still believe Advance should mention when they sell you a $1200 adapter for the GM automatic... :p ) and will bite the GM conversions unless you have at least a 2" lift.

We have solved it on an Atlas GM conversion with an Atlas-series 4L60E and are looking at detailing a set of GM-Atlas parts together to solve it.
 
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