Another Radiator Replacement Question for August 2022- **1997 FzJ80**

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TYC1918 from Rockauto.com for $197. This is one of the few parts I would suggest from them. The Arizona guys run them because they are physcially thicker than OEM, Koyo, Denso.
I was leaning towards the Denso (if not going OEM) from that site as I'd read a lot of good reviews. I grew up in AZ but returned to the PNW...if the guys in AZ are running the TYC1918 without any issues, that's good to hear!
 
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I went with the TYC1918 when I did a complete overhaul on my cooling system and its performance is incredible. Even when heavily loaded or towing in hot temperatures up steep grades, my temperature never gets above the the mid-190s. The radiator was cheap and definitely not as heavily built as the OEM radiator. I expect this to be more of a 5 year part than a 15+ year part like the OEM one. If I were frequently driving solo into very remote areas, I would have gone with OEM for the peace of mind, but that being said, there are a lot of people here running TYCs and I have not heard of many complaints of premature failure.
 

Andrew S

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Sheehy Toyota, and many other dealerships, are still offering the "FREESHIP" discount on parts, they list both the part numbers referenced above as in stock and available.


 

baldilocks

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When you say brass and aluminum, do you mean the tubes or the tanks?
I’d think that the tanks are brass and the heat exchanger is made of copper. Stick to AL.
 

OGBeno

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Sheehy Toyota, and many other dealerships, are still offering the "FREESHIP" discount on parts, they list both the part numbers referenced above as in stock and available.



None of these inventories are "live". They only show what they can get from their depot and what is still alive in the Toyota system (even that is suspect most of the time) and what they are willing to sell and ship.

These parts are not in stock at these dealers. Currently 0 dealers have the -66081 or the -66040 in stock. They would all need to be ordered.
 
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That’s not live inventory.

It’s readily available.

They are merely not allowing it to be sold.

None of these inventories are "live". They only show what they can get from their depot and what is still alive in the Toyota system (even that is suspect most of the time) and what they are willing to sell and ship.

These parts are not in stock at these dealers. Currently 0 dealers have the -66081 or the -66040 in stock. They would all need to be ordered.

Thank you for clarifying! I always appreciate your coming to the table on these threads =)
 

Andrew S

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Thanks, Onur. I assumed the parts would ship from a depot, as very few dealers keep much on their own shelves. But, it's disappointing to know the inventories are not up to date.
 

COYS

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These dealerships are in the business of selling and servicing cars. Amazon.com they are not.
 

OGBeno

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Thanks, Onur. I assumed the parts would ship from a depot, as very few dealers keep much on their own shelves. But, it's disappointing to know the inventories are not up to date.

Parts will never ship from a depot. They always go to the selling dealer first. There is no dropship program within Toyota parts procurement at the service part level.
 
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I went with the TYC1918 when I did a complete overhaul on my cooling system and its performance is incredible. Even when heavily loaded or towing in hot temperatures up steep grades, my temperature never gets above the the mid-190s. The radiator was cheap and definitely not as heavily built as the OEM radiator. I expect this to be more of a 5 year part than a 15+ year part like the OEM one. If I were frequently driving solo into very remote areas, I would have gone with OEM for the peace of mind, but that being said, there are a lot of people here running TYCs and I have not heard of many complaints of premature failure.
I'm doing a complete overhaul of the cooling system also...here's the short term plan...

Remove/Replace...

Currently I have sitting in a plastic tub:
OEM Heater control valve
ASIN Waterpump
ASIN Thermostat
ASIN (Blue) Fan Clutch
Hose Set (Full) from Wit's End - Just waiting on fulfillment
New PHH
Flush kit

Also purchased and waiting:
OEM Spark plugs, wires, cap, rotor, Dizzy-o
OEM Hood struts
OEM Oil Filter - using Shell Rotella 15-40


The radiator doesn't APPEAR to be going at all; there's no discoloration like the Heater Control Valve but I'm thinking more PM as she has 220,xxx miles on her...so I'll probably just swap her out. Might buy and set aside the Starter, Alternator, Charcoal Canister, and Fuel Filter over the next couple of months and just change out ALL the peripherals in one very long weekend.

I have a spreadsheet via google docs if anyone is interested ;)
 
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Andrew S

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That's been my experience as well. I have a VC120 currently, but would prefer a Toyota replacement...
 
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Pro-Tip: replace your Radiator Cap with new when you put in a new Radiator or refresh your cooling system. The Radiator Cap is what maintains system pressure, and an old one - though tried and true - is still old. Throw it in your glove box as a backup, but don't forget the small stuff.

Case in point: my Radiator Cap gluing itself to the radiator fill neck is what led to my radiator explosion, under extreme heat and hill conditions. It never vented to the overflow bottle...
 
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Pro-Tip: replace your Radiator Cap with new when you put in a new Radiator or refresh your cooling system. The Radiator Cap is what maintains system pressure, and an old one - though tried and true - is still old. Throw it in your glove box as a backup, but don't forget the small stuff.

Case in point: my Radiator Cap gluing itself to the radiator fill neck is what led to my radiator explosion, under extreme heat and hill conditions. It never vented to the overflow bottle...

Thanks...yeah, replacing the cap was always "one of those things" my autos shop teacher in HS ('91-'95) hammered into us. So did my dad ;)
 
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Pro-Tip: replace your Radiator Cap with new when you put in a new Radiator or refresh your cooling system. The Radiator Cap is what maintains system pressure, and an old one - though tried and true - is still old. Throw it in your glove box as a backup, but don't forget the small stuff.

Case in point: my Radiator Cap gluing itself to the radiator fill neck is what led to my radiator explosion, under extreme heat and hill conditions. It never vented to the overflow bottle...
agree 100% & use the genuine coolant :)
 
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I'm doing a complete overhaul of the cooling system also...here's the short term plan...

Remove/Replace...

Currently I have sitting in a plastic tub:
OEM Heater control valve
ASIN Waterpump
ASIN Thermostat
ASIN (Blue) Fan Clutch
Hose Set (Full) from Wit's End - Just waiting on fulfillment
New PHH
Flush kit

Also purchased and waiting:
OEM Spark plugs, wires, cap, rotor, Dizzy-o
OEM Hood struts
OEM Oil Filter - using Shell Rotella 15-40


The radiator doesn't APPEAR to be going at all; there's no discoloration like the Heater Control Valve but I'm thinking more PM as she has 220,xxx miles on her...so I'll probably just swap her out. Might buy and set aside the Starter, Alternator, Charcoal Canister, and Fuel Filter over the next couple of months and just change out ALL the peripherals in one very long weekend.

I have a spreadsheet via google docs if anyone is interested ;)
Yeah, I did a big tear down like that a couple of years ago at about 240,000 miles. I also did the front main seal, oil pump cover seal, distributor seal, all vacuum hoses, decarboned throttle body, replaced some EGR and VSV components, fuel injectors, new alternator brush, power steering pump (to replace the aftermarket one), and a few other items as well. It was a lot of work, but I figured it was better to do it all while I had things that opened up.
 
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Yeah, I did a big tear down like that a couple of years ago at about 240,000 miles. I also did the front main seal, oil pump cover seal, distributor seal, all vacuum hoses, decarboned throttle body, replaced some EGR and VSV components, fuel injectors, new alternator brush, power steering pump (to replace the aftermarket one), and a few other items as well. It was a lot of work, but I figured it was better to do it all while I had things that opened up.
I looked at the oil pump cover today online...it looks like a PITA to get taken care of. Is there any reason to pop it off if there isn't any visible problem?

I'm planning on also doing a decarbon of the throttle body and another member mentioned that they had their intake pulled for a decarbon also...but I might be making this too hard with something like that.

I'm also planning on having the fuel injectors cleaned and serviced...I ordered a set of OEM injectors from a Mud Member from the same year cruiser they have in their shop so I'll send those out to be serviced and install and then send my factory set out to be serviced, packaged, and put away for future use.

Which will probably be when the odometer rolls 500k miles ;)
 
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I looked at the oil pump cover today online...it looks like a PITA to get taken care of. Is there any reason to pop it off if there isn't any visible problem?

I'm planning on also doing a decarbon of the throttle body and another member mentioned that they had their intake pulled for a decarbon also...but I might be making this too hard with something like that.

I'm also planning on having the fuel injectors cleaned and serviced...I ordered a set of OEM injectors from a Mud Member from the same year cruiser they have in their shop so I'll send those out to be serviced and install and then send my factory set out to be serviced, packaged, and put away for future use.

Which will probably be when the odometer rolls 500k miles ;)
Regarding the oil pump seal, do you know if it has ever been done before? If it is original, I'd be surprised if it wasn't leaking a little bit. If you decide to do it, the screws on the cover are easy to strip, so watch some of the OTRAMM or other videos on how to remove them carefully. This job also requires removal of the harmonic balancer, which is also a pain due to the torque involved and the need for large cheater bars. I think if I had no oil leaking on the front of the engine, I'd be tempted to avoid these items, since they don't seem to fail catastrophically.

For the throttle body de-carboning, you'd also want to remove and clean the upper intake plenum as well. This isn't too hard to remove if you lay under the truck with about 2 feet of socket wrench extension to loosen the nuts from underneath.
 

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