- Thread starter
- #21
I was leaning towards the Denso (if not going OEM) from that site as I'd read a lot of good reviews. I grew up in AZ but returned to the PNW...if the guys in AZ are running the TYC1918 without any issues, that's good to hear!
Another Radiator Replacement Question for August 2022- **1997 FzJ80**
- Thread starter DirtyPepper
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #22
I went with the TYC1918 when I did a complete overhaul on my cooling system and its performance is incredible. Even when heavily loaded or towing in hot temperatures up steep grades, my temperature never gets above the the mid-190s. The radiator was cheap and definitely not as heavily built as the OEM radiator. I expect this to be more of a 5 year part than a 15+ year part like the OEM one. If I were frequently driving solo into very remote areas, I would have gone with OEM for the peace of mind, but that being said, there are a lot of people here running TYCs and I have not heard of many complaints of premature failure.
Andrew S
SILVER Star
Sheehy Toyota, and many other dealerships, are still offering the "FREESHIP" discount on parts, they list both the part numbers referenced above as in stock and available.
1640066040 - Toyota Radiator. Engine, Cooling, System | Sheehy Toyota, Fredericksburg VA
Genuine Toyota Part # 1640066040 (16400-66040) - Radiator. Engine, Cooling, System. Fits Land Cruiser. Ships from Sheehy Toyota, Fredericksburg VA
parts.sheehytoyotafredericksburg.com
1640066081 - Toyota Radiator. Engine, Cooling, Make | Sheehy Toyota, Fredericksburg VA
Genuine Toyota Part # 1640066081 (16400-66081, 1640066080) - Radiator. Engine, Cooling, Make. Fits Land Cruiser, LX 450. Ships from Sheehy Toyota, Fredericksburg VA
parts.sheehytoyotafredericksburg.com
I’d think that the tanks are brass and the heat exchanger is made of copper. Stick to AL.
None of these inventories are "live". They only show what they can get from their depot and what is still alive in the Toyota system (even that is suspect most of the time) and what they are willing to sell and ship.
These parts are not in stock at these dealers. Currently 0 dealers have the -66081 or the -66040 in stock. They would all need to be ordered.
- Thread starter
- #27
Thank you for clarifying! I always appreciate your coming to the table on these threads =)
Andrew S
SILVER Star
Thanks, Onur. I assumed the parts would ship from a depot, as very few dealers keep much on their own shelves. But, it's disappointing to know the inventories are not up to date.
COYS
SILVER Star
These dealerships are in the business of selling and servicing cars. Amazon.com they are not.
Parts will never ship from a depot. They always go to the selling dealer first. There is no dropship program within Toyota parts procurement at the service part level.
- Thread starter
- #31
I'm doing a complete overhaul of the cooling system also...here's the short term plan...
Remove/Replace...
Currently I have sitting in a plastic tub:
OEM Heater control valve
ASIN Waterpump
ASIN Thermostat
ASIN (Blue) Fan Clutch
Hose Set (Full) from Wit's End - Just waiting on fulfillment
New PHH
Flush kit
Also purchased and waiting:
OEM Spark plugs, wires, cap, rotor, Dizzy-o
OEM Hood struts
OEM Oil Filter - using Shell Rotella 15-40
The radiator doesn't APPEAR to be going at all; there's no discoloration like the Heater Control Valve but I'm thinking more PM as she has 220,xxx miles on her...so I'll probably just swap her out. Might buy and set aside the Starter, Alternator, Charcoal Canister, and Fuel Filter over the next couple of months and just change out ALL the peripherals in one very long weekend.
I have a spreadsheet via google docs if anyone is interested
Andrew S
SILVER Star
@DirtyPepper If you find a source for Toyota charcoal canisters to suit a 1997 model, please let me know....
- Thread starter
- #33
From what I understand, there aren't any.
I've updated my spreadsheet of parts off THIS THREAD for the canister.
There's also THIS VIDEO which offers some help.
But neither are Toyota OEM.
I did, however, find THIS TOYOTA OEM Canister on Ebay.
Hope that helps you!
Andrew S
SILVER Star
That's been my experience as well. I have a VC120 currently, but would prefer a Toyota replacement...
Pro-Tip: replace your Radiator Cap with new when you put in a new Radiator or refresh your cooling system. The Radiator Cap is what maintains system pressure, and an old one - though tried and true - is still old. Throw it in your glove box as a backup, but don't forget the small stuff.
Case in point: my Radiator Cap gluing itself to the radiator fill neck is what led to my radiator explosion, under extreme heat and hill conditions. It never vented to the overflow bottle...
Case in point: my Radiator Cap gluing itself to the radiator fill neck is what led to my radiator explosion, under extreme heat and hill conditions. It never vented to the overflow bottle...
- Thread starter
- #36
Thanks...yeah, replacing the cap was always "one of those things" my autos shop teacher in HS ('91-'95) hammered into us. So did my dad
agree 100% & use the genuine coolant
Yeah, I did a big tear down like that a couple of years ago at about 240,000 miles. I also did the front main seal, oil pump cover seal, distributor seal, all vacuum hoses, decarboned throttle body, replaced some EGR and VSV components, fuel injectors, new alternator brush, power steering pump (to replace the aftermarket one), and a few other items as well. It was a lot of work, but I figured it was better to do it all while I had things that opened up.I'm doing a complete overhaul of the cooling system also...here's the short term plan...
Remove/Replace...
Currently I have sitting in a plastic tub:
OEM Heater control valve
ASIN Waterpump
ASIN Thermostat
ASIN (Blue) Fan Clutch
Hose Set (Full) from Wit's End - Just waiting on fulfillment
New PHH
Flush kit
Also purchased and waiting:
OEM Spark plugs, wires, cap, rotor, Dizzy-o
OEM Hood struts
OEM Oil Filter - using Shell Rotella 15-40
The radiator doesn't APPEAR to be going at all; there's no discoloration like the Heater Control Valve but I'm thinking more PM as she has 220,xxx miles on her...so I'll probably just swap her out. Might buy and set aside the Starter, Alternator, Charcoal Canister, and Fuel Filter over the next couple of months and just change out ALL the peripherals in one very long weekend.
I have a spreadsheet via google docs if anyone is interested
- Thread starter
- #39
I looked at the oil pump cover today online...it looks like a PITA to get taken care of. Is there any reason to pop it off if there isn't any visible problem?
I'm planning on also doing a decarbon of the throttle body and another member mentioned that they had their intake pulled for a decarbon also...but I might be making this too hard with something like that.
I'm also planning on having the fuel injectors cleaned and serviced...I ordered a set of OEM injectors from a Mud Member from the same year cruiser they have in their shop so I'll send those out to be serviced and install and then send my factory set out to be serviced, packaged, and put away for future use.
Which will probably be when the odometer rolls 500k miles
Regarding the oil pump seal, do you know if it has ever been done before? If it is original, I'd be surprised if it wasn't leaking a little bit. If you decide to do it, the screws on the cover are easy to strip, so watch some of the OTRAMM or other videos on how to remove them carefully. This job also requires removal of the harmonic balancer, which is also a pain due to the torque involved and the need for large cheater bars. I think if I had no oil leaking on the front of the engine, I'd be tempted to avoid these items, since they don't seem to fail catastrophically.I looked at the oil pump cover today online...it looks like a PITA to get taken care of. Is there any reason to pop it off if there isn't any visible problem?
I'm planning on also doing a decarbon of the throttle body and another member mentioned that they had their intake pulled for a decarbon also...but I might be making this too hard with something like that.
I'm also planning on having the fuel injectors cleaned and serviced...I ordered a set of OEM injectors from a Mud Member from the same year cruiser they have in their shop so I'll send those out to be serviced and install and then send my factory set out to be serviced, packaged, and put away for future use.
Which will probably be when the odometer rolls 500k miles
For the throttle body de-carboning, you'd also want to remove and clean the upper intake plenum as well. This isn't too hard to remove if you lay under the truck with about 2 feet of socket wrench extension to loosen the nuts from underneath.
