Builds An FJ40 Named Dusty

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You can stuff 33x10.5’s on the early narrow factory wheels (I think theyre 5.5” wide) with factory suspension. Ive driven my good friends 40 with this setup and there was no rubbing. On road driving only, im sure this setup would not be goos for any off road driving.



Is it drivable with the 33s or does it rub terribly. Wanting to do the same to mine but need to save up some money before I can lift it and don’t want to buy 2 sets of tires. Looks great. I have an 82 also.

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You can stuff 33x10.5’s on the early narrow factory wheels (I think theyre 5.5” wide) with factory suspension. Ive driven my good friends 40 with this setup and there was no rubbing. On road driving only, im sure this setup would not be goos for any off road driving.





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For what it's worth, those rear shackles are not factory pieces. They are extended shackles.
 
You can stuff 33x10.5’s on the early narrow factory wheels (I think theyre 5.5” wide) with factory suspension. Ive driven my good friends 40 with this setup and there was no rubbing. On road driving only, im sure this setup would not be goos for any off road driving.





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Thanks. I ordered some new 31x10.5 to run for a while and if and when I lift it I’ll get 33s and put the 31s on my 95 pickup.
 
The rust spots on your rear sill, did you treat those with a rust converter or just hit them with Fluid Film?
I coated the spots with several coats of penetrol over weeks of time and soaked the sill inside and out with fluid film.
 
I’m happy with how this first door turned out. It’s not perfect and I don’t profess to be a body and paint man, but it will do just fine. I decided to carry the new paint up to the body line on the outside of the door panel. Above the body line is original paint. On the inside of the door, I made the transition from new paint to old so that it would be hidden by the tag light wiring cover. Once the paint is cured, I’ll install a new door gasket and bolt it back on the truck.
I’m in the process of repairing g my rear doors. I have one cut off at the bottom and got the replacement skins from real steel cruisers fitted up today. What did you do about the insides of the door, for rust preventative?
 
I’m in the process of repairing g my rear doors. I have one cut off at the bottom and got the replacement skins from real steel cruisers fitted up today. What did you do about the insides of the door, for rust preventative?
I coated the inside with weld-through primer prior to welding up the patch pieces. I drilled three holes at the bottom of the door for drainage and for the purpose of shooting in fluid film from time to time to keep the doors rust free going forward.
 
Ambulance door re-installed with new door seal.

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I was blown away by the ease at which the door seal (gasket) was installed using this product:

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The door gasket went in in 15 minutes. All dry and ready to use. No clamps or binder clips needed. Here's how it works...It's essentially rubberized super glue. It's commonly used for gluing RC tires onto rims. I didn't even wipe the seal with alcohol prior to install. Just work a 6 inch section at a time. Spread the glue on the back side of the gasket, spray the catalyst on the door itself, press the gasket onto the door. Holds fast in 2 seconds. Just repeat this a section at a time until the door gasket is fully installed. Cruiser Corps sells the stuff. It can be bought on Amazon or direct from the manufacturer as well (Bob Smith Industries). Never again will I attempt to use the slow drying, messy 3M stuff. This IC-2000 is the best thing since sliced bread!
This stuff is amazing!
 
Wow, great thread and work. Thanks for sharing with us! I‘m local… look forward to seeing it in person sometime!
 
Wow, great thread and work. Thanks for sharing with us! I‘m local… look forward to seeing it in person sometime!
Come see us!
 
Holy cow, I’m 4 yrs late in realizing that u snagged yet another piggy for the fleet! Just read the whole thread, amazing new rig! Happy to see the work on the ambi doors and the lower grill, turned out great! Subbed. Cheers
 
Holy cow, I’m 4 yrs late in realizing that u snagged yet another piggy for the fleet! Just read the whole thread, amazing new rig! Happy to see the work on the ambi doors and the lower grill, turned out great! Subbed. Cheers
Thanks, George. It’s hard for me to believe I’ve had this truck for four years and I still haven’t tagged it or driven it outside of my neighborhood. Too many cruisers. Too little time.
 
did you make or buy thoses fender flares?
Oh! You are asking about THAT truck. That one is called “The Crockpot.” Fender flares are from a heep TJ. 4” lift with leaves removed and 35x12.50 tires.
 
Nathan and I got half of the OME lift installed over the weekend. It went like this...remove old springs and shocks. Axle on jack stands, completely de-crud axle housing and frame, scuff and paint axle housing and rear frame, install new springs and shocks. The de-crudding and paint prep took more time than the spring swap...a lot more time! I also powder coated the spring plates for just a little more bling.
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@roadstr6 - when u cleaned up and painted the underside bits, curious if u used spray cans (brand/type), POR15 type product, or something in a hvlp gun?

As I am disassembling and prepping for installing new TRE’s I’ve decided to remove the brown glitter with a wire wheel and then treat/convert it with FDC Rust Coverter Ultra and then my plan is to spray with some black rust oleum enamel spray cans.

Do u support this approach or do I need to restrategize?

I’d love to think about POR15 but seems like a whole lot of steps fora time and space strapped father of many….
 

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