AmsOil (1 Viewer)

[kbahus]

I can't sit back without saying it but I think extended oil change intervals are the worst idea ever. I work on euro cars where 10-15k mileage intervals are the norm and pull a lot of valve covers and cams for reseals. Cars that run the factory 15k intervals look terrible almost every time. The one car that will always stick out in my mind was a B5 S4 that was supposedly run with Amsoil since it left the dealer lot. I performed a timing service and resealed the valve train. Upon removal of the valve covers I was greeted with wiped out camshaft bearing surfaces, extremely dark stained metal surfaces, and just plain nastiness. I wish I could remember all of the details like mileage intervals, but after seeing that I will never run extended intervals. Not trying to hate or anything, just wanted to add my real world experience.

 

[04UZJ100]

I can't sit back without saying it but I think extended oil change intervals are the worst idea ever. I work on euro cars where 10-15k mileage intervals are the norm and pull a lot of valve covers and cams for reseals. Cars that run the factory 15k intervals look terrible almost every time. The one car that will always stick out in my mind was a B5 S4 that was supposedly run with Amsoil since it left the dealer lot. I performed a timing service and resealed the valve train. Upon removal of the valve covers I was greeted with wiped out camshaft bearing surfaces, extremely dark stained metal surfaces, and just plain nastiness. I wish I could remember all of the details like mileage intervals, but after seeing that I will never run extended intervals. Not trying to hate or anything, just wanted to add my real world experience.

Audi's are notorious for this problem in general. Especially with direct injection. FSI as they call it I think.

 

[kbahus]

Audi's are notorious for this problem in general. Especially with direct injection. FSI as they call it I think.

I am not so sure about that statement. I have pulled tons of VW/Audi cams and rarely see wiped out bearing surfaces. These are all on pre-direct injected engines. The FSI/TSI engines have an entire list of other issues with carbon buildup not associated with oiling. When I get to work on Tuesday I will see if I saved the pics of the engine I am talking about, it was a while ago though.

 

[04UZJ100]

I am not so sure about that statement. I have pulled tons of VW/Audi cams and rarely see wiped out bearing surfaces. These are all on pre-direct injected engines. The FSI/TSI engines have an entire list of other issues with carbon buildup not associated with oiling. When I get to work on Tuesday I will see if I saved the pics of the engine I am talking about, it was a while ago though.

Yes, the carbon buildup is what I was referring to. Our 2011 S5 has ~22k on it; however, apparently they updated something (coatings I think) to help reduce its accumulation.

Audi forums seem to lock knowledgeable gear-heads so I rarely visit them.

 

[80t0ylc]

I can't sit back without saying it but I think extended oil change intervals are the worst idea ever. I work on euro cars where 10-15k mileage intervals are the norm and pull a lot of valve covers and cams for reseals. Cars that run the factory 15k intervals look terrible almost every time. The one car that will always stick out in my mind was a B5 S4 that was supposedly run with Amsoil since it left the dealer lot. I performed a timing service and resealed the valve train. Upon removal of the valve covers I was greeted with wiped out camshaft bearing surfaces, extremely dark stained metal surfaces, and just plain nastiness. I wish I could remember all of the details like mileage intervals, but after seeing that I will never run extended intervals. Not trying to hate or anything, just wanted to add my real world experience.

"Extended oil change intervals" alone is a broad statement and leaves a lot open for interpretation. Let me say, I do not work on engines for a living, so I am by no means an expert.

I do know that the term is very attractive to people that consider vehicle maintenance to be a thorn in their side. And also there are some that like it because it they believe it allows them to slide more on oil changes. Truely, though, most manufacturer recommendations today, are approaching "extended interval", due to better and more consistant engine oil specs.

I believe that to extend the oil change interval you need to use a quality bypass system and a quality synthetic oil such as The Amsoil Signature Series. There are lower grades of Amsoil out there, but only the Signature Series carries the (up to) 25k mile spec. But, even with these, you can not be negligent. You still need to closely monitor both miles and time. Either can do in an engine if oil changes are neglected.

 

[Tools R Us]

I can't sit back without saying it but I think extended oil change intervals are the worst idea ever. I work on euro cars where 10-15k mileage intervals are the norm and pull a lot of valve covers and cams for reseals. Cars that run the factory 15k intervals look terrible almost every time. The one car that will always stick out in my mind was a B5 S4 that was supposedly run with Amsoil since it left the dealer lot. I performed a timing service and resealed the valve train. Upon removal of the valve covers I was greeted with wiped out camshaft bearing surfaces, extremely dark stained metal surfaces, and just plain nastiness. I wish I could remember all of the details like mileage intervals, but after seeing that I will never run extended intervals. Not trying to hate or anything, just wanted to add my real world experience.

Some motor designs are more susceptible than others, but this can be mainly be traced to driving habits/use. Most times, brand/grade of oil has zero to do with it. lf a motor is mainly used in short trip mode, it will have carbon/sludge issues, especially in cool and/or humid conditions.

All motor compress water out of the air, large quantities of it. If you have ever run an air compressor, then drained it, lots of water comes out? It is say 10 cfm, a motor is say 300 cfm. When the motor is turned off, cools, the water vapor condenses, when restarted it turns back into vapor, rises to the valve cover area, where it is drawn off by the breather system. If the motor is short run, not run often at full operating temp, the cycle can't complete and will continually accumulate moisture, acids, etc, this is deposited as sludge. Any motor that is often run in short cycles needs to have the oil changed more often. Regardless of motor design, oil brand/type, will always build sludge at a much higher rate than a motor that is operated more often and longer at operating temp.

 

[KS-Ryan]

I can't sit back without saying it but I think extended oil change intervals are the worst idea ever.

And I can show you countless oil analysis' where running extended intervals are just fine. Changing synthetic oil every 5k miles is just wasting your money (**unless you're doing very short trips where the engine is not getting up to temperature**).

 

[Tools R Us]

... It traps particles down between 1 - 2 microns.

Good advertising copy, but, totally irrelevant to motor operation/life. The filter that I normally run is rated at ~5 micron, way overkill for motor application. 5 micron = 0.000196850394, will easily wiz through any oil clearance in a motor with zero contact or damage.

... As I've explained before, on the Amsoil bypass system, the bypass filter samples the oil.

It doesn't "sample" anything, a small portion of the oil pumped, is bypassed through it. They are nothing new, lots of motors used them as the primary filter, including the F motor in Cruisers. Lots of them are still running today.

If you are loosing flow through it, there are only a couple of reasons: The motor is making lots of junk or, more likely; it has very low pressure differential across the filter, in other words very low flow to start with.

... But, if you're running extended intervals with synthetic oil and a bypass system, you want to be damn sure that both of your filters are still functioning. It concerned me when I read that Stu was not changing the bypass when he was changing the full flow and his oil. IMHO, a working bypass filter is an integral part of running extended intervals successfully.

Why, says what authority, with what test data? Lots of motors run extended intervals, with great life, test analysis results, etc. I know of several fleets the run 10-15k change intervals with off the shelf filters and dino oil. They are beat day and night by employee drivers and routinely go 200k+ before being retired. And they are domestic motors, IMHO, not built to the standard of the 1FZ, should be a cake walk for a 1FZ and is as shown by lots of test analysis results posted on this forum.

 

[80t0ylc]

Good advertising copy, but, totally irrelevant to motor operation/life. The filter that I normally run is rated at ~5 micron, way overkill for motor application. 5 micron = 0.000196850394, will easily wiz through any oil clearance in a motor with zero contact or damage.......

You drive an 80 and you're gonna complain about overkill? Anyway, no advertising involved - I don't pick up a paycheck from Amsoil, I'm just an inactive dealer and only for the discount.

.......It doesn't "sample" anything, a small portion of the oil pumped, is bypassed through it. They are nothing new, lots of motors used them as the primary filter, including the F motor in Cruisers. Lots of them are still running today........

Wrong. Sample is the proper term used to describe the flow when it is not in the essential flow path of oil through the oil pump. Amsoil bypass filters use a much finer filter media and either you are misinformed or some one is incorrectly using bypass filters if it's the primary filter in an engine (at least if they are Amsoil bypass filters). It would be naive or just plain stupid to do it. They have no safety bypass valve like a full flow so if it clogs - you starve your lube system - quick death to any engine - right?

......If you are loosing flow through it, there are only a couple of reasons: The motor is making lots of junk or, more likely; it has very low pressure differential across the filter, in other words very low flow to start with.........

Sorry, you are wrong again. Let me see if I can dig out an old diagram of the dual remote filter that shows in detail the setup and path.

........Why, says what authority, with what test data? Lots of motors run extended intervals, with great life, test analysis results, etc. I know of several fleets the run 10-15k change intervals with off the shelf filters and dino oil. They are beat day and night by employee drivers and routinely go 200k+ before being retired. And they are domestic motors, IMHO, not built to the standard of the 1FZ, should be a cake walk for a 1FZ and is as shown by lots of test analysis results posted on this forum.

What does IMHO mean to you? I live & drive where the temps get below 0*F frequently and sometimes don't get above 32* for days or weeks in the winter. And I've read posts by guys in Canada & Alaska that swear by synthetic - they might not use the bypass, but so what?

You live and drive where it's rare to get below freezing at night or anytime. You probably don't have to worry about engine oil or gear oil gel-ing and not flowing in cold temps. Dino works fine where you live. Synthetic was designed to work better in extremes. And it's proven to protect better in extreme heat also.

I don't know about you, but I like having the overkill of synthetic and a bypass in my 80 and to be honest, I'm gonna keep using them.

 

[Tools R Us]

... Anyway, no advertising involved - I don't pick up a paycheck from Amsoil, I'm just an inactive dealer and only for the discount.

I wasn't referring to your advertizing, was referring to the filter manufactures advertizing. As in my case, Purolator rates the filter that I run at 5 micron, way overkill, does nothing to extend engine life over a say 20 micron filter. But some will believe that it is somehow better, so great advertizing for them.

... Wrong. Sample is the proper term used to describe the flow when it is not in the essential flow path of oil through the oil pump.

Maybe in "Amsoil jargin" I have never seen it referred to as anything but bypass in the tech manuals or FSM's that I use?

Amsoil bypass filters use a much finer filter media and either you are misinformed or some one is incorrectly using bypass filters if it's the primary filter in an engine (at least if they are Amsoil bypass filters). It would be naive or just plain stupid to do it. They have no safety bypass valve like a full flow so if it clogs - you starve your lube system - quick death to any engine - right?

Tell that to Toyota and a bunch of other manufactures! This might come as a complete shock, but Amsoil did not invent the bypass system. I have a '72 F motor in the shop that came from the factory with a bypass system. It only filters what is bypassed, if the filter becomes restricted, none of the oil is filtered.

Sorry, you are wrong again. Let me see if I can dig out an old diagram of the dual remote filter that shows in detail the setup and path.

Post it up.

What does IMHO mean to you? I live & drive where the temps get below 0*F frequently and sometimes don't get above 32* for days or weeks in the winter. And I've read posts by guys in Canada & Alaska that swear by synthetic - they might not use the bypass, but so what?

I'm sorry that you have to deal with the cold?

You live and drive where it's rare to get below freezing at night or anytime. You probably don't have to worry about engine oil or gear oil gel-ing and not flowing in cold temps. Dino works fine where you live. Synthetic was designed to work better in extremes. And it's proven to protect better in extreme heat also.

I don't know about you, but I like having the overkill of synthetic and a bypass in my 80 and to be honest, I'm gonna keep using them.

I run syn (Mobil One) in my rig, mainly because of the longer change interval, I'm lazy and oil changes are not my favorite thing.

 

[80t0ylc]

..........Maybe in "Amsoil jargin" I have never seen it referred to as anything but bypass in the tech manuals or FSM's that I use?.........

Yes, that is how Amsoil described it.

..........Tell that to Toyota and a bunch of other manufactures! This might come as a complete shock, but Amsoil did not invent the bypass system. I have a '72 F motor in the shop that came from the factory with a bypass system. It only filters what is bypassed, if the filter becomes restricted, none of the oil is filtered..........

No surprise, never said they did. IMHO, Amsoil has one of the best bypass systems. Does your '72 have 2 independant filters - 1 full flow and 1 bypass?

..........Post it up.......

Couple of links of current Amsoil info. My system is described in the 2nd link:

DUAL-GARD Oil Bypass System

General Use Dual Remote Oil Bypass Unit

......... I'm lazy and oil changes are not my favorite thing.

Me too. I hated the 1FZ's original oil filter location. 1 reason I'm enjoying my remote mounted filters

 

[Tools R Us]

...
I also mailed off a sample for analysis...

Post up the result?

 

[Otamiway]

Post up the result?

Hey Tools,

Thanks for the reminder...... Happy NY all

Will post them up shortly..

Stu

 

[Otamiway]

Hey all,

Dug up the oil analysis report..

The base number was flagged as being a little low...... Amsoil said number is about right for 11K miles

So far so good.

Stu

 

[Tools R Us]

Nice result.

 

[Otamiway]

Nice result.

Thanks

I will continue to run it for a yearly oil change..

 

[toynut]

Curios as to why you have done this "mod" in the first place I believe with synthetics you can run 6 months with a normal set up , even modern conventional oil "Dyno" oil in modern cars have extended the oil change intervals up to 7000 miles. Would you not be further ahead to just change your oil and filter more often, I personally purchase Napa Gold oil and filters they are the same as Wix . I change my wife and my oil every 3 months I get a discount and purchase my filters by the 1/2 dozen and buy a couple of cases of oil at a time, I feel a lot better about having clean oil in my motor every 3 months and am not a fan of synthetic in older motors - If I ever purchase a new vehicle, I may decide to switch to synthetic from the get go - but I would still change my oil filter every 3 months .
I like the idea of the remote dual filter kit for better filtration and added capacity, But I would go with duall paper filters and change them out every oil change.
In my heavy duty diesel work truck I go 20,000 kms or 6 month's between oil changes with dyno oil and this truck works it's ass off .

 

[Otamiway]

Toynut,

I went the the bypass system to accomplish a number of things:

Longer Change interval
Greater capacity
Finer filtration
Easier changes
Quality setup

I can't say enough about the quality of the Amsoil system and oils. I actually run Amsoil is all locations.. Rears, Trans, TC and PS.

We can spend all day or year discussing, dino Vs synthetic oils. My preference is to run a high quality synthetic that I can rely on for 12 month or 25k miles.


Stu

 

[toynut]

Fair enough ! I just don't find changing the oil to be a big deal, maybe I am weird I actually enjoy it , but on the other point's I get you, I think it would be nice to install a dual filter kit for the added capacity and extra filtration, I would just run the same oil change interval's, what's the cost to set this up and do oil and filter changes per year ? if you amortize it over say 10 years ? I would assume it would still be cheaper to change out your oil every 3 months ? I would never use the Amsoil myself just because of the way they are set up, The MLM aspect of it turns me off, but I do know some hardcrore bracket racers that swear by the stuff. I just doubt that it's any better than any other synthetic oil out there .

 

[Tools R Us]

Fair enough ! I just don't find changing the oil to be a big deal, maybe I am weird I actually enjoy it , but on the other point's I get you, I think it would be nice to install a dual filter kit for the added capacity and extra filtration, I would just run the same oil change interval's, what's the cost to set this up and do oil and filter changes per year ? if you amortize it over say 10 years ? I would assume it would still be cheaper to change out your oil every 3 months ? I would never use the Amsoil myself just because of the way they are set up, The MLM aspect of it turns me off, but I do know some hardcrore bracket racers that swear by the stuff. I just doubt that it's any better than any other synthetic oil out there .

The 1fz has zero need for extra filtration. It is a fun, fiddly project, but will net zero motor life benefit. Check this result, almost twice the miles, dino oil, stock filter and the same test result:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-...erval-309-xxx-miles-few-questions-inside.html