Advice on the condition of this turbo? Thanks.

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In case it hasn't been mentioned: If you do go with the re-build kit from Engines Australia, buy all new OEM oil seals to replace the ones that come with the kit.

I spent a few days after the rebuild sourcing leaks that were all attributable to those eff'n aftermarket seals. Maybe it was just my bad luck. But the OEM seals are best and are cheap insurance...

Best of luck.

P.S. You could afford some sweet pistons - if you finished those windows....:beer:
 
cracked precups like yours are very common, and most shops like you stated wont change them.

they can easily be knocked out with a punch down the injector hole like you stated, the head milled and the preco's installed and checked to see how proud they are, i believe they are allowed to be up to .002" or .003" proud but your FSM will confirm that

we mill most of our heads with the preco's in, it involves a good tip, a little oil/atf fluid/crc on the preco and the right speed. allthough i have had to use a surface grinder on a couple of larger heads.

have you checked the head for straightness/warping yet to determine if it does need machining? also are you going to have it crack tested?

also a little off topic but can anyone point me to a thread where a 1hz has had the precos come apart and kill a motor?
 
Most of the destroyed engines from dropped precups that supposedly litter this forum are 3b's.

Have not seen a HZ yet on the forum destroyed by a dropped precup....
 
Well if the 1HZ is immune from precup droppage then run the cracked ones, by all means. Everyone here is correct, indeed I can't seem to find a 1HZ on the forum :hhmm: that was destroyed by such...

Still from your pics if there is a difference in block overhang between the 1HZ and the 3B its very slight.

As for the milling, are you sure your head was cut and not ground? (or sanded)
Once again this could be part of the difference between the B and HZ, on the HZ every shop said to mill (with a cutter) they would need to come out, we did a basic scratch test on their base and the metal is MUCH harder than the surrounding steel.

It's not a huge deal either way, the difference of $100 to replace or not, that is not huge in the scale of the rest of the project, but I still like to make sure it would be funds well spent.

How is it that the sort of guy who would stress about the process used to resurface his head would reinstall it with cracked parts?! I don't follow the logic.
 
In my motor (3B) the precup is the only component that causes me to loose sleep. Pre cups crack and fall apart into your motor. It is a recepie well proven. Put new ones in. And, I have pulled my head a year after new cups put in and they were crack free. They were ceramic coated and ported mind you.
 
In case it hasn't been mentioned: If you do go with the re-build kit from Engines Australia, buy all new OEM oil seals to replace the ones that come with the kit.

I spent a few days after the rebuild sourcing leaks that were all attributable to those eff'n aftermarket seals. Maybe it was just my bad luck. But the OEM seals are best and are cheap insurance...

Best of luck.

P.S. You could afford some sweet pistons - if you finished those windows....:beer:
HUmm, thanks Shred. I hate oil leaks, will be using the Mr T ones for sure then, thanks for the heads up.
What about the O rings and crush seals? Were they any good?

The 60 windows are basically "finished" Having the first set cut now. With how expensive those damn parts are though there would have to be WAY more of a profit margin to help pay for pistons. ;p
I'll post the parts breakdown soon.

cracked precups like yours are very common, and most shops like you stated wont change them.
they can easily be knocked out with a punch down the injector hole like you stated, the head milled and the preco's installed and checked to see how proud they are, i believe they are allowed to be up to .002" or .003" proud but your FSM will confirm that
we mill most of our heads with the preco's in, it involves a good tip, a little oil/atf fluid/crc on the preco and the right speed. allthough i have had to use a surface grinder on a couple of larger heads.
have you checked the head for straightness/warping yet to determine if it does need machining? also are you going to have it crack tested?
also a little off topic but can anyone point me to a thread where a 1hz has had the precos come apart and kill a motor?
Good to know about actually being able to knock them out. I was concerned to just give it a shot since I've also read that the most likely place for heads to crack is from the pre-cup hole.
The recession or protrusion on the cups can measure +- 0.0016" So, pretty much flush. :p
I don't have a straight edge that I trust enough to check the length of the head for flat, will wait and see.
As for a story of HZ cups coming apart and affecting the motor, I can not find any evidence of that. I did come across one mention that someone thought they were loosing coolant through a cracked precup and head gasket, but that was not backed up with anything.
It seems to be an issue of opinion.


Most of the destroyed engines from dropped precups that supposedly litter this forum are 3b's.

Have not seen a HZ yet on the forum destroyed by a dropped precup....
Can't find one, lots of Bs, but then again Bs are older engines, maybe given more time it will be an issue that starts to pop up with the HZs as well.
I've spent a lot of time digging through Aussie websites as well though without finding any evidence.


Well if the 1HZ is immune from precup droppage then run the cracked ones, by all means. Everyone here is correct, indeed I can't seem to find a 1HZ on the forum :hhmm: that was destroyed by such...

Still from your pics if there is a difference in block overhang between the 1HZ and the 3B its very slight.

How is it that the sort of guy who would stress about the process used to resurface his head would reinstall it with cracked parts?! I don't follow the logic.
Now now, I was just curious what process was used to level the head on the B. :)From Doorslammer's response above it sounds like the HZs cups can be cut as well, but from the sounds of it most shops don't want to risk their cutters.

As you mention, there is only a tiny bit of difference between the HZ and B cup profile though.

To me, if I have to level or machine the head, I would want to pull them, just don't like the idea of cutting dissimilar metals together like that, especially when the clearances are 0.001" Not to mention that a cut would remove material from an already weak cup.

Thanks for all the insight from everyone, helps to weigh the opinions.
$100 is not much compared to the rest of the project, but it's still $100.
If the HZ cups are just going to crack as soon as new ones are in there, it might be a $100 wasted.
Knowing me, I'll probably end up replacing them anyway, but I like to agonize about stuff like this. :doh:


:cheers:
KR
 
For comparison, here are the 3B and HZ cups side by side, the 3B pictured is amaurer's pic from his engine.
There are actually a few more subtle differences than I thought.


precups.jpg
 
In my motor (3B) the precup is the only component that causes me to loose sleep. Pre cups crack and fall apart into your motor. It is a recepie well proven. Put new ones in. And, I have pulled my head a year after new cups put in and they were crack free. They were ceramic coated and ported mind you.


Also it is the only thing that worries me.... The Mercedes design, (espeically the OM604/5/6) is just awesome - they cant fall out because they are inserted from the camshaft side :-) No wonder they are so good. of course Im on the lookout for more torque reliably and the TD42 Nuissans share the same basic design as Toyota with reliability... The problems we are facing now with the Nissans are broken cranks.... Not having that issue with Toyotas though...
 
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Ok, so I got a big box of parts from Engines Australia, seems like a good kit, got all the bearings, seals, and new pistons.

IMG_9894.jpg


The bearings are Taiho and ACL, gaskets look good, I will be going with Mr T for the oil seals though.

I've got a question about that:

Does any one have a good part number for the No.2 timing gear case oil seal?
There are three oil seals on the front case:
The small cam seal #90311-32017
The No.1 oil seal #90311-58006
But then the No.2 oil seal which is the lower crank combined oil and dust seal #90311-58007 does not come up in the Toyota system as a good number.

Anyone have a good number?


You can see the seals in the lower left of this image, the 11302A section:

diag_1iBaKvJ.jpg


I've checked and this same part is listed for the and HZ, HD-T engines in all years/applications.
But no luck on the toyota part.



Right now the block and head are at the machine shop getting checked out.
:whoops:
KR
 
Ok, I'll go in that order, call Cdan and if no luck there I'll call you beno. :)


Past that, I just heard from the machine guy; the block is fine but the head is checked all over the place, between the valves, inside the pre-cup chambers, etc.

He said none of them are "cracks" but they are checked.

:censor:


He is a particular fellow (why I went with him for the work) and he does a lot of small and mid-sized diesel work, he says that most shops ask him not to bother magnufluxing the heads since they "don't even want to know" he said there is something to the "they all do that" mentality but it's not really the way he works, and it's not the way I work either.

Any opinions on the checks? Do they truly "all do that" or now am I really screwed?

(the way this year has been going, I'm just going to assume that I'm really screwed) :censor:
 
Basically every set of valves has these little cracks between them, none of them even get close to the valve seats but they are there.
A few of the pre-cups have little cracks that head into the cylinder area.

The machine guy says that he has virtually never seen a diesel engine without these same cracks (and he has seen a lot of engine heads) 95% have the same thing and nothing is done about them.
Doesn't change the fact that they are there though.

Anyone else have experience with these kinds of cracks on the HZ?
 
Anyone else have experience with these kinds of cracks on the HZ?

I don't see many opened 1HZ down here .. ( still rolling never opened ) but plenty 2H and all with that kind of " cracks " ( I wouldn't call as is ) and still doing the job day by day .. not even with clean oil of carefully drivers thinking with it's the best oil or waiting for engine to warm up before rev up to the limit ..
 
My 2H looked worse than that and was leaking into comb. gas into coolant system. I don't envy your position at all. It's tough to decide on what to do as I'm not sure welding and machining can be done or would hold up.

Best of luck...
 
If your guy says run it(the head) throw it back on,at least its one of the easiest parts to swap,you can get them new,just factor in a new head in the next 12 months or so,you can still get even 2h heads new,12ht you can not :(.
 
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