You could install the 4plus housing spacers if your going to cut n turn it anyway. Then you don't have to run spacers. They are pretty easy to install. Then your front and rear width will match.
Builds Adventure Cruiser "Rosey" - How Many More Times...
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- #42
is that on their website, I didn't see it when I looked? If I went that route then I would need lengthened axles, what do those typically run? I got the wheel spacers for free.
He doesn't have them on his website. The axle housing spacers are 60 bucks a piece. Trail gear has a 30 spline chromoly shaft they keep in stock that works for the short side. The shaft is 120 bucks or so. For the long side you would need to have a axle shaft made. Trail gear will make custom length inner axle shafts for around 200 bucks. So your looking at around 600 bucks in parts. You will need a tie rod as well and drag link. I think you can get DOM tie rod/drag link kits from marlin crawler and cut and weld yourself or have them make you some. Keep in mind you can't use tie rod ends for the drag link. The drag link has to have drag link ends.
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- #44
that would help out a lot. A buddy and I are going to use a cheap mig welder to tack up the hangers and then hire a welder to come do the final burn.
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Sorry dude, I respect your postings and insight but this is just not a logical alternative to a pair of wheel spacers.
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- #46
It would make getting replacement components extrememely difficult in the event of a breakage. I can run free whel spacers or pay nearly 1,000 on custom parts.
In my opinion it depends on what you want to achieve. I don't know exactly what this guy is shooting for but its an option. I wheeled on 2" spacers for about a year on my fj40 in moab. After that one year the trunions were wore out, in addition the tire scrub was pretty bad which as you know is tougher on steering components. But their are work arounds for that. You can install six shooters, bigger trunion bearings or trunion eliminators or replace the stock ones as needed. They may last longer if its more of a pavement princess. Its also tougher on the knuckle balls since it has more leverage on it. The additional scrub radius can also interfere with fender clearance since tire swings as it turns rather than pivots in the center of the tread. Wheel offset plays a major role in all of it. Its likely not as big of a deal on your rig that has wheels that suck the tire way in with tons of backspacing.
Its pretty tough to break chromoly front shafts. If you do break one you just pull it and run shaftless until you get home. Its up to you what you want to do. Im just throwing options out their. Its your life, wheel spacers is where it all starts to spiral down. First its wheel spacers, then perscription drug abuse, then meth lab in the basement.
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tmxmotorsports
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Hit me up on pm we can talk.
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- #49
@White Stripe I wasn't trying to be volatile, just wanted to explain my reasoning a bit more. When I finally get to do an engine swap then I think that route would definitely be better as the torque would be greater. Hopefully by then income will more disposable!
I didn't think you were being volatile, hope I didn't come across that way either, I was trying to joke around a little bit. Finances are a big part of the build. Spacers will work, I wheeled pretty hard on spacers. Others here have too. If your converting your elocker to pneumatic try and get the strongest actuator that will fit. Mine is a little on the small side and takes a bit longer than I would like to do its thing. But it works and is cheap.
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- #51
Tone is often lost through text so just wanted to make sure there was no misunderstanding. Do you have a write up on your pneumatic Conversion? Which actuator did you use?
If you can find a IFS hub from a mini truck or 4Runner the WMS is different (wider) than a FJ60/62 other than that the hub is the same.
You might pay $100 for them. And if you haven’t rebuilt your front axle you would be fine to do it when you break down the axle for your C&T.
These hubs don’t change anything else in the front axle (same stock shafts and spindles) the just have the wheel mounted further out on the hub than the FJ60 style.
When it comes to brakes you can upgrade up to Tundra brakes up front if you want to go big (requires 17” wheels)
Or take a look at this link for modifying / resusinginb stock components.
IFS Hub Conversion
Check out my build thread, I go over adding an 80 rear axle and these IFS hubs with Tundra brakes.
FitzJ60 1983 FJ60 Build
Fun starts at post #126
You might pay $100 for them. And if you haven’t rebuilt your front axle you would be fine to do it when you break down the axle for your C&T.
These hubs don’t change anything else in the front axle (same stock shafts and spindles) the just have the wheel mounted further out on the hub than the FJ60 style.
When it comes to brakes you can upgrade up to Tundra brakes up front if you want to go big (requires 17” wheels)
Or take a look at this link for modifying / resusinginb stock components.
IFS Hub Conversion
Check out my build thread, I go over adding an 80 rear axle and these IFS hubs with Tundra brakes.
FitzJ60 1983 FJ60 Build
Fun starts at post #126
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- #53
Thanks for the info, I already have 16" wheels bought. So it looks like Tundra brakes are out, which is a bummer I do like the IFS idea, and that could be done at a later date too.
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Again, you still have to spend $500 in parts for that...
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- #55
But I can drive the rig on my SOA setup and acquire those parts over time and swap those in during an in depth routine maintenance. They won’t require a high up front cost which would be needed for other suggestions.
I cant remember which actuator I used. You can see it installed in my fj40 build thread below but I don't go into great detail. If you need help along the way I can give some insight from what I remember. I followed a thread somewhere in the 80s section that documented it well and used a actuator that was recommended in that thread.
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- #57
Well I was at the UPS store to ship something, and while I was there I asked about shipping my front axle housing to Cruiser Outfitters....The woman quoted me at $930 something. That is not even close to worth it...UPS is who Bryce said they use when I reached out to them. Maybe the woman just didn't look at all the options...
tmxmotorsports
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I have an ls engine on its way from Vegas shipping is 450 for that so i would try to ship some other way or get another quote.
Talk to Cruiser outfitters on who they have used for freight. I would say check out Fastenal 3PL freight quote. (as long as it can be strapped to a pallet)
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- #60
I would imagine Fastenal would be the best bet, that is how my rear axle was shipped to me. Honestly though, I think I will just wing it and see what happens.
