Adventure Chaser 100 series build

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Humpzilla said:
Hey! Just figured I'd give you a heads up that SCS appears to have these wheels back in stock. I know you mentioned you were looking for a 5th, so I figured I'd give you a heads up if you didn't already know.

Also, I just ordered a set and am trying to figure out if I need to order lugs .... or do the tires come with a set?

If they don't, is it the SCS Spline Lugs M14x1.5 that I need? They've got a few options and I don't have the slightest clue how to figure out which ones I need. Haha.
Click to expand...
thanks! I actually ordered my 5th last week from them! thank you though!

the wheels don't come with the lugnuts and you'll need lugnuts. the stock lugnuts won't work on most aftermarket wheels.
Yup M14x1.5 is the one
it's mentioned in this thread too
forum.ih8mud.com

2002 Wheel Lug Nut Size?

forum.ih8mud.com forum.ih8mud.com
 
finally remembered to snap photos of the reverse lights i put in.
tried to make sure I didn't overexpose them.

too bad the rear swing out is gonna cover them up now!

it's these https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BRX6ZG5/?tag=ihco-20

IMG_20201120_191323.webp


IMG_20201120_191302.webp
 
35s mounted
4x4 labs rear bumper installed

35s definitely take commitment. that's why i got the rear bumper! ha
cranked TB a bit more (drivers side is like stuck now)
pinch weld smashing is easy.
had to push my sliders backwards a little bit.
fender liner trimming is a PITA.
I've gone in and trimmed a bit each time. I'm about to just cut a good chunk out now

DSC_9965.webp
 
chudly said:
Got some new goodies but also some maintenance work needs to get done first.


Replaced steering rack with OEM purchased from McGeorge Toyota with new outer tie rods and poly bushings
Found a small tear in the CV boot right where the PFRAN clamps were clamped down. So I just decided to order an entirely new axle. still need to get around to that.

also got out in the last snow of the season in April! Getting antsy to get the CV boot fixed so I can hit the trails now that the weather is nice!

View attachment 1702041

View attachment 1702040

View attachment 1702042

View attachment 1702047

View attachment 1702048
Click to expand...
Charles county?
 
Wheelers bump stops installed.
IMG_20210120_130136.jpg



Easy process.
Lift truck just enough
Unscrew original with a pipe wrench or large channel lock pliers


IMG_20210120_130154.jpg



Comparison photo

IMG_20210120_130124.jpg


I put some tape on the allen bolt head and slid it into the new bump stop so it was snug and turned the bump stop itself like an oil filter into the original place. After it goes as far as it goes use the supplied allen wrench

IMG_20210120_130147.jpg



Will be hitting some trails this weekend so will report back!

Oh and these are the ones for 4 runner and FJ Cruise. They don't make a specific Land Cruiser one.
 
first trip out with the bump stops and i rubbed less. just installed some Freedom offroad UCAs also and got alignment back to over 3+
Found a blown shock and ordered some tough dogs and will be getting another alignment again hopefully to get everything fully equalized.

I also just realized I didn't post up that I replaced the muffler with a bosal. the bosal muffler did not have the slot on the outlet but I didn't have any issues and didn't need to put one in myself.
 
Ordered Freedom offroad UCAs.
They are pretty beefy and look well made enough.
My only gripe is the proprietary ball joints that they sell separately.
My caster before was 1.8-2. Now they are 3.5-3.8
Will be getting another alignment not from Firestone to see how I can dial everything in.
Just noticed they are on amazon now too https://www.amazon.com/Freedom-OffRoad-Control-1998-2007-Cruiser/dp/B086WNRRCF?dchild=1&keywords=freedom+offroad+upper+control+arms+land+cruiser&qid=1613594492&s=automotive&sr=1-1&linkCode=sl1&tag=djc81-20&linkId=b0145a899be71811eeeff2f4f327564f&language=en_US&ref_=as_li_ss_tl but I ordered direct from them at Freedom Off-Road - Lift Kits and Leveling Kits - https://www.freedomoffroadusa.com/

IMG_20210206_114955.jpg


IMG_20210206_115004.jpg


IMG_20210206_115020.jpg


IMG_20210206_131140.jpg
 
Last edited:
Last edited:
Hey, nice work on the truck. I'm installing the same switch you did for a light bar. I've got the wiring figured out and pulled through the firewall. But wondering if you had to pull the dash apart in order to get the switch into that location. Can I just pry the little plastic piece out or do I need to cut it out?
 
70 FJ40 said:
Hey, nice work on the truck. I'm installing the same switch you did for a light bar. I've got the wiring figured out and pulled through the firewall. But wondering if you had to pull the dash apart in order to get the switch into that location. Can I just pry the little plastic piece out or do I need to cut it out?
Click to expand...
I think i was able to snake it over from the hole in the firewall. The plastic piece can just be popped out and replaced with one that fits the OEM slot
 
chudly said:
Someone asked why the counter bore holes. This is why
5/16-18 carriage bolt drops right in

View attachment 2415605
Click to expand...
First all, super cool, clean rack!

How deep is the counterbore? Every time I look at this I wonder if they remove too much material -- maybe it's an illusion due to the angle/anodizing removal. Does it extend into the center "square" part of the extrusion (where the end bore is -- the one that people sometimes thread)? Do you think less deep (just through the first lip) would work?
 
imatalltree said:
First all, super cool, clean rack!

How deep is the counterbore? Every time I look at this I wonder if they remove too much material -- maybe it's an illusion due to the angle/anodizing removal. Does it extend into the center "square" part of the extrusion (where the end bore is -- the one that people sometimes thread)? Do you think less deep (just through the first lip) would work?
Click to expand...
not quite sure i follow all the way what you're saying but if you put in the carriage bolt and then use a washer and nut to hold it in place hasn't gone anywhere. I don'tusually leave anything on there
 
chudly said:
not quite sure i follow all the way what you're saying but if you put in the carriage bolt and then use a washer and nut to hold it in place hasn't gone anywhere. I don'tusually leave anything on there
Click to expand...
Thanks. Basically I'm wondering if they take away more material than necessary to slip a carriage bolt in there. From the photos I've seen it looks like that just drilling a couple mm through the first "wings" of the track would be enough room to slip in the carriage bolt, but instead Tnutz seems to go much deeper and drill into more structural parts of the channel, potentially weakening the end of the bar. Again, I've only seen it in photos so who knows.
 
imatalltree said:
Thanks. Basically I'm wondering if they take away more material than necessary to slip a carriage bolt in there. From the photos I've seen it looks like that just drilling a couple mm through the first "wings" of the track would be enough room to slip in the carriage bolt, but instead Tnutz seems to go much deeper and drill into more structural parts of the channel, potentially weakening the end of the bar. Again, I've only seen it in photos so who knows.
Click to expand...
Ah I see what you mean now. I will take a look in a bit and report back
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom