Greek, how's the Ace paint job holding up as it approaches its third birthday?
ACE tintable Rustoleum product (1 Viewer)
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Greek, how's the Ace paint job holding up as it approaches its third birthday?
Wow, the paint looks great! Anyone got an Ace code for Cignus white?
That would be useful information!
If someone can get me a sprayout or sample of Cygnus White I can get it color matched and post the mix formula.
thecrazygreek
A.K.A. TheCraftyGreek
OK, I talked to the guy I sold it to, and asked him about the paint. He said it is still looking great. He doesn't do alot of offroading with it, and it see's about 5k miles per year. No cracking, or peeling etc. He says its been through about 10 or so car washes as well.
Keep in mind I clearcoated it, and I think thats why its holding up so well.
Hope this helps.
Wow, the paint looks great! Anyone got an Ace code for Cignus white?
I'd like the Ace formula for Cygnus white too. If anyone has a sprayout or good color sample I can have it matched and post up the formula.
Brian
Roller Cover
I'm ordering a few of these covers today. I used the foam covers with bad results. The orange peel is pretty bad. Purdy makes great products and with the endorsement of a fellow MUD man I'm sure I will be happy with these. I will get back to you guys after using them.
Gman
I'm ordering a few of these covers today. I used the foam covers with bad results. The orange peel is pretty bad. Purdy makes great products and with the endorsement of a fellow MUD man I'm sure I will be happy with these. I will get back to you guys after using them.
Gman
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Wow, THis thread is old but glad I saw it. I have a couple of spots I need to repair on my 40 and if it matches as well as you guys say it does, then I'm gonna go for it. My rig is dune beige so it shouldn't be hard to match.
purdy cover
I used a purdy cover today and they do work really well. I would highly recommend them if your going to roll your paint on.
Gman
I used a purdy cover today and they do work really well. I would highly recommend them if your going to roll your paint on.
Gman
Ace tintable with Clear coat
When you used the clear coat, did you do all of your coats, do a final sand of 1000 or 1500 grit and then lay the clear? I am using the ACE, love the paint for ease of use, but still have a soft paint after months of drying in Florida sun. I think that I am going to clean, sand with 800 or 1000 and spray a new coat of paint, sand again with 1500 and then lay the clear down that you used. Does that sound reasonable?
Thanks in advance
Tom
When you used the clear coat, did you do all of your coats, do a final sand of 1000 or 1500 grit and then lay the clear? I am using the ACE, love the paint for ease of use, but still have a soft paint after months of drying in Florida sun. I think that I am going to clean, sand with 800 or 1000 and spray a new coat of paint, sand again with 1500 and then lay the clear down that you used. Does that sound reasonable?
Thanks in advance
Tom
Did you use a hardener?
There seems to be alot of ?'s regarding mixing and application of paint, even from me so, if you paint pro's dont mind, please share some tips/pointers with us rooks on how to paint. For instance, when you cut the paint with acetone or mineral spirits, do you just mix it in a separate can? and stir with a stick? Do you have to be precise on the percentage ratios? If you rolled it on, did you wait until the last coat tosand? How many coats are optimal? I am probably just going to touch up a few areas on my rig and paint later but curious as to how to blend the two?
Thx
Thx
thecrazygreek
A.K.A. TheCraftyGreek
Just use a mixing cup, and measure it out. Always better that way. Hardeners arent going to help much. You will need to apply a clearcoat (auto or industrial grade) over the ACE for it to have a chance. I recomened LIC-30 from valspar. Its $45 a gallon, and you want the "BINDER ONLY" when you order it. (clear)
If you go this route you will be happy. If you dont use the clear, it will never really get hard. This is the way I did it on my "Faster Track Resto" in my sig line...
If you go this route you will be happy. If you dont use the clear, it will never really get hard. This is the way I did it on my "Faster Track Resto" in my sig line...
GMAN, Post pics of your roll on paint pls.
Roll on
It has rained here almost every day at some point, since I posted up about the roll on job. I have not done anymore. I don't have a garage or carport. I'll post up pics hopefully soon. July typically is real dry here in TN
Gman
It has rained here almost every day at some point, since I posted up about the roll on job. I have not done anymore. I don't have a garage or carport. I'll post up pics hopefully soon. July typically is real dry here in TN
Gman
Thx, looking forward to seeing them. I have a BIL in TN and he says it's been one of the wettest seasons he remembers in a long time.
I used their red paint and paint thinner and a hardener and rolled it .Did the hood with the same paint but used ace spray cans .Both ways came out nicely IMOP but required wet sanding and buffing
Sprayed some ACE with my harbor freight gun for the wheeling rig. Still have to pain the front half. I'll get some better pictures once its in the light. Painted over cracked bondo but just wanted to get it on solid color.
Looks good in the light you've got it in LP. I'm thinking I might try this route for getting a legit satin finished olive color (roll on since I don't have a compressor) for my 62. My biggest thing though is UV resistance. Gotta be able to stand up to sun fade.
I am currently using the rustoleum brand paint in the gallon size, to paint the entire cruiser. Went with gloss black. rolling it on with the special Purdy roller for ultra smooth surface.
On the instructions, it reads the paint needs to dry a full 24 hrs between recoats. My question is do I need to scuff it down again for proper adhesion? Did anyone else wait the full 24 hrs between re-coats?
Thanks.
CRUISER TIME
On the instructions, it reads the paint needs to dry a full 24 hrs between recoats. My question is do I need to scuff it down again for proper adhesion? Did anyone else wait the full 24 hrs between re-coats?
Thanks.
CRUISER TIME
I didn't scuff I just re coated 24 hours later.
ACE only had gloss when I went. I used a cap from a WW2 olive drab. It wasn't a perfect match but I like the color. I have the mixing code if anyone is interested
I didn't scuff I just re coated 24 hours later.
ACE only had gloss when I went. I used a cap from a WW2 olive drab. It wasn't a perfect match but I like the color. I have the mixing code if anyone is interested
Is what they gave you also gloss, or did they get the finish fairly close to flat or semi gloss? If not high gloss, I'm definitely interested.