?? about installing Acura RDX seats, airbags and wiring ??

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I found a REALLY nice set of 2010 Acura RDX seats in a U Pull. Black leather, heated, great condition. Car even had all the glass intact and heater switches there. Bad parts are the rails are a little wide, they are expensive, $97 each and i dont know if the airbags need disabled.

Thats my question. Do the airbags need to be disabled and how is that done? Can i just not run power to them or do the seats need to be opened up and have them removed?

Also, i know the wires gets pretty complex on these seats. I imagine it is just a matter f getting 12v and ground to the right leeds for the seat motors. Then maybe a little more complected for the heaters so you can get different temps from the heaters. Is that about right? Or do some of these seats have an entire "computer or brain" such as a control box that is needed to make them work. That would really suck if it was that involved. Any ideas?
 
See if you can find an acura FSM online somewhere. It should tell you what wires are there and what they do. Having owned a TL of that vintage, I can say Acura seats are as comfy as they come--Denver to Billings with 3 potty breaks and nary a complaint from my normally achy back.
 
Thats my question. Do the airbags need to be disabled and how is that done? Can i just not run power to them or do the seats need to be opened up and have them removed?

Airbags are electrically charged. Just unplug them.

If you decide to cut the wires, do one at a time. Static electricity across the wires can set them off.
 
Airbags are electrically charged. Just unplug them.

If you decide to cut the wires, do one at a time. Static electricity across the wires can set them off.

So really to failsafe the airbag leads you need to cap the pigtail?

For example: Nip each wire individually, and crimp a cap terminal (maybe stuff RTV in it too pre-crimp?) -then stuff the shortened pigtail into the seat.

I'm asking, as lately I've been looking at seats & seems most worth the time have curtain airbags in them & I'm new to this territory too.

I saw a set of grey Caddy CTSV seats for cheap, but I was clueless on the curtain bag, it had a tag sewn onto the outer seams w/ the ID for bags.
Otherwise it seemed they would fit with work.
 
So really to failsafe the airbag leads you need to cap the pigtail?

For example: Nip each wire individually, and crimp a cap terminal (maybe stuff RTV in it too pre-crimp?) -then stuff the shortened pigtail into the seat.

.

Yes, that would be best. Something to isolate those two leads.
 
Just cut the red wire... um NO NO, I mean the blue wire

Seriously tho, just leave it unplugged tucked under the seat, nothing is going off unless you give it a +charge
 
Just cut the red wire... um NO NO, I mean the blue wire

Seriously tho, just leave it unplugged tucked under the seat, nothing is going off unless you give it a +charge

Spoken like a CA guy.

**If** static electricity can kick off a bag - then the 2-4 weeks we have of continuously frozen winter days & nights with little / no humidity where even the dog has static cling - means I can just see me in my wool jacket hopping in the seat only to get greeted by ::BLAM!::

-And once the 'starry tunnel' refocuses, find myself either sitting in the seat, shellshocked -- or laying motionless on the ground staring at the sky, debating even getting up.

Midwest & NE guys know the static we get when the temps dip <30* continuously for days/weeks - I know my luck & nipping leads is just a bet hedged.
 
Thanks guys. Sounds like it is basically a non issue and i can focus on the other challenges. Wiring motors and heaters and mounting.

Also, i have a 94 with the early style black dash with dark brown interior/carpet. Also no rear seats as it has a sleeping platform covered in black carpet. So with all the black i always figured black seats. Now my wife is suggesting finding tan leather seats. What do you guys think, black or tan with the early style dark brown interior?
 
Spoken like a CA guy.

**If** static electricity can kick off a bag - then the 2-4 weeks we have of continuously frozen winter days & nights with little / no humidity where even the dog has static cling - means I can just see me in my wool jacket hopping in the seat only to get greeted by ::BLAM!::

-And once the 'starry tunnel' refocuses, find myself either sitting in the seat, shellshocked -- or laying motionless on the ground staring at the sky, debating even getting up.

Midwest & NE guys know the static we get when the temps dip <30* continuously for days/weeks - I know my luck & nipping leads is just a bet hedged.

LOL, are you serious @LINUS
You have better changes off hitting the lottery for the next consecutive 40 years in a row.
With that logic, you should never drive a car, walk on the sidewalk, or get inside any building without seeing the architectural blue prints of the building since you are bound to one day get hit by a car, or in the event of an earthquake have the building collapse onto you.

Air bag connection harnesses are usually tucked up on a bracket way under the seat. Chances of you getting the proper voltage to not one, but both, at the same exact time, I will take that chance over any careless stupid sh*t people do all day long. This includes people outside of CA:flipoff2:

seats.webp
 
X2 on just leaving the airbag plug alone. If its not plugged in, it's not going off...a static charge is not going to set it off, it's not a blasting cap.
 
Laugh all you like, I've got a history with stuff. "You could break a steel ball in a padded room" is a saying I heard as a kid.

I understand firearms & don't point them at myself, loaded or not - I don't know static, so I'll listen to the most cautious guy in the room. "You work your side of the street, I'll work mine" - was Steve's phrase. It fits.

The CA thing was just about a climate I frankly envy, but Feinstein & Pelosi would deny me 'CA immigration' - not a thing against Cali folks.

In a dark room the dog walking by the couch can knock out 6-8 static arcs on average in low humidity, and he rides in the 80. All accidents start from a few small details.

Laugh all you like fellas, laugh all you like - :meh:
 
If it makes you feel safer you could fill the connector with silicone or potting epoxy instead of cutting the connector off and capping each conducter. Mine are just left disconnected on the Subaru seats I have with nothing else done with no issues but understandably what might be acceptable to me isn't for the next guy.
 
Well being in ca you would think we like Feinstien or Pelosi, I can assure that's a northern cal that votes those two in. So cal just generates the cash that the northern parts spent on their left wing agenda. while taxing the s*** out of us.Remember the movie star Hollywood types came from somewhere else. As for the airbags I do not know anything about how they were wired.Would be a nice improvement. Good luck and let us know how it works out
 
From the 96 LX FSM, but most airbag connectors are similar

Airbagconnector.webp



Effectively eliminates risk of static electricity setting it off.. AS LONG AS THE CONNECTOR IS DISCONNECTED. if you just cut the wires you have disabled this feature.

To make 100% sure you should open up the seat and remove the propellant canister from each airbag. I did this for my LX steering wheel. Setting it off in the back yard afterward was the bonus.
 
I saw a set of grey Caddy CTSV seats for cheap, but I was clueless on the curtain bag, it had a tag sewn onto the outer seams w/ the ID for bags.
Otherwise it seemed they would fit with work.

I hope you sat in them first. I almost bought a CTS but passed because I could not sit for more than 5 minutes without bringing a sciatica pillow to sit on. "Church pew" comes to mind. Yes, I brought my old man pillow to the car dealership. :eek:
 
Sorry for causing this rabbit hole. My point was don't leave the ends of the wires exposed. Odds are probably better to win a lottery, but static can set them off, so to be safe, somehow cover the ends.

 
Sorry for causing this rabbit hole. My point was don't leave the ends of the wires exposed. Odds are probably better to win a lottery, but static can set them off, so to be safe, somehow cover the ends.


Do you seriously think that abmient static is even remotely comparable to a static generator like the tesla coil style generator he just used? Those generators produce enough static to send arcs several inches to several feet when spun at a high enough rpm. It's hardly plausible that you'll ever generate that kind of juice being in a cold dry environment in a wool jacket and socks. It's even less plausible that you're going to discharge that static charge charge directly into a plug end.
 
You said "plausible".

Sounds like mythbusters need to weigh in.
 
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