A horrid discovery

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A gallon of Fluid Film saves $1000s in Repairs.
I'm in Ohio and bought a Rusty GX470 from Brother of a Brother in Law.
In Hindsight, if I was not Handy it would have been a total Loss.
Had 5 Spots on Frame Fixed and Body was Moving on Frame. Took $1300 to Remedy that.
I love it now and have no Regrets, but it took me 2 Weeks to Replace the Rear Brake Lines after they Rotted off with New. Was only $150 but dropping the Tank was a Treat. Sometimes it is about the Journey and not the Destination.
Seriously look at your Brake lines so we do not have a Horrid Accident Post.
All the Details are in the Build Thread - Back in the Game - Added an 2005 GX470 - Toledo Ohio - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/back-in-the-game-added-an-2005-gx470-toledo-ohio.1308617/
 
Most contributors in this thread understand and likely live with the same types thoughts and feelings motivating you to keep and fix this 80. Most of us have ventured down this same path of fighting and living with rust longterm. There's a lot of comments along the lines of "step away from the rust" but I want to highlight what is not being verbalized as clearly which is that we all think you should have a project 80, develop your skills, enjoy the satisfaction of doing good work yourself and reaping the rewards of that work for years after. Most of us think, based on experience, that you should channel your energies down a different and primarily rust free path. I encourage you to spend time exploring your options before getting too committed to any of them as you are potentially deciding on how to spend many hours of work over years to come.

As mentioned you could be in a good situation to pull the body, clean up and treat the frame then install a new body. You could also be in a good position to pick up a rust free non-runner and then migrate your engine/etc. These paths are both going to take plenty of time and energy and can yield satisfying results while being less expensive in terms of both time/$$ and yielding more durable results. A body swap could open up the opportunity for a well done color change for instance which seems like more fun to me than more time/$$ than just trying to remedy rust. You need to figure out what motivates you and ultimately it may be rust repair. There are folks that repair far worse rust in cars (higher value, older, rarer vehicles typically) so it can surely be done it's just harder than other options available to you with questionable results unless done really well.

Driving and enjoying an 80 that you rescued never gets old in my experience but there are a lot of ways to realize that end goal. As much fun as the work is you'll eventually want to take a break and just enjoy your 80. Rust may never let you do that and can continue to make even small tasks hard and keeps the pressure on as the 80 may never stops dissolving in front of you. This dynamic can remove your desire to take on projects of any kind in the future so consider that risk.
Thanks for that reply and you're right. This is exactly the thought process that's been going through my head.

I have two distinct, but not wholly different objectives:
  1. Get what I have on the road as soon as possible because I need to drive it
  2. Figure out a long-term plan of action so I can keep driving it for many more years to come
This post was definitely a reaction to what I discovered and had very little logic involved. Now that I've had the better part of a week to digest the feedback, research the subject more, get some quotes and spend some time with my thoughts on the matter I think I've come up with the approach and the feedback here played a large part in it.

For now, it drives and runs fine and the rust won't cause the car to dissolve in to dust tomorrow. The key is getting it to pass GA's rebuild inspection. I've now spent HOURS researching this topic, reading and re-reading all the codes and subsections about what GA requires for this kind of thing and I've managed to convince myself that there's a greater than 50% chance what I have now will pass the inspection. I've even read through the requirements for other states, some of which spell this sort of situation out more clearly, and none of them with the exception of NH have any stipulations on body rust and then only in so far as it applies to sharp edges of the rusted panels not protruding as to cause injury.

Once I've gotten it legally on the road, I can relax a little bit, drive it and enjoy it while planning and saving up for a proper fix and, long term, I think most people here are correct on how I should, and will, approach it. Finding a donor with a good body when I don't have the pressure of time being applied, gut and pull the current body, properly treat and repair anything found on the frame and then rebuild. But from what I can tell that's a costly and/or time consuming process and I have neither time or money at the current moment. The state charges interest for every month I continue to own the vehicle without it registered and I spent what I had on getting the truck and getting it to it's current state so I need time to rebuild the toy fund.
 
Taking the time constraint off, and general pressure, will certainly improve the quality of whatever path you take. I'm all about getting and keeping projects driveable to the extent possible as well vs. getting stuck in a long-term non-operational situation. Sounds like rolling the dice on the inspection, hopefully you'll pass!, will move you back into the having fun side of things if it goes well and will clarify your options if it doesn't. I would have similarly looked into options to ensure I passed on the first try like you did and think you are doing a great job of learning, considering and making the most of what you've got.

If you can get to the point where you have plenty of time you can start hunting for bodies / non-runners and I'm guessing a deal will pop up eventually. I've personally come across a few 80s that would have been great candidates at the cost of scrap metal over the last decade in our region and if you start watching I could see you finding something like that in the next year or two. You can also try your hand at rust repair if you want, seems unlikely you'll make it worse...

Let us know what happens
 
Remember it could be fixed/patched in non OEM fashion. Like high n tight cut with flat surfaces and straight lines ala Kirk’s old high clearance bumper chop.

Or if you’re a glutton for punishment I may be able to cut that section out for you though I tend to agree there may be more that’s not seen yet warranting a body swap.
 
Also...the drive train and chassis don't have to be under an 80 body forever....older land cruiser bodies can benefit from the improvements the 80 series brought and you still have a cool rig
 
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Most contributors in this thread understand and likely live with the same types thoughts and feelings motivating you to keep and fix this 80. Most of us have ventured down this same path of fighting and living with rust longterm. There's a lot of comments along the lines of "step away from the rust" but I want to highlight what is not being verbalized as clearly which is that we all think you should have a project 80, develop your skills, enjoy the satisfaction of doing good work yourself and reaping the rewards of that work for years after. Most of us think, based on experience, that you should channel your energies down a different and primarily rust free path. I encourage you to spend time exploring your options before getting too committed to any of them as you are potentially deciding on how to spend many hours of work over years to come.

As mentioned you could be in a good situation to pull the body, clean up and treat the frame then install a new body. You could also be in a good position to pick up a rust free non-runner and then migrate your engine/etc. These paths are both going to take plenty of time and energy and can yield satisfying results while being less expensive in terms of both time/$$ and yielding more durable results. A body swap could open up the opportunity for a well done color change for instance which seems like more fun to me than more time/$$ than just trying to remedy rust. You need to figure out what motivates you and ultimately it may be rust repair. There are folks that repair far worse rust in cars (higher value, older, rarer vehicles typically) so it can surely be done it's just harder than other options available to you with questionable results unless done really well.

Driving and enjoying an 80 that you rescued never gets old in my experience but there are a lot of ways to realize that end goal. As much fun as the work is you'll eventually want to take a break and just enjoy your 80. Rust may never let you do that and can continue to make even small tasks hard and keeps the pressure on as the 80 may never stops dissolving in front of you. This dynamic can remove your desire to take on projects of any kind in the future so consider that risk.

Very well said!

This outlines why I wouldn't mess with a rusty vehicle again.
Fixing rust sucks a huge amount of time.

Time you could put into maintaining and improving the things that actually make an 80 reliable and enjoyable to drive, and then enjoy driving it, which is why we own these things in the first place
 
GTFO. That truck is going to kill your soul.

Everything about that truck looks evil. Sell it, part it out, scrap it.

Get into something with no rust and your relationship with Land Cruisers will be imminently better.
^^^ this. Sometimes you are ahead in all things when you cut your losses.
 
Went and had the inspection done today. It failed with flying colors.

The failure was, unsurprisingly, due to the rust. It has compromised both rear quarters to the point the inspector considers it structurally unsound without complete replacement. In addition, the rockers are completely toast, both inner and outer. Both need to be replaced.

After extensive consideration and consultation with a locally recommended shop, rebuilding this truck is not going to be practical, even if I wanted to spend the money.

The option I’m considering at this point is to make two in to one. The inspector said he was actually sad that he couldn’t pass me because other than the identified items, the truck passed with flying colors in every other category. The frame and engine are in perfectly sound condition and he saw now reason they couldn’t be used in a rebuild if I went that route.

I think the most practical way forward is to find a non-runner with a clean title and swap over all the good from this one and then have it for a donor to keep the new one running going forward.

I’ve already had one user message me with a lead on a donor. If you know of any others or anyone who needs a nearly road legal truck with all good mechanical parts let me know, I’m either in the market for a donor or this truck is on the market for someone who can make use of it.
 
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I'm sure this is disappointing but you will be way ahead in the long run going in this new direction. I hope a clean body, or good option, shows up nearby for a great price.
 
An fj28 body would be a nice looking rig
 
I didn't read the entire thread but are we seriously talking about swapping body/frame/whatever? Call this a loss and start over. Where did this poor 80 live? Good grief this is horrible, and not fixable, no matter how much you want to throw at it.

I can understand the male ego and the need to prove the world wrong, but all that energy can be directed in a totally different direction, regardless how much your wife is in favor of this f'ed up 80 project. :) . Nothing personal, just not trying to blow sunshine up your hoohah.
 
Friend don’t let friends do rust period !!
 
If you need an 80 roller holla!
 
Well, I had the inspection and failed. Turns out the rust is even worse than I thought. Both inner rockers have portions rusted through near the wheel wells and both quarter panels have what the inspector considers "structurally compromising rust".

I found a "good ol' boy" body shop who was interested in the project but he told me that, at a minimum, it was going to cost around $10k-$12k and 6 months for him to do the minimum work needed to fix the issues identified. Basically, that's a non-starter. He did, however, say that the majority of the cost was because of how he, being a licensed and insured body shop, had to do the work for his own liability. He said if it was his personal truck he would try to fix it. He gave me some information on recommended welders and resources I can use to learn the basics of welding that would apply to repairing the damage he was seeing.

So, at this point I'm basically sitting on a parts truck that I can use for welding practice which might end up producing a truck that would pass inspection in the end.

So the goal has changed; I need to offload this truck. The issue I am coming up against right now is how to do that. The truck's out of state title is signed over to me but I have no way to register the truck to put the title in my name. As best I can tell, this means I have no way to sell the truck with the title. After extensive discussion with the Georgia Department of Revenue and my local tax office, the only route to getting a title of any kind would be a bonded title which seems like a bad way to go about it.

If anyone's interested in this truck for parts, let's chat. It has a good motor, transmission, interior, wheels, suspension, diffs and all that. It's just the rust in these spots preventing it from going on the road.
 
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The are states you can register it without even going there 😉 do your research people do it all the time.
 
Hint......

Screenshot_20260619_115303_Chrome.webp
 
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