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What emissions requirements need to be met? What are the standards in your State? Is it just a sniffer test or do all the ecm factory monitors need to pass?
96 LC Stoker Kit and Turbo ECU/Tuning Advice
- Thread starter fzj80crew
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This sounds like an overlanding truck that you are going to use in street races across the country.
Maybe should've started with a 100 series or an ls swap
Maybe should've started with a 100 series or an ls swap
Nothing wrong with the 80 as an overlander and nothing wrong with a turbo for an overlander. Diesels have been using turbos for years 
.
Really the only major problem with this setup is making it emissions compliant and the turbo size.
I think they will be very happy with the stroker, increased displacement, better flowing heads and gears.
I know they would love a turbo as well and perhaps they can do it in stages. Get the manifold and turbo now and run it at very low boost pressure and on the stock ECU while they figure out the rest of their plans and they can decide to turn it up later.
I don’t want to discourage anyone from stepping outside of the box of ih8mud. We often wear blinders here.
. Really the only major problem with this setup is making it emissions compliant and the turbo size.
I think they will be very happy with the stroker, increased displacement, better flowing heads and gears.
I know they would love a turbo as well and perhaps they can do it in stages. Get the manifold and turbo now and run it at very low boost pressure and on the stock ECU while they figure out the rest of their plans and they can decide to turn it up later.
I don’t want to discourage anyone from stepping outside of the box of ih8mud. We often wear blinders here.
Well, if you boost it, sometimes intercoolers are bulky, heavy and get heat soaked. They help get iat’s down but they can climb and cause detonation.
Let me introduce you to progressive meth injection: it can be strait water(not suggested) to windshield washer fluid(with methanol) or and mix of meth/water or even strait meth! It allows you full adjustability even day to day with the turn of a dial if you have your nozzel set already. They are very upgradable for bigger builds or changing builds, as they are stand alone. You can even super cool the intake before you romp on it.
Bonus to cooling the intake charge when in boost(you set the threshold for spraying at “x” amount of boost, ramp it in to “xx” pounds of boost where you are at full duty cycle(usually a pound or two from max boost) is its an octane booster. If you want to run mexican piss water 85 octane or 87 arco garbage, the more meth you mix to you water the more it will raise the octane. Kinda nice cause you can adjust seasonally or when its just plain hot or cold out. Most guys run 30% meth to water but up to 50/50 typically. Every setup is different. Run 87, but run a little more meth.
Sounds great, and tgey are only about 500 bucks. But you gott have a refill(distance varies to how much you use it. On low boost or near no boost you wont use any, if romping on it all the time you can go dry quickly, also depends on size of your tank. Most systems are 1 quart up to a gallon. A gallon should last 3,000+ miles on something like this with 30/70 meth/water.)
The bad: if the sytem fails it can hydroloc your motor, if youre running the ragged edge of the tune and depending on the meth for your tune to stay safe and you run out or pump failure, you can detonate or blow your motor. In a overland vehicle this would be very not likely to happen.
Just food for thought.
Let me introduce you to progressive meth injection: it can be strait water(not suggested) to windshield washer fluid(with methanol) or and mix of meth/water or even strait meth! It allows you full adjustability even day to day with the turn of a dial if you have your nozzel set already. They are very upgradable for bigger builds or changing builds, as they are stand alone. You can even super cool the intake before you romp on it.
Bonus to cooling the intake charge when in boost(you set the threshold for spraying at “x” amount of boost, ramp it in to “xx” pounds of boost where you are at full duty cycle(usually a pound or two from max boost) is its an octane booster. If you want to run mexican piss water 85 octane or 87 arco garbage, the more meth you mix to you water the more it will raise the octane. Kinda nice cause you can adjust seasonally or when its just plain hot or cold out. Most guys run 30% meth to water but up to 50/50 typically. Every setup is different. Run 87, but run a little more meth.
Sounds great, and tgey are only about 500 bucks. But you gott have a refill(distance varies to how much you use it. On low boost or near no boost you wont use any, if romping on it all the time you can go dry quickly, also depends on size of your tank. Most systems are 1 quart up to a gallon. A gallon should last 3,000+ miles on something like this with 30/70 meth/water.)
The bad: if the sytem fails it can hydroloc your motor, if youre running the ragged edge of the tune and depending on the meth for your tune to stay safe and you run out or pump failure, you can detonate or blow your motor. In a overland vehicle this would be very not likely to happen.
Just food for thought.
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We have reached out to John Reed Racing and are waiting to hear back. Emailing Jay Meagher at Real Street Performance and HALTECH when I get off work tomorrow.
White Stripe: We have both types of emission testing-one you can register on line and drive by and the other type if you go to a service station.
Well, I was not planning on making any money street racing while I was overlanding but I suppose if I get into a pinch with this set up....
No,really, i did not do a swap because i wanted to stay as pure Toyota as I could. I wanted to build something that would not be a dog loaded out and pulling trailer up the Cascades or Rockies. Plus, I thought it had to have been done before by somebody. Now I am curious to see if it can be done or if I have to just go with the stroker for a while like scottryana is suggesting.
Again, many thanks for everyone's time and thoughtful input and the meth stuff is kind of scary.
White Stripe: We have both types of emission testing-one you can register on line and drive by and the other type if you go to a service station.
Well, I was not planning on making any money street racing while I was overlanding but I suppose if I get into a pinch with this set up....
No,really, i did not do a swap because i wanted to stay as pure Toyota as I could. I wanted to build something that would not be a dog loaded out and pulling trailer up the Cascades or Rockies. Plus, I thought it had to have been done before by somebody. Now I am curious to see if it can be done or if I have to just go with the stroker for a while like scottryana is suggesting.
Again, many thanks for everyone's time and thoughtful input and the meth stuff is kind of scary.
Well the turbo has been done, the standalone has been done, they just haven't been done together to meet OBDII emissions.
Remember when I first started the Rear Turbo Thread, I definitely got some discouraging remarks, LOL. But I have grown to love the IH8MUD community, and you too Ryan.
Oh I still wouldn't encourage a rear mount turbo. 
Remember when I first started the Rear Turbo Thread, I definitely got some discouraging remarks, LOL. But I have grown to love the IH8MUD community, and you too Ryan.
I dont see why it would be any different with emissions. If stand alone has been done, adding a snail to the mix really doesnt change much, just all in the tune. It might even run cleaner if done right.
Because you can't plug an OBDII reader into the stock location and have it read the stock computer and have it not show any codes. You are running a standalone in parallel with the stock ECU you are intercepting signals and then sending outputs to the injectors, etc. For example if you are running a MAP tune you don't have a MAF in the system, if you do it is over voltage and CEL, if you don't CEL. If you somehow put it in a section of pipe where the ECU sees the right range of voltage for that 5v sensor, the stock computer still can not send output to the injectors as they are being controlled by the standalone so CEL.
Like I said it could be done. No one has spent the money to pay a good tuner to figure out all the nuances of having the standalone send the ECU the signals it wants to keep it from sending CELS.
Like I said it could be done. No one has spent the money to pay a good tuner to figure out all the nuances of having the standalone send the ECU the signals it wants to keep it from sending CELS.
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So sounds like all you have is the sniffer test either as you drive by it on the road or get the sniffer at the station. If that's the case then a stand alone should be fine. If u need obd2 functions to work because they do more than a sniffer then perhaps give Unichip a call and see if they can build you a ecm to work with your setup. You could also register it in a different County or state.
Nope Virginia has an OBDII test. Unichip had a chip for the 80 and it was worse than running without it.
http://www.deq.virginia.gov/Program...leOwners/OnBoardDiagnosticSystemFAQ.aspx#o2ei
http://www.deq.virginia.gov/Program...leOwners/OnBoardDiagnosticSystemFAQ.aspx#o2ei
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The 2uz TRD supercharger crowd if I recall has good reviews of Unichip.
10-15 years of ECU technology difference separate the 2. People use them on modern cars as well. The ECU in an 80 is not the same. There are no wideband O2's, no MAP sensors, etc. It is technology from 25 years ago.
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True, but they may be able to build him a piggyback with all of those functions. Not saying I know for sure, but he could inquire. Current piggybacks may work too. I had success with split second on mild boost applications although it's pretty basic it worked. Map3 may also be a route worth looking into.
I wouldn't waste my time or money on a piggyback. again. It has never been used successfully on a USDM 1FZFE turbo. Lilevo, who owns a 150mph 1/4 mile evo couldn't get it to work. I tried two different tuners they couldn't get it to work. EMS couldn't get it to work. Jamiesurq in NC has had 2 shops try for 6+ months with AEM and MAPECU and they couldn't get it to work. Again you are trying to piggyback an ECU that was probably engineered back in the early 1990's almost 30 years ago. Technology has come a long way since then. You'll want a wideband, you'll want a MAP sensor, you'll want more defined control over the injector pulse width, you'll have to have hot and cold start tables, you'll want knock protection and maybe even map switching for different fuels, etc. You only get that with a standalone.
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I agree technology has come a long way. Not sure why a piggyback won't work on a 1fz, my 4runner has the same Era fuel injection and it worked fine piggybacked on 12 lbs of boost until the map sensor locked up. It just forced the ECU into open loop at a commanded boost and then took over. I had to call the company to figure out how to engage the right settings. Otherwise it would try to make changes in closed loop which didn't work for obvious reasons. I forgot he changed displacement of the motor, so that throws another wrench into the loop. I'm just trying to give the guy a couple directions to look into. I personally have no desire to own another 1fz and never got far enough with my last one to go forced induction.