No doubt Napa is too expensive, if you plan ahead- $7 for the SKF is better from amazon than 14.50 napa.
Serpentine Belt and Gear (1 Viewer)
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No doubt Napa is too expensive, if you plan ahead- $7 for the SKF is better from amazon than 14.50 napa.
Checking in on pulley size confirmation. I have a 1999 LX470 with the 2UZ-FE and I wanted to replace the tensioner pulley (just the pulley) as preventative maintenance. What is the correct OEM size? 102MM?
I replaced my belt, idler, and tensioner pulleys last month with Gates. So far so good. Never had any issues with them in the past on previous vehicles.
Would uneven belt wear be an indicator of bearings going? Baselining the 98 LX and doing PM and noticed this.... I have to admit its the first time I have seen such a distinct wear pattern without noticing something rubbing or tearing. I have also noticed a slight whistle at start up. Obviously I will be replacing anyway but wanted to throw this out and see if anyone else has had the same issue.
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What year? is it still original? if so, the double-row bearing is going in a very neat way. I would look to replace the pulley and deal with the bearing search fun later. I haven't done this on a cruiser, but Gates served me well on other vehicles. OTOH, I was never able to verify that any aftermarket ball bearing has 2 ball rows as the original does.
Update on the Gates 36119 tensioner pulley, in particular it's bearing 6203-88-21E China GBC 64. Was tracking down some cold engine serpentine belt noise and noticed the Gates tensioner pulley I fitted 13 months/6k miles ago was on the way out. Oil was bleeding from its grease (tell tale oily stripes on the pulley face radiating out from the bearing) and on removal it definitely had a “catch” when spun and its grease was clearly breaking down and bleeding past the seals. Replaced it with a SKF 6203 2RSJEM from Graingers, it’s suppose to have grease rated Medium temp - 212F so I’ll see how it holds up. I suspect the bearing fitted in the Gates pulley may not have been appropriately heat rated, or maybe just a one off relatively early life failure.
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Nice up date @PADDO
I can say the NAPA 6203-2RSJ I used in The Kings tensioner 8 yrs/80K miles was still doing fine last I heard.
I've not had any reports on the Advance Auto's National 203-FF bearing used in tensioner pulley as of yet.
The Hayden 5021 idler pulley was reported by one mud members as failing in 5K miles. I'm waiting to hear now on another Hayden from Rock Auto which may have failed within 3K miles.
I can say the NAPA 6203-2RSJ I used in The Kings tensioner 8 yrs/80K miles was still doing fine last I heard.
I've not had any reports on the Advance Auto's National 203-FF bearing used in tensioner pulley as of yet.
The Hayden 5021 idler pulley was reported by one mud members as failing in 5K miles. I'm waiting to hear now on another Hayden from Rock Auto which may have failed within 3K miles.
^^^ I think it was me reported that Hayden failed. Yes it did. I replaced it with an OEM idler bearing. At the time of the removal, the Hayden had approximately 7000 miles and that thing was shaking side to side really bad.
I also tried to remove and replace the bearing in the tensioner pulley with a 20 ton press and it simply bended the pulley. How do you manage to remove the bearing without bending it? I have few extra 6203 NSK bearings and don't want to ruin another pulley.
I also tried to remove and replace the bearing in the tensioner pulley with a 20 ton press and it simply bended the pulley. How do you manage to remove the bearing without bending it? I have few extra 6203 NSK bearings and don't want to ruin another pulley.
I just replaced the bearing in mine over the weekend. I had to go to the local auto parts store since it was a Sunday and get what they had. The Dayco 4" pulley is what I got but the bearing is pressed all the way in so when you tighten it down the pulley no longer spins. I pressed out the old bearing in the factory pulley, pressed out the bearing in the Dayco and pressed it in the factory pulley that has a shoulder on it to hold the bearing back.
I had no trouble popping the OEM bearing out [out of my old takeoff OE pulley] with a couple of appropriately sized sockets and bench vice. Not sure what’s going on with yours?
I'm betting he was pressing from the wrong side as the bearing only comes out one way in the factory pulley
Nachi 6203-2RS $6.75 on Amazon
Thanks for the info in this thread. Add the bearing above to the list of those that work in the serpentine tensioner. I just did that, a Conti 4060882 belt and a new Toyota 16604-50032 idler.
Thanks for the info in this thread. Add the bearing above to the list of those that work in the serpentine tensioner. I just did that, a Conti 4060882 belt and a new Toyota 16604-50032 idler.
Don't know. The one above is identical to what came out except for the color of the dust seal (its red). I've had good luck with Nachi bearings in the past - rebuilt a pool pump that is going on twice as long with Nachis as it did new. Can't beat it for $7.
The bearing on 2004 LC is 6203LU NTN. I assume this one from amazon would work.
Amazon product ASIN B000UVKERIActually this would probably be better
Timken 6203-2RSC3 6203-2RS Deep Groove Ball Bearing 17x40x12mm https://a.co/d/9U8qdzx
Amazon product ASIN B000UVKERIActually this would probably be better
Timken 6203-2RSC3 6203-2RS Deep Groove Ball Bearing 17x40x12mm https://a.co/d/9U8qdzx
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