Registry 8x Series V8 Swaps

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I'm curious what your temperature reading of the transmission is after it's warm up. Even after I relocated the tempt sensor to the pan from the pressure port.
I'm getting 207 F. However, seem cooler at iddle, drops down to 180 F. My setup Trans hot line > radiator > 8 pass loop cooler 1 >Derale cooler and fan.
Wonder if b/c I ran aft through the radiator first causing it to be hotter. Also, some guys don't ran it through the radiator, fearing if there is a leak in the radiator, it may cause damage to the trans and engine. I used the ultra gauge, doesn't seem to work even after they gave me the programed codes. Reads 120 F, seems low. Thoughts?

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wiynwiyn said:
I'm curious what your temperature reading of the transmission is after it's warm up. Even after I relocated the tempt sensor to the pan from the pressure port.
I'm getting 207 F. However, seem cooler at iddle, drops down to 180 F. My setup Trans hot line > radiator > 8 pass loop cooler 1 >Derale cooler and fan.
Wonder if b/c I ran aft through the radiator first causing it to be hotter. Also, some guys don't ran it through the radiator, fearing if there is a leak in the radiator, it may cause damage to the trans and engine. I used the ultra gauge, doesn't seem to work even after they gave me the programed codes. Reads 120 F, seems low. Thoughts?
Click to expand...

I am using the factory sensor on a 4l60e and it runs 175f at highway speeds in the summer. I have it running through the radiator to an aftermarket cooler that's about the same volume as OEM. I consider it to overcool in the winter barely getting to 130f. The truck is 6500lbs curb on 37s.

Might be worth using a heat gun to confirm those temps.
 
NCtoyota said:
I am using the factory sensor on a 4l60e and it runs 175f at highway speeds in the summer. I have it running through the radiator to an aftermarket cooler that's about the same volume as OEM. I consider it to overcool in the winter barely getting to 130f. The truck is 6500lbs curb on 37s.

Might be worth using a heat gun to confirm those temps.
Click to expand...
Thanks. 175 F is ideal tempt. I belive my 2005 4l60e tempt sensor is located inside the pan. How did you hook into it? Could be that the tempt sensor and gauge I used is defective. I'm going to run another tempt sensor to the out (hot line to the radiator) to test. "Placing an inline sensor block on the "hot" line (the line carrying fluid from the transmission out to the cooler) shows you the absolute highest temperature the transmission reaches right out of the torque converter." I was reading there that ou can read the transmission fluid temperature on a 4L60E through the OBD2 port using an OBD2 Bluetooth adapter (like a BAFx OBD2 Scanner) paired with a smartphone app like Torque Pro or OBD Fusion. Have anyone used this before. **Contacted Derale tech support. They said to test delta (tempt in and out of the derale cooler). Will try this. Really like to resolve this heating issue before I take my LC to the mountain.
 
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wiynwiyn said:
Thanks. 175 F is ideal tempt. I belive my 2005 4l60e tempt sensor is located inside the pan. How did you hook into it? Could be that the tempt sensor and gauge I used is defective. I'm going to run another tempt sensor to the out (hot line to the radiator) to test. "Placing an inline sensor block on the "hot" line (the line carrying fluid from the transmission out to the cooler) shows you the absolute highest temperature the transmission reaches right out of the torque converter." I was reading there that ou can read the transmission fluid temperature on a 4L60E through the OBD2 port using an OBD2 Bluetooth adapter (like a BAFx OBD2 Scanner) paired with a smartphone app like Torque Pro or OBD Fusion. Have anyone used this before. **Contacted Derale tech support. They said to test delta (tempt in and out of the derale cooler). Will try this. Really like to resolve this heating issue before I take my LC to the mountain.
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I am using a Holley x max so it's plug and play for the OEM sensor. I'm not sure what you're using for an ECM/harness but the stock GM obd should read xmsn temps. Derale is right on though. No matter what the magic of can bus tells us it goes to the in and out temps.
 
Fancy Holley. Too rich for my blood. :). I'm going to run a new tempt sensor to the hot line before the radiator and skip the radiator completely. I'll install a trans fluid thermal bypass later. Will see if the tempt drop. 207 F is unacceptable. Will report back.

Maximum Heat Drop: An internal radiator tank sits in engine coolant that runs at about 195°F–210°F. If your transmission fluid passes through that tank, the radiator will actually transfer engine heat into the transmission fluid. Bypassing it can lower your transmission temperatures by 20°F to 40°F, keeping the fluid well within its safe operating zone.

No "Pink Milkshake" Danger: Over time, the internal cooling walls inside a radiator can corrode and crack. When this happens, engine antifreeze mixes with automatic transmission fluid (ATF), creating a pink slurry that instantly destroys the transmission clutches. Bypassing the radiator completely eliminates this catastrophic risk.

Less Stress on Engine Cooling: Taking the extremely hot transmission fluid out of the radiator reduces the thermal load on your engine's cooling system, helping your engine run slightly cooler under heavy strain.
 
wiynwiyn said:
Fancy Holley. Too rich for my blood. :). I'm going to run a new tempt sensor to the hot line before the radiator and skip the radiator completely. I'll install a trans fluid thermal bypass later. Will see if the tempt drop. 207 F is unacceptable. Will report back.

Maximum Heat Drop: An internal radiator tank sits in engine coolant that runs at about 195°F–210°F. If your transmission fluid passes through that tank, the radiator will actually transfer engine heat into the transmission fluid. Bypassing it can lower your transmission temperatures by 20°F to 40°F, keeping the fluid well within its safe operating zone.

No "Pink Milkshake" Danger: Over time, the internal cooling walls inside a radiator can corrode and crack. When this happens, engine antifreeze mixes with automatic transmission fluid (ATF), creating a pink slurry that instantly destroys the transmission clutches. Bypassing the radiator completely eliminates this catastrophic risk.

Less Stress on Engine Cooling: Taking the extremely hot transmission fluid out of the radiator reduces the thermal load on your engine's cooling system, helping your engine run slightly cooler under heavy strain.
Click to expand...

I personally try not to reengineer what an auto manufacturer already engineered.

Running the transmission cooler lines through the radiator not only cools the fluid, but heats it as well during initial warm-up getting it to operating temp faster

My 6L90e, using the stock internal radiator cooler, and the stock air cooler, runs about 130°F.

Make sure your cooler lines aren't reversed, and your torque convertor is able to lockup when appropriate. There are plenty of other issues that will cause an 4l80e to run hot.

Are you running a stock torque converter or an aftermarket/refurbished one?
 
wiynwiyn said:
Thanks. 175 F is ideal tempt. I belive my 2005 4l60e tempt sensor is located inside the pan. How did you hook into it? Could be that the tempt sensor and gauge I used is defective. I'm going to run another tempt sensor to the out (hot line to the radiator) to test. "Placing an inline sensor block on the "hot" line (the line carrying fluid from the transmission out to the cooler) shows you the absolute highest temperature the transmission reaches right out of the torque converter." I was reading there that ou can read the transmission fluid temperature on a 4L60E through the OBD2 port using an OBD2 Bluetooth adapter (like a BAFx OBD2 Scanner) paired with a smartphone app like Torque Pro or OBD Fusion. Have anyone used this before. **Contacted Derale tech support. They said to test delta (tempt in and out of the derale cooler). Will try this. Really like to resolve this heating issue before I take my LC to the mountain.
Click to expand...

I think you may be overthinking it man.

You showed an Ultragauge hooked up a few pages back and factory ECM said it was seeing 130s… you said you thought it was off. Why? Unless you were working the trans hard doing a long climb or pulling something, that sounds about right for your setup having a good cooler in the loop.

I have a AWD Chevy Express van. 5.3/4l60. The factory trans lasted to 321k miles and it does NOT have an external trans cooler on it. The fluid loops through the radiator and right back to the trans. I’ve monitored it with an Ultragauge and HPTuners on laptop and it will hit 210 in the summer running up hills at 80mph. I don’t think I would trust your aftermarket gauge setup if it says 207 just driving your truck around.

In my 80, I have it like factory.. Looped through the radiator, then a nice (not huge) external cooler. Temps will sometimes bump 200° when I’m towing my boat in Florida summer at 70mph w/ AC on, or pulling a huge Colorado pass at highway speeds in the summer. That’s perfectly fine.
I have a high quality gauge and sensor in the pan that I read from. Under normal conditions it runs 140-170°.
 
NeverFinis said:
I personally try not to reengineer what an auto manufacturer already engineered.

Running the transmission cooler lines through the radiator not only cools the fluid, but heats it as well during initial warm-up getting it to operating temp faster

My 6L90e, using the stock internal radiator cooler, and the stock air cooler, runs about 130°F.

Make sure your cooler lines aren't reversed, and your torque convertor is able to lockup when appropriate. There are plenty of other issues that will cause an 4l80e to run hot.

Are you running a stock torque converter or an aftermarket/refurbished one?
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Thanks. I'm using a stock torque converter. A while back, I removed the last hose that runs back to the trans., placed in a bucket and see that atf flows out at a steady speed. Is questionable why the cooler fan won't turn on at 180 F. Makes me think it could be a bad tempt sensor or the mech gauge.
 
thatcabledude said:
I think you may be overthinking it man.

You showed an Ultragauge hooked up a few pages back and factory ECM said it was seeing 130s… you said you thought it was off. Why? Unless you were working the trans hard doing a long climb or pulling something, that sounds about right for your setup having a good cooler in the loop.

I have a AWD Chevy Express van. 5.3/4l60. The factory trans lasted to 321k miles and it does NOT have an external trans cooler on it. The fluid loops through the radiator and right back to the trans. I’ve monitored it with an Ultragauge and HPTuners on laptop and it will hit 210 in the summer running up hills at 80mph. I don’t think I would trust your aftermarket gauge setup if it says 207 just driving your truck around.

In my 80, I have it like factory.. Looped through the radiator, then a nice (not huge) external cooler. Temps will sometimes bump 200° when I’m towing my boat in Florida summer at 70mph w/ AC on, or pulling a huge Colorado pass at highway speeds in the summer. That’s perfectly fine.
I have a high quality gauge and sensor in the pan that I read from. Under normal conditions it runs 140-170°.
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Appreciate the feedback. I just want to make sure the tempt is reading accurately. Piece of mind. Won't want to get stuck in the mountain
if it overheats. I thought ideal tempt is 175-200 F. I think you made a great point. Maybe it's working properly and never reach to 180 for the fan to come on. Defective gauge perhaps. I reached out to ultraguage and they said 120 F seems low.

'yes, it does seem low. These codes were created for and by GM. Not by UltraGauge.
You can search forums specific to your vehicle to see if anyone has an alternate code for a 2005.
From my view, you have the correct code."
 
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tmxmotorsports said:
Do you have a hand held temp gun? If not get one and double check temps with that it will help diagnosing all kinds of things.
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Yes. I used a thermal gun. Area circled gave a more accurate reading than the center area. Done during engine on and gauge shows 207 F. Next step, may warm up the trans, drain the fluid and test with the thermal gun and see the discrepancy. I think I will just get a new gauge and sensor to see. I used a cheap amazon gauge and the glowshift tempt sensor.

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You are a true white stripe old gangsta. haha. @NeverFinis, I do understand the benefits of running the atf through the radiator. However,
if there is a leak in the radiator, would really suck. @White Stripe, you won't have to deal with this issue.
My 4L60E doesn't have a thermal bypass valve the newer ones do, like the 6L80 or 8L90. Some folks upgrade to an aftermarket bypass valve
since the factory valves restrict flow until the fluid hits about 190 F. Aftermarket bypass valves (like those from PPE or Shift Technologies) eliminate the restrictive thermostat, allowing the fluid to continuously circulate through the transmission cooler, keeping operating temperatures 20 F to 30 F cooler.
So if you skip the radiator, you can run a bypass valve like the one on the second picture for the 4L60E. Will test the sensor and gauge by placing the sensor in a bucket of hot water, then use a thermal gun to see the tempt and compare with the gauge reading. This debate is interesting.

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Exciting updates. Guess my prediction is correct. Glowshift tempt sensor isn’t compatible with the gauge I got. Prob the ohms on the tempt sensors are different. As you can see the discrepancy from the glowshift to the original sensor that comes with the gauge. Gauge showed 220 F whereas the water test showed 146 F, tested with the glowshift tempt sensor. Found out the hard way. Time for a test drive.
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At 30 mins drive, 65 degree. Looks like it’s working properly. Looks like the ultra gauge is able to read the 4L60E trans tempt. @thatcabledude thanks for the suggestion on the ultra gauge, so many features. I’ll keep the atf flow: trans > radiator > cooler 1 > derale cooler with the fan. Reason why I used the glowshift sensor b/c it fits in the pressure port.

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Going back to why my engine stalls and then able to start again after 30 mins. Found out the season. I connected the fuel pump relay 87 wire to to the G-R wire from the ID2 connector. I accidentally connected it where the fuel pump keeps on priming with key on. So that prob cause the fuel pump to overheat.. and melted the wire from the ID2 to the fuel pump. I installed the 80s Lc fuel pump back. Looks like it works just fine. LC fuel pump looks more robust, longer than the v8 4Runner. Now question is that is it better to run 12 gauge power wire from the relay to the fuel pump? 16 gauge may be too thin. I wired up it up like the diagram below. 85 to pcm Dark green wire. Now when key on the fuel pump primes a few seconds and turn off. 12 volts when key on and back to zero.

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What size battery is everyone running with their LS swap? Stock LC lead acid battery? Only inquiring about single battery set ups. I have no plans to go dual.

*update*

I did a little research before posting this. I ended up buying a size 24F from Interstate but an AGM. It has 710 CCA which meets the requirement for the 6.0 engine. I was at Costco and decided to pull
The trigger. It was 150 less than any other AGM I could find.
 
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FlyinFaded said:
What size battery is everyone running with their LS swap? Stock LC lead acid battery? Only inquiring about single battery set ups. I have no plans to go dual.

*update*

I did a little research before posting this. I ended up buying a size 24F from Interstate but an AGM. It has 710 CCA which meets the requirement for the 6.0 engine. I was at Costco and decided to pull
The trigger. It was 150 less than any other AGM I could find.
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Exact battery i run in my stock 80 and 80s ive swapped
 
Cleaning up the LC wiring harness. Did you guys do the 'ole cut and heat shrink removed wires at the firewall on the cowl harnesses? Or pull the dash and try to get everything out of the harness?
 
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