Registry 8x Series V8 Swaps

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Question for the group: working on a Gen V L86 swap into my 96 LX. I’m not getting fuel at the injectors, it’ll fire on starter fluid. Reading ~2000psi at the fuel rail, but no flow at the injectors. Currently using the factory fuel pump, swap harness fuel pump relay connected to the line running from the OEM FPR to the fuel pump. Pump is priming and running. Using corvette style regulator.

Anybody have ideas? I’m wondering if the PCM is looking for a low side pressure reading or the FPCM still?
 
TacoLand said:
Question for the group: working on a Gen V L86 swap into my 96 LX. I’m not getting fuel at the injectors, it’ll fire on starter fluid. Reading ~2000psi at the fuel rail, but no flow at the injectors. Currently using the factory fuel pump, swap harness fuel pump relay connected to the line running from the OEM FPR to the fuel pump. Pump is priming and running. Using corvette style regulator.

Anybody have ideas? I’m wondering if the PCM is looking for a low side pressure reading or the FPCM still?
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Have you check at the corvette filter that you hook the return to the fuel tank and to the engine correctly? Maybe try to scan for codes to see if you have a bad crank sensor or something else? Check fuel pressure after the corvette filter?
 
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wiynwiyn said:
Have you check at the corvette filter that you hook the return to the fuel tank and to the engine correctly? Maybe try to scan for codes to see if you have a bad crank sensor or something else?
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Yup, it's hooked up right. No codes showing right now. Logs from crank attempts and then firing with fluid are showing fuel pressure at the rail, but it isn't moving much. They're also showing no injector duty cycle or flow. It seems like the PCM isn't commanding injectors to fire, but I'm 100% not an expert...
 
Which wiring harness are you using and who did the vat delete? Did you use and aftermarket fuel relay? Check the grounds. Maybe you got the 87 from the relay to the battery and the 30 to the fuel pump wire. Wonder if it makes a difference. I was having no start back then, so I installed this cheap pressure gauge to see. I removed it later after I see that it has 58 psi. Problem was incorrect wiring. Remove the fuel out line (extend the line if it's not long enough), put it in a bucket or bottle and crank the engine, see if you have fuel coming out. Others that is way more knowledgeable than me can chime in. @NeverFinis @tmxmotorsports @thatcabledude

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wiynwiyn said:
Which wiring harness are you using and who did the vat delete? Did you use and aftermarket fuel relay? Check the grounds. Maybe you got the 87 from the relay to the battery and the 30 to the fuel pump wire. Wonder if it makes a difference. I was having no start back then, so I installed this cheap pressure gauge to see. I removed it later after I see that it has 58 psi. Problem was incorrect wiring. Remove the fuel out line (extend the line if it's not long enough), put it in a bucket or bottle and crank the engine, see if you have fuel coming out. Others that is way more knowledgeable than me can chime in. @NeverFinis @tmxmotorsports @thatcabledude

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Good thought. Problem solved, apparently I didn't actually have VATS turned off. Should have been the first thing I checked in the tune...
 
NeverFinis said:
haha...I asked that question in a DM as well.

@wiynwiyn change your fusible links...they can partially fail.
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I replaced the fusible link from the dealership last year. After I removed the fuel resistor, the power relay does not buzz anymore.
Think the problem is fixed for now. Knock on woods.
 
looking for a pair of motor mount brackets cut off of a 93-97 frame. somebody in here must have them.
 
For anybody who is using the 16g line from the OEM fuel pump relay to the pump to deliver power to the pump still, any issues with wire gauge? I have 12g coming off my GM relay and based on the draw and distance I’m wondering if just running a 12g wire to the pump is a better idea.
 
TacoLand said:
For anybody who is using the 16g line from the OEM fuel pump relay to the pump to deliver power to the pump still, any issues with wire gauge? I have 12g coming off my GM relay and based on the draw and distance I’m wondering if just running a 12g wire to the pump is a better idea.
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I tied into the factory wire in the kick panel area. Running a OEM Supra pump. It’s been fine ever since. 112k miles.
 
TacoLand said:
For anybody who is using the 16g line from the OEM fuel pump relay to the pump to deliver power to the pump still, any issues with wire gauge? I have 12g coming off my GM relay and based on the draw and distance I’m wondering if just running a 12g wire to the pump is a better idea.
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No issues with stock pump at 10k miles.
 
Depends where your relay is located. Three options below. I also connected 16 gauge wire to the ID2 connector, wire R-G. I believe the LC wire is 16 gauge. Asked psi technical support they said 12 gauge isn’t necessary, 16 is fine.

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TheBussman said:
looking for a pair of motor mount brackets cut off of a 93-97 frame. somebody in here must have them.
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I'll be cutting some off in the next week or two, not sure how cleanly they come off but I can try to do it with care.
 
cbus22 said:
I'll be cutting some off in the next week or two, not sure how cleanly they come off but I can try to do it with care.
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that would be great, looks like I'm close by I can stop over and pick them up when your ready, I'm not in a big rush.
 
PIP said:
You may need the steel covers for the mounts as well.

I also made a fixture to put 1fz frame stands in 91-92's as they don't self locate well.
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good point i need those for sure. i haven't attempted welding them in before I have 93 truck to compare measurements to, but is your fixture for rent?
 
TheBussman said:
good point i need those for sure. i haven't attempted welding them in before I have 93 truck to compare measurements to, but is your fixture for rent?
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I spose so? It's pretty big, not cheap to ship I'm sure.

I think you could do OK if you have a frame to compare to using a tape measure and an accurate angle finder to get them dialed in before welding. The fixture I made locates off the front crossmember and both frame rails so the mounts are assured to weld in right- But that makes it not super portable.
 
PIP said:
I spose so? It's pretty big, not cheap to ship I'm sure.

I think you could do OK if you have a frame to compare to using a tape measure and an accurate angle finder to get them dialed in before welding. The fixture I made locates off the front crossmember and both frame rails so the mounts are assured to weld in right- But that makes it not super portable.
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got it, if i don't feel confident putting them in position I'll let you know, thanks.
 
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