tmxmotorsports
SILVER Star
What are you using the efi relay for?
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This is the one that is in the driver side, wall. It kept on buzzing when the key is on. It gets warm after a drive. I suspect the engine stalled because something is causing it to overheat or an old/bad Power Relay. Sorry I got it mixed up with the EFI main relay in the engine. (part numbers the same).
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tmxmotorsports
SILVER Star
That shows it powers the door locks and windows dome light door locks how is does it have anything to do with the engine.
Thanks for pointing that out. Sounds like i need to fix that as well. Read the efi relay overheating post.
"There is a 12 gauge wire, yellow with a red tracer that goes from the EFI relay to EB1. EB1 is the first connector about 12 inches from the EFI relay, that one needs to be changed to 10 gauge. There is a 12 gauge wire, red with a yellow tracer that goes from the EFI fuse to the EFI relay, that needs to be changed to 10 gauge." @ frankTorres
"There is a 12 gauge wire, yellow with a red tracer that goes from the EFI relay to EB1. EB1 is the first connector about 12 inches from the EFI relay, that one needs to be changed to 10 gauge. There is a 12 gauge wire, red with a yellow tracer that goes from the EFI fuse to the EFI relay, that needs to be changed to 10 gauge." @ frankTorres
FJ80 EFI Main Relay Overheating Problem
tmxmotorsports
SILVER Star
What is the efi relay powering in your swap? And that thread was about a 91 fj80 not a ls swapped fxj80.
I believe I did not connect anything to the EFI fuel relay. The fuel pump connects to the EFI relay. Expected to get the new relay this sat and swap it out.
If that doesn't work I remove the LC fuel relay and run the 87 wire straight to the fuel pump.
Oh men, been frustrated however I believe I resolved the power relay buzzing and engine stalling problem. Way how I ran the fuel pump wiring before seen from the picture. I tapped the 87 wire into the fuel pump power wire. After I cut off the wire today, disconnecting from the lc relay, resistor.. no more buzzing problem from the power relay.. Hope this fixes the stalling issue as well.
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Did a little more digging on what could have caused the engine stalling.. I will remove the fuel pump resistor and run the R-B to the fuel relay because the
relay is located 1 foot away from the wire. Not trying to run new line all the way to the fuel pump. Cheers.
relay is located 1 foot away from the wire. Not trying to run new line all the way to the fuel pump. Cheers.
fuel pump resistor??
- Bypass the Resistor: Stock fuel pump resistors (often used in older imports or factory trucks) were designed to lower the voltage to the pump at idle to reduce noise and wear. LS-based fuel injection systems require full, constant battery voltage to maintain the correct 58 PSI of fuel pressure.
Damn. Mine is only getting 10. But I have a few low grade long hills I drive everyday.
Gentlemen. I have 1500 miles on my lq4, 4l80 swap and it’s running flawless. Tach is off but whatever.
I’m finally taking it out on its maiden offroad voyage tomorrow morning. Can’t wait. Tough trails. Dumb fire roads. Lots of beer and lots of laughs. Can’t wait. Truck should do great.
Changed it to manual hubs and part timed the front end. Should be fun getting used to that as well. Haha
I’m finally taking it out on its maiden offroad voyage tomorrow morning. Can’t wait. Tough trails. Dumb fire roads. Lots of beer and lots of laughs. Can’t wait. Truck should do great.
Changed it to manual hubs and part timed the front end. Should be fun getting used to that as well. Haha
30 miles offroad in cleghorn valley to lake arrowhead in California. 5+ hours on trail and 2 hours on road. Truck ran beautiful. Have a funny noise coming from driver side when it articulates. Not sure what it is. The noise changes with engine speed. Nothing broke. Water temps stayed put. AC worked amazing (thank you @cruisermatt ) truck crawls smoother than it did before. I took some damage along the driver side. But now it matches the passenger side. Trail got narrow and the truck decided it wanted to lean in to the dirt and rocks for a little rest lol. Had tons of fun. (Yes I was with a Jeep. But he’s Toyota guy at heart)
What is the sound of the noise exactly? Like a squealing, whining, hissing, or rattling noise? Looks like a fun offroad trip. We should set up a ls swap/overland thread. Good choice on the Delta's @FlyinFaded.
It’s a weird noise. It’s like a vibration noise but I can’t feel it in the truck I just hear it. The noise goes with engine speed. I’m almost wondering if something in the drivetrain is flexing and hitting something. I did see the my Carson joint hit the transmission oil pan. I’m gonna need to take a hammer and wood block to massage that a bit.
Check these items. Update us. Engine mounts, powersteering.. Good luck man.
- Wheel Bearing/Hub Assembly: Even before a bearing gets bad enough to feel the vibration through the floor, it frequently emits a rhythmic, humming, or "rumble strip" sound that changes pitch with vehicle speed.
- Tire Issues: Uneven tire wear, separated tread belts, or a thrown wheel weight can create a drone or humming noise at certain speeds.
- Sway Bar End Links or Bushings: Worn, cracked, or missing rubber bushings on the sway bar allow metal-to-metal contact, producing a persistent rattling or tapping noise as the suspension moves.
- Braking Components: A rock or piece of debris stuck between the brake rotor and the dust shield, or sticking caliper slide pins, can create a vibration or scraping sound
To update you guys. 1. Disconnected the resistor and wire 87 to R-B at the resistor. Power relay still buzz. 2. 87 power 16 gauge wire to pin 13 R-B, ID2 connector. Fixed the buzzing problem on the power relay. Car runs great now. I think there is a problem after the ID2 toward the engine bay.. Well, prob not worth the time to find the issue since it works the way how I wired it.
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Need a little guidance from anyone who has ordered a Marks 4wd adapter in the new trade war / tariff era...
I ordered the 4l60 to hf2a adapter months ago from Summit Racing at what would be a significant savings and while I waited I could work on cleaning up harnesses, etc. It was supposed to ship 5/15, early on I checked in with them to make sure it would actually ship and I wouldn't be left hanging. I received a generic / call center response that was something like "doesn't appear to be discontinued."
5/15 passed so I reached out to them, didn't get a response, but then my order updated to show "expected to ship 8/7." At this point I feel I should cancel that and source from either AA or Mark's direcly. I've read a few places here that ordering from Mark's is faster, and possibly cheaper than AA depending on import stuff.
So the questions are:
1. Has anyone ordered recently from Marks4wd, and were there tariffs/duties applied, is it 25% or something less? AUS historically is friendly 0% with certificate of origin but I'm getting conflicting information even on .gov websites.
2. Did they ship pretty quickly?
3. Did DHL hold it hostage with additional "processing fees," if so how much?
4. Other gotcha's I should know about?
Thanks!
I ordered the 4l60 to hf2a adapter months ago from Summit Racing at what would be a significant savings and while I waited I could work on cleaning up harnesses, etc. It was supposed to ship 5/15, early on I checked in with them to make sure it would actually ship and I wouldn't be left hanging. I received a generic / call center response that was something like "doesn't appear to be discontinued."
5/15 passed so I reached out to them, didn't get a response, but then my order updated to show "expected to ship 8/7." At this point I feel I should cancel that and source from either AA or Mark's direcly. I've read a few places here that ordering from Mark's is faster, and possibly cheaper than AA depending on import stuff.
So the questions are:
1. Has anyone ordered recently from Marks4wd, and were there tariffs/duties applied, is it 25% or something less? AUS historically is friendly 0% with certificate of origin but I'm getting conflicting information even on .gov websites.
2. Did they ship pretty quickly?
3. Did DHL hold it hostage with additional "processing fees," if so how much?
4. Other gotcha's I should know about?
Thanks!
@cbus22 . Ordered mine through Marks directly back in 2023. Not sure how much would cost now with tariff. I would email marks, they were very helpful. If I can go back in time i would go with torfab adapter, go with LT swap.
- Engine mount adapter brackets (mounts to the LT motor and allows Toyota 80 series engine mounts to bolt in factory frame location)
- Torfab Adapter for the GM Trans to HF2A/HF2AV transfer case
Thanks. Fortunately/unfortunately I picked up a Gen IV LC9/4L60E reman combo with <7k miles on each. So I'm doing this swap a decade later than most with that combo.
Good luck and have fun. I would use a rear main seal tool (there are more expensive ones, i used this one) to align the seal properly. The rear main seal leaked after a few hundred miles and I used the alignment tool the second time, no leak so far. Also, may want to upgrade to a aluminum oil galley plug.
