Ok. What brand would you recommend.I thought about doing the wiring myself from a factory harness but those reasons alone are why I spent the money on Speartech. It’s costly but damn it’s quality.
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Ok. What brand would you recommend.I thought about doing the wiring myself from a factory harness but those reasons alone are why I spent the money on Speartech. It’s costly but damn it’s quality.
Speartech. They are amazing. Speartech | LS Harness | LT Harness | LSX Swap Harness | LSX Powertrain Packages | LSX Engine Packages | LS1 | LS2 | LS3 | LS7 | LSA | LS9 | LT1 | LT4 | Vortec | 58X | 24X - https://www.speartech.com/Ok. What brand would you recommend.
What engine is that?
2UZ out of a 100 series and the matching A343F trans. I am keeping the H2FA T-case that was behind my 1FZFE.What engine is that?
Nice. I didn’t recognize that engine. Makes sense. I don’t know s*** about the Toyota V8’s or their engines in general other than the 1fz and 2jz lol. Chevy guy through and through for the most part haha2UZ out of a 100 series and the matching A343F trans. I am keeping the H2FA T-case that was behind my 1FZFE.
I have been a GM guy for a long long time as well, I had long planed a 5.3l and recenlty settled on 8hp70 behind it now that you can get off the shelf adapters (pricy though) but all this stuff was too good to pass up and mostly local so, yeah ended up going this route. Likey be in it turn key with a lot of other maintence stuff done for about the cost of adapters and getting the 8hp70 viable. Budget wins sometime.Nice. I didn’t recognize that engine. Makes sense. I don’t know s*** about the Toyota V8’s or their engines in general other than the 1fz and 2jz lol. Chevy guy through and through for the most part haha
I hear ya on budget winning. After going through my lq4 swap and spending what u have in it. I look back and see where I could and should have cut some corners. But all well. It’ll be nice once it’s finished in the next couple weeks or so.I have been a GM guy for a long long time as well, I had long planed a 5.3l and recenlty settled on 8hp70 behind it now that you can get off the shelf adapters (pricy though) but all this stuff was too good to pass up and mostly local so, yeah ended up going this route. Likey be in it turn key with a lot of other maintence stuff done for about the cost of adapters and getting the 8hp70 viable. Budget wins sometime.
Good question, I had to use the Dakota box to get mine working.Hey guys, i know this has been beaten to death. But I am a little confused. Im trying to get my tach to work without the dakota digital box... LQ4 - 4l80 swap, is it as simple as hooking up an HP tuners and doing it or do i have to pull the cluster and mess with the variable resistor like i have seen mentioned on here?
Just making the pulses work with a tuner? Or pulling the cluster like @NeverFinis proposed?Haven't used the DD box for tach
I don't think @NeverFinis was proposing anything he basically showed how to make the tach work without the DD box. Pretty dang simpleJust making the pulses work with a tuner? Or pulling the cluster like @NeverFinis proposed?
Got it. I guess I’m asking if you have to pull the dash and adjust the resistor or getting a step up and a tuner just works? That’s where I’m confused.I don't think @NeverFinis was proposing anything he basically showed how to make the tach work without the DD box. Pretty dang simple
Is that sitting on the factory mounts? Details please!
Hey guys, i know this has been beaten to death. But I am a little confused. Im trying to get my tach to work without the dakota digital box... LQ4 - 4l80 swap, is it as simple as hooking up an HP tuners and doing it or do i have to pull the cluster and mess with the variable resistor like i have seen mentioned on here?
Legend. Thank you brother. I knew I was getting confused reading all of the info. Appreciate all of you guys. It’s sooooo close to being done. Sending out to exhaust while I wait for a coupleThe DD tach box is not needed. Just one less thing to buy and wire up...
The following depends on your GM ECM and if it natively outputs a tach pulse signal.
GM ECMs that outputs a Tach Signal directly
One can use a pull up resistor to convert GM ECM 5V tach pulses into a 12V pulses
To do this, one would wire a resistor between 12V and the tach signal wire. This can be done anywhere on the tach signal wire, which originally went to the Toyota ECM. I would probably use a switched 12V source. So, it is easily available near the glovebox, and no need to pull the cluster.
Generally, start with a 5K resistor and work your way to smaller and smaller resistors until your tach responds to the GM Tach signal. @LT said he used a 1K resistor.
The other way is to bypass the resistor on the back of the tach. This removes the voltage divider in the tach that would normally convert Toyota's tach signal from 12V to 5V. This requires pulling the cluster, and the tach from the cluster.
Then, the final step to change the pulse frequency in the GM ECM with hp tuners, which @LT also mentioned.
GM ECMs that only output Tach Signal on canbus
I had to adjust the POT on the back of the tach to allow my canbus ECM (E78) to drive the tach. Adjusting this pot changes the pulse frequency expected from a 6 cylinder to an 8 cylinder. I used SwapTime Muscle Car Module, which outputs the tach signal as 12V. This means I didn't have to use a pull resistor as my tach signal was already 12V.
For this method, one does need to pull the cluster, and take the tach out of the cluster to adjust that pot. I mean, it isn't that hard to pull the cluster, but pulling and adjusting the pot on tach is a little more involved.