87 SR5 22re (1 Viewer)

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Update 3.0 -

Finally arrived home and been struggling in my garage with the 4runner ever since.

This is the situation so far. I order a new master control and passage door switch for the windows. It came wired wrong - and when i plugged it in my windows stopped working. Prior to the switch doctors switch everything was working just not well.

Now i have traced my issue and have come up with a few possible issues.

I have directly plugged in the motors and they work so motors are in good condition.

The circuit breakers can be switched from door lock to windows and the door locks continue to work so circuit breaker seems to be correct.

The second issue that i am trying to address is the Door control Relay in the passage side door. I am going to try and jump a wire from 5 - 12 and see if that solves the issue.


Please feel free to reach out if you have an advice or suggestions. Thanks

Ben
 
Update

From the help of KoffeeKommando

I have solved located and the issue of the problem. If anyone is interested. My windows were working fine until i plugged a switch that was wired wrong. It burned out the Door Control part #85980-89101 found in the passager side kick panel behind the main computer.

It's been high difficult to located but KoffeeKommando had the part. I will update one more time when the part is installed.

Here is the diagram I used to locate the issue

8009003294484931396.jpg
 
Yeah, I couldn’t find one and my windows were stuck down, so I completely bypassed the module and have my front windows direct wired to the battery and am planning on running a line to the rear window for battery off use;)

Definitely email switch doctor and let them know they damaged your truck.
 
Everything is basically done boys. A few days and a bunch of learning sessions but i got it done the road for 500miles on a camping trip. The dogs and wife loved it.

Got a couple questions about lights. My cab has basically no working lights. The doors work - and the map reading lights work but none of the overhead lights work. also, that small do nothing like works but doesn't do much. Any suggestions on replacing them? Looking to make my cab bright as hell so I can actually see what the hell i am doing!

I looked at rigid industries and found a few things but wanted to hear suggestions first - They make a new replacement headlights - anyone see it or use it?
 
For interior lights I'd go with some from Superbrightleds. Ran them in my 84 and it was night and day difference.
 
I'm confused. Are you saying the dome light at the top of the windshield isn't working?

Pull the thing off, check that you have constant and switched power at the light. Be aware that it gets the ground through the screws so it won't turn on when not mounted.

Yup, bulbs from SuperBrightLEDs.com

I also had another dome light from a mid-90's 4Runner in the back of my cab. And 4 lights under the shelf in the back. And a puddle light on each door. Dim interior lights suck but it's really easy to cure.
 
Just ordered a bunch of lights from SuperBright LEDs.com

Cluster - Dome and door lights.

The rigid industries makes a replacement headlight and I was wondering if anyone has given it a try or looked at it? would love a super bright street legal Led headlight for my rig. Just looking for ideas
 
Northwestern said:
The rigid industries makes a replacement headlight and I was wondering if anyone has given it a try or looked at it? would love a super bright street legal Led headlight for my rig. Just looking for ideas
Click to expand...

That's the Trucklite hedlamps, decent replacement. Also, look at the JW Speaker assemblies, also very nice. There is a recent thread here talking about LED upgrades, using a Hella eCode or DOT reflector and LED H4 bulbs.
 
Been looking through the threads about headlights. Mine are working well and aren't a problem more "interested" then anything.

I do have a questions since winter is upon us. I have the 87 SR5 with automatic Hubs - I have been searching the forum but haven't found any new post about hub swaps.

I haven't messed around with the hubs yet and haven't even engaged my automatic hubs yet but wanted to know people option and what it takes to go from Auto to Manual. Is it True that Aisin hubs sold new aren't "true" Aisin hubs? Or is that a rumor? Also, Are Warn hubs for a applications that will only engage 4x4 maybe 5-10 times a year in snow or light adventure a good choice?

Also, is there a write up about the vacuum lines? What would someone need to do to eliminate or swap over the system from auto to manual?

Thanks
 
Headlights: I recently installed IPF H11 LED bulbs in my 200-series. WOW what a huge difference. If I still had my mini, I would upgrade the Hellla e-code headlights with IPF H4 LED bulbs. Not cheap though...

You should get those awful auto hubs off there ASAP. They will leave you stranded. There are quite a few pages out on the Interwebs that show you how to do this, but basically besides a set of AISIN hubs you need the big 55mm axle nuts and a star gasket for each side. You can do the conversion pretty quickly, depending on how hard the old cone washers are to get removed. There are no vacuum lines in this setup, you are thinking of the ADD setup that came out in the next generation.

I would not mess with Warn hubs. The AISIN hubs aren't hard to find used.
 
What's up ya'll?

I just replaced all my vacuum lines from the intake and the coolant lines along with a new throttle body position sensor and now wondering if my idle is off. It took a few guesses where it should be set at but now it has a steady idle around 1.1 RPMS but should it be sub 1 more like .9 ???????

Love to hear what everyone idles at and if you think mine might be a bit high. Feels high and sounds high

It's the 22re
 
Idle should be at 650-700 when fully warmed up. Like others, I was never able to get mine to a consistent idle, despite trying everything I could think of. Sometimes it was 1100-1200, then it would be at 700, and then sometimes it would barely stay running. I just lived with it.
 
Mine is pretty steady at around 750-800.
 
Thanks everyone. Anyone have suggestions on lowering the idle? 1 or 2 RPMS?

Seems i can manual hold it lower but unsure if it's the action (spring) has lots it's extensions or if I need to adjust the stop point (the Screw with the nut on it)

Let me know guys - Thanks
 
Idle adjustment screw in red. This is a newer throttle body, but the idea is the same.
throttle body.jpg
 
Also, since you replaced the TPS, short out the test connector and make sure the idle drops.
 
Thanks for the great intel. I'll start to work on the Idle adjust today. Can you please explain "Short out the connector and make sure the idle drops"?

Most likely makes sense just to confirm.
 
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