80s Front Diff Removal (1 Viewer)

[Mario12345]

can someone walk me through a font diff removal because i took out both axles disconnected driveshaft removed crush nut on pinion also removed all of the boths that hold it on and even tried jacking it uo to break it off yet it still wont come off..... does anyone have a video or know of a video i can watch, i feel as if im missing something on the side with the locker sensor on it because the opposite side is spread from the front end but the side with the locker isnt............... i am beyond lost PLEASE HELP

 

[george_tlc]

You did follow step #1 in the FSM? Probably an important step...

cheers,
george.

 

[Mario12345]

View attachment 1462544
You did follow step #1 in the FSM? Probably an important step...

cheers,
george.

i actually didnt but now explain how that can affect it from comming out ?

 

[richardlillard1]

Because it doesn't fit through the hole otherwise.

 

[ccslider]

Yup.. the locker collar needs to be in the locked position which goes into the diff and is no longer sticking out to hit the housing.

Just try plugging it back in and locking it.. you may need to put an axle back in and turn it until it locks.
The diff will pop right out

 

[SuperDuperCruizer]

Not the same truck or axle but the concept is the same. Here's a shot of the cable locker's fork to engage the diff. It needed to be locked in order to clear the opening. It's the same scenario for removal.

 

[Mario12345]

She's not locking up

 

[Mario12345]

Yup.. the locker collar needs to be in the locked position which goes into the diff and is no longer sticking out to hit the housing.

Just try plugging it back in and locking it.. you may need to put an axle back in and turn it until it locks.
The diff will pop right out

Yea she's not locking up ..... fxxx man there's nothing here that I need to take off ?

 

[richardlillard1]

You need to lock it up. Put a birf back in one side and turn until it locks.

EDIT: when you turned the switch to try and lock it, did you have the center diff engaged either via switch on the dash (if you've installed one) or by putting the truck in low range with the key in the on position? The diff won't lock if the center isn't locked first.

 

[Mario12345]

Yes I locked the center diff and then heard it lock but it still wasn't coming out. Everything is loose besides that side by the diff mechanism

 

[inkpot]

Did you rotate the diff so the teeth can fully engage?

 

[Mario12345]

Yes I put the cv back in and spun it on both sides for like 20 mins
Forward and backwards

 

[Mario12345]

Not the same truck or axle but the concept is the same. Here's a shot of the cable locker's fork to engage the diff. It needed to be locked in order to clear the opening. It's the same scenario for removal.

View attachment 1462585

Where those 2 wholes on the far left bults from the opposite side ? Because I feel like on mine there's bults there that I can't get

 

[subzali]

That last post was not very clear, so that's certainly not helping. I'm not an expert, but I think you can pull the two bolts holding the actuator position indicator and manually slide the collar to lock the axle, and then you should be able to remove the diff. Or put it back together and just start over by doing what george_tlc mentioned above.

 

[cc93cruiser]

^this

 

[Pin_Head]

It isn't clear from your description whether the problem is that the carrier housing is still stuck to the axle housing or if it is loose and you can't get it out because the locking collar is not retracted. If the carrier housing is still stuck, put more pressure on it and whack it with a mallet. If it is loose and the locker fork is holding it up, remove the locking mechanism and manually push the for into engagement.

Bad call on removing the pinion nut. You need to read the FSM before doing stuff that is counter productive.

 

[SuperDuperCruizer]

The picture I posted is a cable locking differential and to support @Pin_Head 's comment about the mallet... I used a rubber mallet to knock the lever into position. Just giving you a reference of force I've applied to get it to engage. I've been able to get it to engage and disengage by hand sometimes, but a rubber mallet was ready if it was being stubborn. The differential may need rotating for the cog to align into place. I rotated the pinion flange to get it to align (the part you have removed that bolts to the driveshaft).

I'm not suggesting you perform this conversion, but the pictures may be useful. I believe there's a few tech write-ups for converting an electric locker like yours into an air locker or cable locker. There's a vendor offering a conversion kit with pictures that may be helpful. The servo motor can be removed as suggested above to allow access to the shift fork.

E-Locker | Chilkat Designs

 

[ccslider]

Removed the pinion nut?! Yikes Now you will have to replace the crush sleeve. Please do yourself a favor and get help for that or you will blow your ring and pinion gears up.

 

[jaymar]

Removed the pinion nut?! Yikes Now you will have to replace the crush sleeve. Please do yourself a favor and get help for that or you will blow your ring and pinion gears up.

 

[jaymar]

Ah, what unexpected perils lie in wait for the uninitiated…