80s Front Diff Removal

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I just noticed but it looks like they're still a Bolt in above the actuator...

Are you sure you removed the bolt that's right above the stud on the right?
 
Removed the pinion nut?! Yikes Now you will have to replace the crush sleeve. Please do yourself a favor and get help for that or you will blow your ring and pinion gears up.
i had to remove crush nut anyway because im changing all of the bearings inside >>>>>>........ no?
 
I just noticed but it looks like they're still a Bolt in above the actuator...

Are you sure you removed the bolt that's right above the stud on the right?
no im not sure thats why im posting this i thought i removed everything but i feel as if im missing one because that side with the actuator is not loose but i havent noticed a bolt..... can you circle the spot your talking about and post a picture ?
 
i had to remove crush nut anyway because im changing all of the bearings inside >>>>>>........ no?

Ok yes no worries then!

Also my mostake, it's not a bolt. It's a stud just like the lower one.
Your picture is really hard to see..

I would follow the instructions above about manual locking it.

If you do a quick Google search you can find the fsm for a 96
 
I just noticed but it looks like they're still a Bolt in above the actuator...

Are you sure you removed the bolt that's right above the stud on the right?
just checked again from picture and that bolt was just a bracket bolt for a line that running over the axle housing but i do feel as if im missing a bolt on that side... im about to pull the whole actuator off ? or would that be stupid >?
 
I would pull it off and manually shift it like the others suggested.
 
Yea I'm gonna look for the fsm pull of the actuator and see if it will come out then this is my first time tackling something like this not gonna lie
Re-hashing an old thread as I'm about to pull my diff out to rebuild it and the diff lock actuator as the actuator isn't working. Did you manual lock the diff by removing the indicator? Any advice or tricks?
 
The front locker does not have to be locked before disassembly. Only the rear locker needs to be engaged to keep the locking collar in place before removing the axles. There are ways to manually lock by removing the actuator and ways to get the collar repositioned before reassembly if necessary. Just makes things easier to lock the rear if everything is working beforehand.
 
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