Thanks for the info! That's some seriously clean work, if I could make mine look half as good I'd be thrilled. I've got to get my old finger brake tuned up so it will make clean bends. Definitely want to keep away from a bolt together housing as well, I much prefer some simple over center latches for easy servicing.
Just to keep it simple, I got rid of the fuel shut off solenoid and rigged up a generic choke cable to work like an engine shut off cable like in my tractor, it just moves the lever on the injector pump back and forward.
I've got it sitting roughly where I reckon it should end up, real close to the firewall. the sway bar doesn't fit any more so ill have to work some thing out there. But its looking like the diff and the tie rod might just clear the sump, I still need to take the springs out and make sure but its looking good.
The springs compressed 75mm when I let the weight of the Cummins rest on the mounts. Its a shame I didn't measure how it sat with the Toyota diesel
Its looking like I might not have the space to run the engine driven fan, but ill definitely try to make it happen.
I packed the cab up 50mm to make a bit more space, I didn't really want to make it any taller but I don't think it would have fit if I hadn't.
How it sat before and after with no engine.
Before.
Engine mounts, I'm using the factory mounts on the chassis and factory isolators.
I Mocked up some temporary mounts that fit up to the Cummins by just cutting up the Toyota cast iron brackets and welding them to a bit of plate. Ill fabricate permanent ones once I'm sure I wont run into any issues with where the engine sits.
Because nickel arc rods for welding cast iron cost an arm and a leg I didn't waste any on these temporary mounts, so I used general purpose rods and surprisingly it didn't give me any trouble. Just peening the weld was enough to stop anything cracking.
Cheers
The gearbox crossmember,
I was able to shimmy the engine back a fair bit from where I first had it which makes every thing clear the sump, but it means I almost miss the crossmember, this was my solution.
I used the gearbox mount from the dodge.
And having shuffled the engine around I don't have a problem with the sway bar not fitting any more
Power steering,
The last order I made with rock auto I saw they had diesel dodge ram power steering feed hoses on special for something like $8, so I got one in case I might need the fittings. My plan was to use the fittings off the dodge donor truck, but the hose from rock auto was a far better fit (Being for a LHD truck). So I was able to use the factory Toyota high pressure power steering line and just weld on the end from the dodge hose. It wouldn't have been tidier if I'd planned it.
I was surprised to find the fuel line from the tank on the 80 series was bigger than on the dodge (Toyota 12mm(1/2") - Dodge 3/8")
So I welded a 1/2" hose tail on the fitting that bolts up to the cummins fuel primer, just to save a trip into town.
I'm not sure how I'm gunna do it yet, but I certainly want to keep the toyota water separator in the fuel system. I've never had the water in fuel light come on in any of my cruisers, but it would be a bit silly to not make it work considering the lights already wired into the dash. I want to keep the cummins fuel filter mount because it uses banjo fittings and not hose tails like the toyota one... Ill work something out
Cheers
Adapting to the vacuum pump was as simple as welding a 1/2" hose tail on the existing line.
I might have snookered myself with the clutch cylinder, but there is room under the turbo so I think its just a matter of altering the exhaust manifold.
The throttle cable,
Would be far easier in a LHD truck, the RHD dodge had the cable tuck behind the brake booster to a pivoting arm connected directly to the pedal. I don't have the room to do this on the 80 series and I don't want the throttle cable to S all the way around the engine bay so I mocked up this,
So the cable from the dodge that fixes to the injector pump can go back around the engine to some where on the drivers side where it meets up with a shortened toyota throttle cable.
I will tidy this up and have the correct length cable made (the one to the pedal) once I know exactly where it will end up.
The Toyota radiator was due for replacement it was slowly seeping coolant around the top tank.
I didn't want a radiator with plastic tanks, I was looking into a Terrain tamer aluminium radiator but because I was probably gunna have to modify brackets to make it work I ended up getting a generic chev style radiator. 29" x 19"
The inlet port was too small so I cut it off and welded on a 1 3/4" spigot I had stashed away.
And sorted out some mounts for it
Fits mint, with plenty of room for the fan
Adapting the toyota water temp sender to the cummins. I'm using a port in the back of the block where the coolant is probably hottest, I'm guessing the thread is probably 3/4" NPT but a 3/4" BSP brass bung threads in no worries.
Drilled and tapped an M14 x 2 hole in the bung to fit the toyota sensor
And its in a similar place as the toyota diesel so I wont have to alter the loom.
The intercooler,
There was no way I could have fit ducting down to a front mount intercooler so it had to be a top mount and because I don't want a bonnet scoop, I went with a water to air intercooler. To make room for this I moved the turbo down (which I had to do anyway to make clearance for the exhaust)
The hot rod parts shop only had one 3" bend in stock, instead of waiting I made a lobster back.
I've got a little radiator from a quad bike that fits nicely where the trans cooler use to be, for the intercooler coolant.
Cheers
