In anticipation of getting the Cummins 80 series road legal. I'm writing up a listing for my spare 80 series, which I still use every day. Does this frame number suggest this was the 26th 80 series built?
I've driven a lot of 80 series's , this is the only one I've seen with manual windows, and a dash like a early 90s Hilux
Having indexed the turbo I had to make a bracket for the waste gate actuator. My first plan was to weld some lugs on the compressor housing, copying the lugs cast into the housing that it originally fixed to. But decided not to risk it warping and giving me trouble.
The radiator hoses where easy as,
The top hose is the top hose from the Dodge, shortened and spliced into a generic 1 3/4" 90 deg bend. The Dodge had a 5/16" hose bypassing the thermostat, which I've copied in the 80 series with an 8mm hose tail welded into the top hose jointer spigot.
Using off cuts from my 20mm ally plate, I made a bracket to tie my thermostat housing back to my AC pump bracket.
The bottom hose is just a generic 1 3/4" 45 deg bend, but I did need to modify the inlet spigot on my AC pump bracket. And angle the out let spigot on the radiator
The Drive shafts,
the transfer case is 20mm further back than it was originally, the front shaft I've left alone because there is still a good 70mm of splines still engaging, which I reckon is plenty
The rear shaft I've shortened 20mm
I've shortened a few drive shafts for bush trucks but never on road vehicles, will be interesting to see if I need to get this rebalanced.
Cheers
The exhaust is underway,
I'm looking for an exhaust brake butterfly but I'm starting to think by the time I find one that doesn't cost an arm and a leg I could have built my own.
I flared a 2.5" V band flange (which fits up to the turbo) out to 3" for the first bend, then flared out to 3.5"
I had to sacrifice the high idle knob for the engine shut off, which is a bit of a shame because this one actually worked. But there wasn't really any where else for it
I'm purge welding the exhaust for a bit of extra strength, which still seems a bit over kill to me, its a land cruiser not a dairy factory. But it will hopefully never crack.
Got winched onto the trailer about a month and a half ago with the cummins resting on blocks of timber, Just drove off under its own power.
I'm certainly no auto sparky but I've got it starting with the key, after finally getting my head around bypassing the 24 volt switch over starting system. It took a couple of a hours staring at wiring diagrams.
Adapting the toyota oil pressure sensor to the cummins,
I just welded a 1/8" BSP hex socket to a 1/8" NPT weld nipple.
This is the dodge oil pressure sensor, you cant really tell from the photo but its way smaller than the toyota one, and toyota sensor doesn't fit here between the big inline injector pump and the power steering reservoir, which is a bugger because the factory wiring would have
reached.
So I had to use the port on the oil cooler housing.
The radiator for the water to air intercooler, I ended up using a radiator from a 250cc Kawasaki road bike.
I'm using a little 12v water pump which I've mounted on the inside of the bumper. Rather than tap into accessory power to power it I've used the plug for the fuel heater (which this truck never had), which only gets 12 volts when the key is in the on position so it wont waste any battery power when I've got the engine off and the key on acc for the radio.
Cheers
