80 Series Tow Wagon

[Alexh85]

I've got a rough idea in my head of how I'm gunna run the intake ducting, so I've drawn up and tacked up a stainless air box that will hopefully work with my plan. I've used an air filter from a Holden Commodore which might be a touch small but will do the job.

I'm probably gunna use stainless toggle latches to fix the 2 parts together but ill wait till I'm mounting it in the vehicle so I can make sure they are easy to get to.

Proper old school sheet metal work, none of that CAD bullsh*t.

 

[Alexh85]

I took the front cover off the Cummins, who ever was in here last was on to it, and sorted out the pin that can rattle out.

Cheers

 

[Malleus]

That's the Achille's heel of that engine, otherwise it's stout.

 

[Alexh85]

It took a bit of asking around, but I found a machine shop that is able to cut the Toyota splines in the Dodge output shaft without having to annealing it.

Legend.

 

[Alexh85]

 

[Alexh85]

Nothings ever easy,
the 80 series is still in use with the toyota engine, the other day one of the blanked off coolant hoses that use to go to the auto cold start device on the injector pump split, even though it was replaced about a year ago. luckily I had a spare onboard so it didn't cost me too much down time, the next day the starter motor solenoid sh*t the bed, possibly because of the coolant that leaked onto it. Having replaced that it now wont crank for a suspected blown fusible link. Fu*k sake I need to hurry up and stab this cummins in.
Any who, the gearbox rebuild is almost finished, will be nice to have the space back in the kitchen.

Lucky I bought a spare one.

Cheers

 

[Alexh85]

Learnt a new trick talking to a gearbox repair man. Rather than relying on a dial gauge to set up end lash, crush a few bits of solder in place of the shim to more accurately measure what thickness shim is needed.

My home made special tool held together just long enough to do up the 5th gear nut, turns out 300 ft lbs is when a square hole in 6mm mild steel turns into a round one.

Cheers

 

[thatcabledude]

Nothings ever easy,
the 80 series is still in use with the toyota engine, the other day one of the blanked off coolant hoses that use to go to the auto cold start device on the injector pump split, even though it was replaced about a year ago. luckily I had a spare onboard so it didn't cost me too much down time, the next day the starter motor solenoid sh*t the bed, possibly because of the coolant that leaked onto it. Having replaced that it now wont crank for a suspected blown fusible link. Fu*k sake I need to hurry up and stab this cummins in.
Any who, the gearbox rebuild is almost finished, will be nice to have the space back in the kitchen.

View attachment 4062512
Lucky I bought a spare one.
View attachment 4062513

Cheers

That’s an interesting trailer and an interesting generator thing you have there.

 

[Alexh85]

That’s an interesting trailer and an interesting generator thing you have there.

I built it like that so my mates with cars don't ask to borrow it. Haha

]4WD Transporter Build - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/4wd-transporter-build.1144380/

The generator works mint for running winches, and its a wicked fast battery charger.

Cheers

 

[Alexh85]

I could do with some advice. Genuine Cummins Vs after market

I had a local truck parts supplier price up a genuine Cummins water pump, thermostat and rubber seals for my 6BT. He reckons these parts will have to come from several different countries around the world, and I'm still waiting for the price.

Or I could go to rock auto and have every thing shipped to me from half way around the world in less than a week for (probably) half the price.
That being said, I've got a mate whos an apprentice diesel mechanic at cummins nz who owes me a few favors. I should probably hit him up.

Cheers

 

[Alexh85]

Make a bit more progress, fitted the adaptor plate up to the transfer case.

Skill saw cuts aren't as pretty as CNC machining, but its a way cheaper.

And everything fits!

Cheers

 

[baldilocks]

When I replaced my original water pump at 200k as preventive maintenance I went with a Gates brand pump on the advice of the experienced folks at Geno’s Garage here in Georgia. All they do is service and sell parts for Dodge/Cummins trucks. 50k miles later no problems. The original wasn’t Cummins, either, it was Centric brand out of England. The bearing in the Gates pump was at least 50% larger. Same with the idler pulley.

 

[Izeloz]

I'd just get the water pump that was easiest and quickest for you to get. It takes 15 minutes to replace a water pump in the 6BT, and that's counting a snack and drink break (step 6), so even if it gives you issues, it's super easy to change. I've done a couple for customers in the parking lot (when I worked at a parts store).

 

[Alexh85]

I want rid of the centre diff lock actuator, I saw a thread on here how someone used a pneumatic actuator to lock the centre diff, I like the idea but decided if I'm gunna rely on compressed air I don't want an electric compressor, I want a mechanical one that either runs off the Cummins or a pto on the NV4500, I didn't have any luck finding either, so I ended up welding a bit of round bar onto the end of the gear that use to be driven by the actuator (I used an MG600 equivalent wire, so I'm confident it will never fail) , it only needs to turn about 90 degrees to lock and unlock the diff so I can have a lever to lock the centre diff and another one for high and low range, I've got another hi lo selector arm off a mates knackered transfer case, I obviously still need to fit this to the rod and trim it down to length

Only issue I can see having is the diff lock slipping out because there is no detent, my plan is to build a lever with detent notches to hopefully prevent this.

I'm still keen on a mechanical compressor if anyone knows where I should look

Cheers

 

[baldilocks]

Seems it would be simpler in design and functionality if you actuated it manually.

 

[Alexh85]

I want as few electrics as possible.

 

[Alexh85]

The jobs dragging on more than id like but I am making progress, I know if I don't mount up an A/C pump now it might never happen. Again I'm too tight to buy a high mount a/c pump kit, so I'm making my own. I sliced another strip off the 20mm ally I bought to make the adaptor plate.

I'm using the alternator from the 1hdft, The 8 rib pulley from the cummins alternator bolted right up to it.

I liked how the clutch worked in the dodge. And I learnt my lesson mucking around with different size clutch cylinders in my LS powered 70 series. So I want to use the same bore clutch master cylinder as the dodge (7/8") but using parts common in new zealand. I ended up with a clutch cylinder from a mitsubishi canter (which is a small commercial truck) I found an 80 series clutch pedal and bracket at a wrecker, and it was bugger all to adapt it to accept the mitsubishi master cylinder, I only had to relocate one of the studs.
Ill post pictures once I've sorted out the reservoir

Cheers

 

[Alexh85]

The legends at the parts shop were real patient with me, ordering in the wrong length belt twice before I got it right.
You wouldn't think measuring a bit of string would be so difficult

Ended up being 8PK2065.

Cheers

 

[AirheadNut]

I've got a rough idea in my head of how I'm gunna run the intake ducting, so I've drawn up and tacked up a stainless air box that will hopefully work with my plan. I've used an air filter from a Holden Commodore which might be a touch small but will do the job.View attachment 4008652

View attachment 4008655

View attachment 4008656

View attachment 4008658

I'm probably gunna use stainless toggle latches to fix the 2 parts together but ill wait till I'm mounting it in the vehicle so I can make sure they are easy to get to.

View attachment 4008659

Proper old school sheet metal work, none of that CAD bullsh*t.

Love your air filter design, I'm looking at making something very similar for my current swap project and had a couple of questions about yours.

It looks like the lower half uses a hem or maybe a wire hem to seal against the filter, is that correct?

Have you had a chance to add the toggle latches yet? Still trying to figure out how to fasten the two halves together. This is a rough idea of my design, will have to modify it some to make the filter fit the way I want it to. I'm by no means an expert with sheet metal, will probably be using aluminum.

 

[Alexh85]

Yea mate, its a hemmed edge on the bottom part crushed back on its self. If your using aluminum make sure you use a nice soft grade that wont crack, 5052 is usually alright but 5005 wont give you any trouble when you crush it flat.

Nah I haven't mounted up any latches yet, but ill probably do something similar to what I did on my 70 series

and on the edges I don't have the depth ill probably use latches like these.

I've seen some quite tidy custom air boxes some one in aussie makes, they use a 200 series filter and the 2 parts bolt together, they might be worth looking at. But I don't want to need any tools to change an air filter

Cheers